Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. Finnyfire

    Finnyfire Jedi Master

    Joined:
    Nov 27, 2013
    Oddometer:
    202
    Location:
    Big sky country
    08CB9EF3-4E26-4995-B5DD-D16DB0D40B21.JPG 904BA3EA-8637-4FFF-AE0D-5C8AAAD7154B.JPG 591F3312-7F26-469C-9501-F5C0D53E7D88.JPG Sorry about the glare. The little piece between the screen and computer is just to firm up everything. Seems to work great. I need a better light now.
    CO-or-bust and BLucare like this.
  2. RonSJC

    RonSJC Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    SoCal
    Anyone know where I can source a Right Hand petcock for an '06 or '07 TE610?

    Thanks!
  3. Tobz

    Tobz Ne'er-du-well

    Joined:
    May 12, 2009
    Oddometer:
    595
    Location:
    WI
    I use a KTM petcock on mine. Requires a fuel line T but eliminates the wiring that always leaks and as a bonus you get an actual reserve. They're much less $ than the Husky part. For the test fit I stole the petcock off my 09 300 XC-W so that's a good application to search by.

    Screenshot_2017-09-30-08-02-00.png
  4. RonSJC

    RonSJC Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2012
    Oddometer:
    658
    Location:
    SoCal
    Thanks!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  5. Chickenasana

    Chickenasana .,;,.,;,.,;,.

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    28
    OK, finally changed out Shadynasty's clutch springs & washers. Just over 4k miles. Though I did my best to clean up sharp edges (on the springs for instance), I know some shavings will come out of this spring & washer change so I'll change oil & look for debris after I put on some miles. So I decided to lay it on its side so I could keep the existing oil:
    20170926_091127.jpg
    Removed clutch guts & laid em out so I would remember how to put them back:
    20170926_104240.jpg
    Once I removed the rivets and practiced hammering one of the spare rivets down I gained some confidence. The rivets are mild steel, considering how fat they are, they're easy to smash down with a hammer & punch. Look at the original rivets--there's not much meat to them on the flattened side:
    20170927_140303.jpg
    The old springs moved around a bit, and there was some marring caused by the springs. I filed these over a bit. Here is before I did that:
    20170926_184350.jpg
  6. Chickenasana

    Chickenasana .,;,.,;,.,;,.

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    28
    Another shot showing damage from springs:
    20170926_181817.jpg
    The springs were somewhat marred up as well, so I replaced them. I had to file the sharp edges at the ends. I also had to use a fine round file to prep them for Bertie's replacement washers. Here, from left to right, you can see one of my cracked washers from the bike, an OEM replacement washer, and one of Bertie's washers:
    20170926_185647.jpg
    After replacing the springs and washers, I made a rough tool with plywood and aluminum round stock to hammer the rivets:
    20170927_100201.jpg
    20170927_082211.jpg
    Only thing that made this repair difficult is the dread I felt about dealing with the rivets. But with some prep, it turned out to be easy enough.
    Tobz likes this.
  7. Chickenasana

    Chickenasana .,;,.,;,.,;,.

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    28
    Though I love Shadynasty when she's working, I must say I haven't felt a sense of ease owning this Husky. I was stoked to have the recommended preventative maintenance behind me. Then I went on a ride, and after coming home I noticed something strange about the shock: it wiggles a bit. For a moment I thought the bolts may have worked loose (although they were well torqued, and I did apply loctite). The bolts are still tight, so my question for this community is, do you see lateral (twisting) movement in your shock at the pivot point? In other words, is this part of the design, or am I seeing slop in the pivots that needs to be addressed ASAP?

    Here are some GIFs to give you a sense of what I'm worrying about:
    MS_2017-10-06_09-23-00.gif
    MS_2017-10-06_09-23-35.gif
    MS_2017-10-06_09-23-50.gif

    I would love to be able to get past the mechanical issues and just ride this bike...
  8. 1 wheel peel

    1 wheel peel Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    East Texas
    Good job with the pictorial. I'm at work and the bikes at home but it looks like slop to me.:dunno
  9. Lutz

    Lutz Fuzzy Rabbit

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2010
    Oddometer:
    2,474
    Location:
    North Shore of Lake Superior
    I don't have one of these bikes, but...
    Top shock bearing is likely a spherical bearing, and if so that's normal movement. Bottom bearing is likely a needle bearing, and that would not be normal movement.

    More importantly than the twisting play, is there any up-and-down play in either end? If so, replace.
  10. BLucare

    BLucare Ambitious, but rubbish

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2016
    Oddometer:
    304
    Location:
    Milwaukee-ish, Wisconsin, United States
    Good work! I'm curious: What made you want to replace the springs and washers? Debris in the oil? Clutch slippage?
  11. Chickenasana

    Chickenasana .,;,.,;,.,;,.

