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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.
Ah, makes sense. Thanks to all you guys who help us noobs along....
ok, cool! It just slides out the clutch side when you take off the circlip?
I do have an oil leak, but I "think" it's the crack in the stator cover where its been hitting. Either way I need to fix it.
anyone know of a decent aftermarket replacement for the shifter itself?
Yup - found mine broken at about 30,000 km
Did it develop a little gap or was it just a hairline crack?
There isn't a circlip on my 07, they should all be the same.
I wish I could help with alternate shifters..............but I can't.
I epoxied a couple of quarter/50cent size pieces of sturdy neopreme along
the back edge of the stator cover where the shifter head travels and it has really protected the cases.
Even though I beveled down the shifter edge, my boots tend to push in on the shifter during panic down shifts and the head scrapes along those neopreme home made buffers.........or I'd have scrape cracks in my cover also........at 1500 miles.
I might be mistaken but I think the Husky is somewhat reversed from many other bikes.
The "rebound" damper adjustments are on the top of the forks........08-09s
and the "compression" adjusters are on the bottom......on 06-07s.......along
with "rebound" adjusters up top .
Surely correct me if I'm wrong.
For a loose shifter lever fit over the splined shaft, the shaft splines are likely fine. The shifter metal is typically softer steel and has a lot of leverage applied to it, not to mention ground contact and probably was never truly tightened that well to start with.
I would look at some way to do an very thin insert, either a liquid metal or super thin material that will deform and fill the gap a bit. My traditional option is to ensure there is plenty of gap in the squeeze area, making it larger if needed (dremel wheel, hack saw, or file), and use a better clamp bolt, such as a 12.9 grade socket head and then get a good clamp force and fit again.
It was called a beer can fix when I was younger. The 1970's Honda Elsinore's and Suzuki TM's were notorious for stripping the shifter and kick starter threads. Beer can because back then Coke cans were steel, but beer cans wetter very thin malleable aluminum. A little filing and a through bolt/nut was often required to get sufficient clamping force.
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Haha,, yeah, brought back some memories for sure!
Be sure to clean the lever clamp threads with a tap use a high-strength bolt. When I got my bike at less than 1k miles, the bolt (don't know if it was the original) was low grade and the threads were rounded. The lever was slightly loose and couldn't be tightened. A nice 12.9 as mentioned above will allow greater torque without thread damage and eventual loosening. I used an ARP stainless flange-head bolt.
Just got my 2007 TE610 delivered. I purchased it with 2100 miles on the odo from a fellow inmate in Michigan and it took about a week to get it shipped here...but it's here in all its glory!! :)
I swear it looks like a new bike sitting there in my garage. I am already going through it with a fine tooth comb and looking for fun places to farkle (did my first mod the first morning I got it, a pigtail for the Battery Tender. :) I haven't rejetted yet for Colorado, though a JD kit came with the bike and I think I've figured out what I need to do to swap it out for high altitude (the kit was installed for Michigan air pressures, but I'm not sure if the leak jet was replaced at the time or how to tell once I get in there. if anyone has insights to that I'd love to hear them.).
Looks like I have about 1700 pages of this thread to catch up on. :) Is there a TE610 FAQ anywhere?
I'm gonna spring for a new rear D606 and install a rim lock & then balance the tire. Good plan I think.
Have not really messed with changing pressure below 25psi for off road riding - (I'm about 50/50 road/dirt). What do you use to air up for the slab after dirt?
Thoughts on pressures - know its a personal preference/tire deal but how low do you guys go front/rear?
Also................I can make an argument in my mind for a rimlock on the front - wadya think? :huh
Well I use a Perelli MT43 on the rear - 20 to 25 lbs on the road and 8 to 10 lbs off road - amazing traction - much better then D606 at least here in S. AZ.
Front is a Perelli 21 - leave at 20 lbs on and off road - used to air it down but got too many flats - with pinches.
How do you air up on the fly?
D606 rear has been a pretty good compromise for me and the local moto shop generally will match or beat the interweb. I prefer to give them my $.
I've got the MT43's on both front and rear. Keep them at about 16-18 psi for both road and FS gravel type roads. No issues with traction and like the previous poster, I have a concern for pinch flats from rocks on the front.
I'll make a comment on these tires, they do run very well on the road (been into low triple digits) with no issues. They are balanced, which helps with that, but I've been impressed. I'll probably switch to a different front when the time comes though.
MT-43's have a very stiff sidewall. They will run with almost no air. I'd be surprised at a pinch flat with 8-10 psi on the front wheel.
Hey guys, I'm not sure if this has been covered before but today I went out for a little ride. When I left my house, all was good with the bike, when I got back home my tail light was missing. The license plate bracket was still attached. Funny thing was that I didn't stop once, so it must have fallen off while I was riding. My guess is that the fasteners that held it on vibrated out.
So anyway, has anything like this happened to any of you? Or has anybody replaced the OEM light with a LED one, if so which one?
I use a little 12 volt air compressor - I think it made by slime. It is very small and quick.
The stock one? I didnt get 1k miles before that POS cracked in half and fell to pieces. Not just the tail light,, the whole assembly went into the trash.