Husqvarna TE-610 Owners Sign In Thread.

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by buffallodan, Aug 3, 2006.

  1. onebaduce

    onebaduce .

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    567
    Location:
    Dragonmount
    Yoga...if your unhappy with your dealer look around for another. they aren't all bad. Mine in NY went above and beyond with a couple issues. Husky has one of the best factory warranty's on dirt bikes in the industry. Call them direct if your dealer is not helping. I spoke with them and they were fantastic.

    Oil...do a search for Motorex
    Power Synt 4T SAE 10W/60 it's all over the net and very easy to order. Surprised your dealer doesn't stock though.


    Sounds like you are back into bikes after avery long time off. Do youself a favor and educate yourself. Search old TE posts on this site and Thumpertalk and you'll find just about any answer you need. Armed with imformation maybe you wouldn't have been taken(or perceived to have been) on your replacment tire or at the least knew what to expect. I've been taken a time or two over the years and It came down to me not knowing enough.

    Ride Safe

    Joe
  2. Chadleys1

    Chadleys1 working on it

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2005
    Oddometer:
    565
    Location:
    Texas Hillcountry
    I liked the Pirelli's too, they are so much better on the street, almost like a supermotard, they seem to be a little better on hard packed dirt roads too.

    I have not seen mud yet on the TKC's. Around where I am at, it is mostly rocky hills and rocky trails, and the street. We are going through a dry spell, also. Sooner or later it will get muddy.

    I ran some deep crazy Louisiana mud on the original Metzeler Karoo II's, and had problems with the front tire sliding out latterally. I hope the TKC's will do better, but the looks of the fronts are very similar, so when I do hit the mud, I will be cautious at first.

    Believe it or not, the Pirelli's did pretty good on the mud in Tennessee. I was not sport riding though, I was just trying to get through the easiest way possible with a heavy loaded TE. There were times when the I would be going forward slowly with the back tire spinning, but not excessively, and the front sliding to the left while the back was sliding to the right or vice versa. In hindsight, maintaining control of the bike probably had more to do with the consistency of the mud than my tires or riding skill. I would love to hit some mud like that during play time. It was like those dudes who do the burnout donuts while standing on the pegs of their sportbikes. Well, maybe not that cool, but fun.
  3. onebaduce

    onebaduce .

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    567
    Location:
    Dragonmount
    you perfectly descibed the mud by my house that I hate. Absolute lack of control. feet out like outriggers spinning slowly around. If you try to go thru any rutted hole or a puddle and you don't ride dead center thru the rutt the front wheel would wash down into it. the mud is like the slickest, stickiest clay. here a few shots from my fun stuck riding by myself adventure. the other day. Look how the mud become a perfect slick road tire.

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]
    [​IMG][​IMG]




    [​IMG]


    So I too was wondering if the TKC 80 front would fair better or perform just as bad because this shit just is just too slick

    Joe
  4. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
    I installed the Unibiker Rad guards this weekend. They look like they will do a good job of protecting the rads from crushing side impacts. I had already narrowed mine a bit in a fall and needed a longer bolt for lower shroud mount but other than that the install went fine, albiet slow. I pulled the radiators out so I could check valves at the same time...you guys might want to have on hand some #6 and #8 clips and assorted length screws as I stripped a clip on the install.

    Bike at 4600 miles.

    Valves seemed to be holding at .003. Left screens mostly clean. There were still some very fine particals on mag plug.

    High beam nolonger working and charging light wire came loose in multiwire plug and I plan on soldering it and others in place.

    Tightened barrel on throttle cable after new G2 Cam (lower profile) install, and removed the plastic shim I had installed from under throttle, for free play (much better).

    Plug still reading rich on stock jetting so I think I am going to re-jet.

    The screws provided for Cyrca handguards are not long enough to engage all the threads on aluminum shear sleave and will break unless you bend the guards to lay flat against barend. The screws at the Hardware store were only 50mm, same lenght, but were not threaded all the way making them less likely to break.

    I have resigned myself to removing the bash guard for oil changes intead of drilling a large hole in it, for now at least.

    I lost the spacer that holds the rear plastic off the muffler and now I have melted plastic ...what was the solution for a repair? I also broke a blinker lense, where can I get a replacement or better blinker option? TIA

    I think thats it and I will post some pics tomorrow of the Unabikers...

    Dan
  5. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
    If I am gonna do mud then I am going to have some knobbies on the front for shure, those damn Karoos lead to the center of every mud hole totally tossing you off balance. I am running the Bridgestone ED78 and 79 and am going to stick with them and maybe I am gonna try the Kenda Trackmaster 2 since it is DOT and may wear a little better...

    Dan
  6. onebaduce

    onebaduce .

    Joined:
    Jul 30, 2006
    Oddometer:
    567
    Location:
    Dragonmount
    Dan you can order just the spacer I lost one two. The part number is in the parts manual. Gorilla glue new one in. The fix for me that helped more then just the spacer was to tuck the front part of that panel in under the blue panel. it forced out the panel away from the muffler perfect and you can;t tell the difference up front.

    Joe
  7. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
    Thx Joe.

    Dan
  8. GaM

    GaM Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 22, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,877
    Dan my spacer was not plugged in, which caused my big panel meltdown, I haven't had much trouble with it since securing the spacer, I have on couple of occassions had a little melting when standing on very steep technical downhills, with my legs clinching the sides.

