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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.
thanks a lot buffalodan I'll try that before I think about lowering the bike.
I agree with what BuffalloDan said about your suspension setup to get you going.
I weigh about 230 pounds, with a 30 inch inseam. When I bought the bike, they told me they would lower it a couple of inches for free with the purchase. I changed my mind at the last minute because I just didn't want to lose any of the suspension travel. When trying to decide which dualsport to get, wasn't the excellent suspension travel one of the reasons you picked the Husky? It was, for me, part of that decision to get the most capable off road dualsport instead of a dualsport more in tune with pavement travel. I ws thrilled with the new purchase, but intimidated to say the least at this taut suspension that wouldn't even budge under my (quite heavy) weight.
Here is the point of my post ; Don't worry about it.
Set it up like Dan said to get it going, and realize that for like 2 or 3 thousand miles, the more you ride it, the better it is going to get. It will soften up, and it will lower itself slightly. Don't forget about the compression and rebound damping settings, these help a lot to make it feel less harsh(so does going really really fast!!oops I forgot, its your first dirtbike- don't go really really fast.)
I just did an almost 1300 mile trip on my TE, with me and about 40 pounds of gear including boots and jacket and helmet. I knowingly overloaded the bike, just to see if it could handle it. I was looking for a confidence booster in my bike, and boy did I get it. I crashed it in the mud probably 6 times, bent both the shift and the brake foot levers, broke the mirrors, broke the turnsignals, pushed it with the engine going through rushing floodwater that was over my knees. Through all this abuse, THE BIKE PERFORMED FLAWLESSLY.
I set the preload to the max before the trip, and guess what, I had 4 inches of sag with all that damn gear!!! (Note; I should have listened to what BigDog said about the trail, and taken less gear, it would have been more fun.)
For me, the front and rear suspension has proven very adjustable, stout, and thoroughly impressive. I don't ride much motocross stuff-mainly rocky trails and hillclimbs, gravel roads, and probably 40 percent highway getting to and from "my spots."
Sorry for the long post, I just wanted to build your confidence up as you are making your purchase. I bought mine last March, and can still remember feeling like I was getting in over my head with the tall suspension. I almost knocked the bike over at the dealer when I first tried to straddle it. There were 3 salesmen watching and the bike was in a long line of new bikes. If I were to have fallen, it would have been like dominos falling down.
I have to post to comment on the Throttle Cam Rayhttp://www.cycle-analyst.com/DSR-100.htm is going to carry. I have been having trouble on the trails I ride because I need to ride in first gear often (second is too fast), and trying to control the throttle is really herky jerky. I have pretty good hand control but it has so much response that I was getting worn out having to be so precise. Today I install the G2 http://www.g2ergo.com/ - and I could tell right away it is going to be so much easier to ride the tight stuff. If you find yourself in first gear and getting jerked around you might want to get one of these...btw I got the 200(7%) 300 and 400 and installed the 400 which is 20% reduced throttle initially. I think the standard kit comes with 100(stock) 200 and 300...
I need that too, for the really tight stuff.
Along with the smoother low end throttle control, soon we get dirtbagz and big giant fuel tanks. I can't wait.
Wooooot, I am so stoked to get the bags and tank I can't wait to get in a multi-day camping trip with full gear...hotdamn.
Hey BTW is anyone thinking of adding a screen for some cold weather protection? I am thinking of the F650 Dakar Screen with the Baja Light...
P.S. On installing the throttle with cam it might be a good idea to use O-rings that would fit between the tube and bar to minimize vibration. I used a shim made of plastic as I didn't have any o-rings but plan on trying them if I ever change grips...there will be light friction that will act like a cruise control so keep that in mind.
Is that a Baja Tecate with a chopped up Dakar screen? Looks pretty good. Have you priced one of those screens?
On another note where's that drill bit you had for the bar ends? Looks like there may be a couple of guys wanting to use it. I just broke both my Cycras at the bar end (the screws broke) any of you guys know where to get replacement parts?
The kit I carry comes with the 100,200 and 400 cams. $90 plus $5 shipping
I also carry an adjustable thumb screw for idle mixture, it helps when you need to soften the bottom end also. $24.95
You can easily adjust the idle mixture a little richer or leaner depending on your needs.
Brian from Unabiker has my bike and I will have radiator guards before the weekend
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CAM 100Y - Best choice for tracks with perfect traction - from wet sand to loam. When traction is optimal, try CAM100.
CAM 200Y - Perfect for intermediate conditions. From mixed sand to hard terrain, this is the most versatile cam available. For intermediate traction, try CAM200.