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    28
    As far as I understand, there are three common modes of TE610 self-destruction:
    1. primary drive nut loose, leading to woodruff disintegration
    2. premature cam chain wear and associated damage
    3. clutch spring washers break and are eaten by the engine
    Am I missing any known issues I should watch out for?

    Anyhow, when I went to torque the primary drive nut, I also checked the clutch "just in case". I really didn't expect to find anything--I bought the bike with less than 4k miles.... But multiple clutch spring washers were worn thin; a couple were already split. And the springs were compressed from stock, and chewed up in some places. In this post you can see a photo of a cracked washer that would split without much persuasion: http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...sign-in-thread.156429/page-1398#post-33373987
  12. BLucare

    BLucare Ambitious, but rubbish

    Joined:
    Oct 6, 2016
    Oddometer:
    304
    Location:
    Milwaukee-ish, Wisconsin, United States
    Jesus, That Bertie fella knows how to make a washer! Who's Bertie, and where do I sign up?

    Speaking of clutch-related things, here's a question... I've noticed, when my TE is in neutral with the clutch out, I can hear a sort of "chugging" noise in sync with the RPMs. I pull the clutch in, and it goes away. Let the clutch out, and it comes back. :dunno

    Anyone have any ideas what that may be?
  13. Chickenasana

    Chickenasana .,;,.,;,.,;,.

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2016
    Oddometer:
    28
    Thank you Lutz! Though its not what I wanted to hear, it makes sense. As usual, I have a list of parts I need to order for my cantankerous bike...

    Parts for the bottom bearing: (2) of #10, 11, & 16 and (1) #13:
    Screen Shot 2017-10-06 at 1.50.20 PM.png

    Parts for top bearing: (1) #11, which Husky calls a "Ball joint assy"--you must be right:
    Screen Shot 2017-10-06 at 1.54.24 PM.png
  14. Teeblatt

    Teeblatt In God we trust; all others must bring data.

    Joined:
    Jul 16, 2009
    Oddometer:
    92
    Location:
    Jacksonville, FL
    See http://www.cafehusky.com/threads/he...0-630-clutch-issues.16604/page-13#post-565380 as Aug 2017 it was posted that he still has them, see last page of the thread.

    Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
    BLucare likes this.
  15. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,117
    Location:
    Clark Co, Wa
    The shock movement is perfectly fine and not a concern at all.
    1. Not an issue on most, but there have been some bikes with this issue. Thankfully, mines not one of them.
    2. Again, not an issue except on a few. I think the manual states 8 notches out or more on the CCT and you need to replace the CC. My bike with over 14,000 miles only has 6 and I put in a manual CCT so probably won't need to replace the CC ever, especially since I actually bought one awhile back, lol.
    3. Yup, an issue with all of them and I suspect they all wear out around 4-6,000 miles. A side note, I was talking with an employee at Bills several months ago who has a SM610 and I asked him about various items on his bike including the clutch washers. He stated that he's never replaced them and has over 90,000 miles on his bike and it's not an issue on his bike. I argued with him for a bit and called bullshit, but just let it go after a bit. This was after he said he doesn't have an issue on the stock seat and was claiming 90,000 miles which I raised my eyebrows at.
    BLucare likes this.
  16. Indy Unlimited

    Indy Unlimited Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 21, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,704
    Location:
    Parker, CO
    Change the timing chain when the tensioner shows 10 teeth is the rule here on our forum.
  17. edeslaur

    edeslaur San Diegan

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    448
    Location:
    Sandy Eggo
    2008 Husky Te610 being transferred to Kalifornia.

    Husky in their infinite stupidity put the 2nd VIN on a sticker on the front fender. Where parts of it are missing from power washing.

    Is there another VIN (Other than fork tube) on the bike? I can't imagine being able to purchase a sticker specific to my motorcycle like that.

    If not, I have to go to CHP to get it validated. And that process sucks.
  18. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,117
    Location:
    Clark Co, Wa
    It's laser etched into the front headstock. All bikes have them on the frame.
    Bad idea to power wash a bike hard enough to tear off that sticker!
  19. Baroquenride

    Baroquenride Everyone dies, but not everyone truly lives.

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2011
    Oddometer:
    2,117
    Location:
    Clark Co, Wa
    Yeah, I couldn't remember if it was 8 or 10 teeth.
  20. chris1044

    chris1044 n00b

    Joined:
    Jul 7, 2015
    Oddometer:
    6
    Location:
    Lost in the mitten
    I know it's been answered, but any universal will work. Just add an in-line T downstream of it to mimic the dual output of the factory petcock....has been working great for me all summer
    RonSJC likes this.