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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.
Yeah +1 more. I could not be happier with the work Les did to my 610.
So, after a season of setting up and getting to know my 610 through various single and multi-day rides, I decided to get the big Safari tank, as I found myself always hunting for the next gas stop (and having issues with many of these small town places not having any...)
It showed up yesterday! (Sorry no pic's yet.)
I'm probably a couple of weeks out on getting this installed, but I was wondering if the in-the-tank foam products would be beneficial with this much fuel sloshing around? Anyone use this stuff? They seem to sell it in various sizes / volumes - how much would the 6.6 gal tank need? Also seems kinda spendy for small bits of foam....
I have run G-Zero foam blocks in my 5 gallon IMS tanks for 5 years.
Absolutely worth it. Last forever. No break down or clogging of filters. No loss in volume and no sloshing!
Thanks! Seems per the reviews of this stuff it would be beneficial. Any issues of these blocks around the fuel pump to be concerned with?
I haven't got my TE610 all sorted out because of subframe repair. I haven't ridden it to see how much the leak is a problem. I have a question about the tank vent. I have a 2006 and I have read many complaints about weeping fuel when overfilled. One solution was an aftermarket fuel cap with the vent installed up high. I was wondering if my idea would work. To install one of these vent valves to the original vent fitting on a hose located high on the handlebars above the level of the tank.
I have searched but have only found where one person might try this approach but no feedback. This should work shouldn't it? It shouldn't be any different than attaching it to the cap should it?
First ride today
Boy is thing going to be fun
I got tired of filling my tank and having a cup of gas drool all over my 07 so I put these on the tank vent nipples.
I routed them forward and up to the bars where I have them clipped to the front brake hose. Pretty much the same thing as you're talking about, but with slightly different implementation.
Thanks for the reply and info. I still think that I will use one of those stubby aluminum vent valves ran up high hidden behind the fairing.
Here's a little more on the Zstart Pro in 2009 TE610. I LOVE THIS THING!!!!
Sorry I haven't replied sooner. I love the thing! Just ran a long DualSport, and Rekluse made a tremendous difference. I was able to keep all four fingers of left hand on the bars. Lots of square edged roots, ruts, etc. Now that the parts have worn in, the engagement is a little diffferent. My idle is about 1450 normal temp, and the bike will stand still, but as soon as it reads 1500, it is trying to move. This gives engine braking just like stock with the clutch lever out. During the DS event, 80degrees outside, engine was significantly hotter, and idle was closer to 1800; therefore it was very hard to find neutral. Not a big deal as the bike will crank in gear if you pull the clutch in. I geared down for the event 14t front 47t rear (stock is 15-45). With all the 610's engine braking, and gearing that low, the throttle is very touchy in first. A slight roll off is like grabbing the brake, and slight roll-on lunges the bike forward. It's just too much of a seesaw effect, and made it nearly impossible to get a "flow" going in the tight woods. (rather exhausting) Late in day, I quit first gear, left it in second and let the Rekluse apply power to the rear. Even when I locked the rear, and had to stop to negotiate a turn or ditch, I left it in second gear. I'll open the case this week and measure plate end gap to see if I wore much clutch material, but I did check the clutch lever end play at 4000RPM (part of setup), and it hadn't changed. I am going to change the springs again to get a higher engagement RPM. My goal is to get a little less engine braking. An old Enduro rider who's had autoclutches for years said he sets up for near freewheeling at zero throttle, and just uses the rear brake. I like a little engine braking, but his idea has merit. If this was a 250, or maybe a two stroke engine, I would probably set up for complete clutch disengagement to somewhere just above idle, and mount a left hand rear brake.
In summary, I cannot think of a good reason why you would NOT want the Rekluse Z-start Pro on a TE610. You still keep all your friction disks, and if you want to use the clucth lever, it's there (but 80% lighter to pull). I'm still running the C200L5 and C150L2. I'll be testing the C200L6 next.
Who makes the cool bling brake pedal end?
And thanks StolenFant for the writeup.
StolenFant, if you are still engaging where you were, your gap should be close to what it was. You might think about dragging the rear brake to smooth things out in the tight stuff. Maybe a LHRB too.
I can think of two, $650 cost and it requires fairly regular adjustments and tweaking to keep it working in top shape. It is not a set it and forget it setup. But still a very tempting addition, especially when installed with a LHRB.
Xymotic, I do need to drop the rear brake pedal some how. I've heard a part from the Honda XR650 has a lower profile clevis that allows this, but haven't confirmed yet. Right now I can't ride with foot over it at present.
Xcuvator, Since the TE doesn't have a cush hub I want you keep the clutch lever for asphalt for my occasional commutes plus all that engine braking really scrubs knobs off the rear fast.
Silver bullet, I'm hoping it won't take much adjustment once I settle on spring configuration. I may even add three Tungsten balls for harder engagement if I move the engagement much higher. The motor didn't have any issues pulling from 1500 in sand, but I do fear a much higher engagement would allow the motor to over work the clutch. I'll keep y'all posted.
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Brake pedal mod with Honda clevis detailed in Husky Cafe - I did mine with the standard one, also there. You shorten the plunger rod slightly and I removed the top nut above the clevis... read here:
Here is a tip: Grind off the stock rivet on the brake pedal tip and replace it with a countersunk bolt (head facing the clutch) and nylock nut. This lessens the sharp contact against your clutch cover and also makes replacing the tip easier also. I use a KTM replacement brake tip.
Thanks for the ideas on the brake guys. the vise grip is getting old :)
Sorry did not see this thread or els i may of put my frist post hear. So hello to you all, i live in the UK down in Cornwall, I have a 2006 Gas GAS 300 a 2012 990 ADV and have just got hold of a 2000 TE 610 with very low miles on the clock. and i come back from my frist ride with the biggest of smiles, WOW what a super bike, may go as far to say its the best bike i have rode, me being only 5,6 and 10 stone the bike is a good fit and i can get both feet to the ground!. how ever i would like to know if any one as put Renthal fat bars on the bike and would recomend doing so, my bars on my enduro bike are about 1 or 2 inches longer so i guss i am used to them, I will be doing technical trails with the bike and road work.
With these guys
The 610 was amazing! I only fell once and didn't get stuck at all! We went through, up, over some crazy stuff and I was blown away at how the 610 just went and went! No studs and tires I would have likely changed by now if it was summer time. The 4x4 quads broke through some bogs covered in ice exposing stuff that would make most including myself think twice about, but I was able to power through no problem. The only bad thing was I didn't charge the battery in the liquid image googles, so no vids this time.
Having some fun on my new scoot.
Cant wait for some free time and warmer weather to get this baby out in some open country
Wow all these riding pics. I am jonesing. Home renovations have kept me too busy to finish cutting the metal gussets for my subframe repair. I can't wait to be done.