CAM 400Y - The best choice for slippery, technical and/or tight woods conditions. From hardpack to rocky, technical terrain to all types of mud. When traction is elusive, try CAM400 </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
Dan that slight gap can be greased or left dry. Anything added to "shim", could cause the throttle to not spring back. :eek1
Upon further consideration(I fall alot) I will be removing the shim and finding something that will allow the throttle to return but hopefully I can minimize the play...
Hoder, I think the screen is around 100.00 but I haven't found the specific info yet as per part number...as to the Tecate that'd be a yes.
I broke the bolt too on the handguards. I think the bend is creating stress as the guard doesn't sit flush against the end of bar so upon impact there is shear stress. Your local hardware store should have the screw. It is M8 X 1.5 X 50mm. I think a longer screw would be better as the 50mm doesn't fully engage the threads of the nipple.
P.S. I still have the bit if someone needs it...
You mean the throttle tube is too large for your bar end? I had a small bit of that on my KTM. The aluminum tube kinda rattled a bit. Seems to be better with my new bars though. It doesn't bother me any more.
Are the Husky bars weirdly sized or something. Is there a lot of play? I have some fairly rigid adhesive PTFE which is about 1/32" thick I was planning on using on my bars, but it was too tight so I couldn't.
BTW, don't try wrapping your bar end in regular teflon tape. I did and it worked fantastic, but before too long it will begin to wad up and it will become unsafe. That's why I ordered something rigid which would hopefully stay put.
For throttle tube lube I use a dry film PTFE spray.
The tube is larger and it could be that the Husky Stock bar is smaller than normal? I think I am going to try the PTFE(water bottle) material next hopefully it is thin enough. O-rings are 1/16" which is too big...I don't want it to vibrate and it probably needs to be free to retract so the thickness must be just right. Too bad there isn't something like a nylon bushing that would be the right size but I have looked everywhere...
I'll show you what I bought. Sorry, I was wrong, it was UHMW tape. Part #CPSTRIP is $3.45/ft and 2" wide. About 0.025" thick.
It's the glide stuff they put on the bottom of computer mice.
You might want to try some stacked papers in there, and measure what fits, to make sure that 0.025" won't be too thick.
I think you're right. I'm going to pre-form them before re-installing so they fit perfect. After 3 dealers I found one to order the bar end kits (I lost the alum. wedges on one side)
Hoder tell us how you plan to form the Cyrca's as I put them in a vise and couldn't get them to move...
I need someone to post a pic of the dogbones and other pivots as I think I may have put my links back together wrong. I removed two bolts to rotate the bottom of the shock so I could get to the damping screw but am afraid I lost a washer. There were two spacers and a washer and I need to make sure I put the washer on the correct side. I placed the washer on the nut side not the bolt side, is that correct? TIA
btw the bolt is slotted to clear the swingarm and I didn't remember there being a washer on that side...
Just in case any one is interested. I just got back from a 1000mi. off road trip on the TE 610. The guys I went with posted everything at http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=169640. Includes a good shot of the bike crossing the Owyhee River.
The bike performed perfectly. No complaints with the bike except not having a skid plate or a big enough tank. All of the subframe bolts rattled out. I added heated grips and a Leo Vince pipe. Everything else was stock. I rode with a KTM 640 and 950 Adventure. I felt I had the best bike for the trip.
Does anyone know where to find a more complete manual, especially in regard to the trip computer? There is all kinds of functionality with no information. Does anyone know how to get rid of the "change oil" light?
great report man - looks like you had great friends for the trip. nicely done.
did you download the manual mentioned in this thread?
glad to see that the husky survived. did you do any kind of air filter clean during your trip? seems like you guys went through quite a bit of dust/silt.
There are some other good threads in the index as well:
Welcome to the group and I must say that ride report is one hell of an entrance .
Thanks Brian for the link to the service manual. It does not explain my issue exactly but there is a ton of info that will certainly come in handy.
Took the air filter out several times to clean it. Being from the 2 stroke world I am more than sensitive to air flow issues. After the 24" powder explosion I actually took the air filter out and dunked it in the Whitehorse hotspring. One day we encountered a long stretch of deep rutted double track with 4-5 foot high sage brush. It took the front 6-8 inches of the radiator scoop off each side. That night I checked the filter. The Twin Air filter was good, but the screen behind it had a significant amount of sage and needles on it. I assume things might have migrated beyond that but the bike has been running great.
Dan, you're the man. The thumpertalk link was freaking classic. I love the "interpretation" sections. Glad to know I was not the only person scratching my head trying to figure out how to the interpret the interpreter. Answers all of my computer questions.
By the way, where did you score the sweet rack on yours? As you might have seen from the pics, I ran a set of my golden retriever's dog bags under the seat. I took an old piece of pipe ducting folded over to keep them from buring on the pipe. Looks like your rack would eliminate that problem.