    Gotta do some suspension work though, rode 92 miles of very hard, washboard FS roads yesterday, and it beat the snot out of me, rear end skittering everywhere on the washboards.
    [​IMG]
  9. offroute

    offroute Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Truckee/Tahoe
    Just picked mine up today. Would like to meet others in the area who are interested in exploring the area on similar bikes.
  10. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
    Welcome to the group Offroute,
    Let us know how the 610 compares to the DL as I almost went with the Suzuki...would like to have both as they make a good combo imho.

    Dan
  11. offroute

    offroute Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Truckee/Tahoe
    Hi Dan,

    I can already tell you that they are completely different bikes. I love the wee strom and have a hard time imagining anything better for my daily ride. Incredibly smooth, extremely reliable, and leaves you grinning time and time again. It is a great bike in the twisties and super comfortable for long rides. My problem is that I have often found myself exploring on roads or trails much rougher than what it was designed for. See this thread for an example:

    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=122816

    Now with the TE610, I'm hoping to explore similar backcountry to what's in the story above, with a bike that's built for it. Time will tell, and my biggest reservations regarding the TE purchase are reliability. If that proves to be a non-issue, then the 610 should round out my riding stable perfectly. At 50, I've still got plenty of interest in doing real adventures including multi day self-supported all-dirt rides. Nothing extremely technical, but I need a bike that I won't beat the s*** out of in the process.

    My hours spent reading posts here and on TT have given me great hopes for this ride. I'll be sure to post more as I learn...

    Cheers

    Fred
  12. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,019
    Location:
    Buckley, Washington
    Welcome Offroute! I don't think you'll have any reliability issues as long as you check your counterbalancer nut (ok the computers are sketchy). I just ran into my first manufacturing ralated failure. The wiring harness is so tight that a full lock turn ripped the horn wire off. I have to splice in an inch or two of wire there. The horn might be a non-issue but I find it a lot better for signaling someone on the trail than finding a spot to blow by them.
  13. offroute

    offroute Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Truckee/Tahoe
    Hey Hoder,

    Thanks for the advice. Is there a thread you can direct me to that describes how exactly I can check the CB nut?

    Thanks
  14. Hoder

    Hoder Card carrying greeny

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    1,019
    Location:
    Buckley, Washington
    Look here under Mechanical Issues
    http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?p=3057043#post3057043

    Also your bike might stall in (not so) deep water.

    Hey Dan how about adding a link to the index for the water crossimg fix?
  15. offroute

    offroute Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    357
    Location:
    Truckee/Tahoe
  16. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
  17. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2003
    Oddometer:
    4,814
    Location:
    Alpharetta, GA, USA
    buffallodan, I ran across your thread on the Speedzilla site asking about the "Differences of TE-610 & SM-610?"

    http://speedzilla.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18612

    I'm interested in what you ever came up with as I'm considering the same thing. I'm looking for probably 50/50 dirt/road use. Have you found out, or do you believe, it's better to get the TE and buy a set of SM wheels, or buy the SM and get the off-road wheels, etc.? :scratch

    I had some ideas going into this but I'd like to get your opinion which is the most feasible... :ear
  18. daveh

    daveh Husky adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 1, 2005
    Oddometer:
    20
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    Hi All,
    I have just bought a 2nd hand TE610E 2004. I rode a friends 2001 model and was so impressed I had to have one. It's been fitted out with a Staintune exhaust, a Kickstarter, Renthal taper bars and riser, fork boots, barkbusters and a Whipps bash plate. As you know the motor is very smooth.

    Can anyone tell me how to set the chain guide/tensioner? Is it supposed to be straight up and down or angled backwards? Mine is bent back so that the chain rides up and over it. What does it do? Is it supposed to tension the chain when the wheel is unweighted?
    Thanks,
    Dave
  19. buffallodan

    buffallodan Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,709
    Location:
    Frankfort Kentucky
    I wanted to do more offroad so I went with the TE as to not sacrifice suspension travel. The SM has stiffer suspension as well as being shorter by about an inch. Considering I can't out ride the TE with street tires on, I think it makes a good curvy road bike as is and you can raise the forks in the stantions to quicken handling as well...so far no regrets on going with the TE and unless I have some disposable income I won't be getting 17's for a while and will use the Pirelli AT90's for pure street miles.

    Dan
  20. ra2bach

    ra2bach drive-by poster

    Joined:
    Dec 11, 2003
    Oddometer:
    4,814
    Location:
    Alpharetta, GA, USA
    I'm with you on this Dan :thumb My thoughts were running just a little bit like "since I'm not a full time dirt rider, I wanted to get even a little more dual nature out of the bike".

    I saw the SM as essentially the same bike, right down to the gear ratios, with only the wheels, 320mm floating disk, and a much bigger Brembo radial caliper as the major diff's and wondered if I wouldn't simply be ahead of the game by starting with the SM. that way, I'd only have to get a front wheel with a 320 disk mounted instead of two wheels with disks and a caliper spacer.

    my thinking is that the bigger brake would be more applicable on the dirt than the smaller (possibly undersized?) one would be on the street, no?

    I realize that I would probably have to go with a 19" front while keeping the rear at 17" but is that such a terrible compromise?