I Have NO Experience

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by Leo562, Jan 17, 2013.

  1. England-Kev

    England-Kev Long timer

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    I get the rubber grease free in little sachets from my local garage, I use it on those little o-rings on the brake shaft that goes through the final drive. Great stuff to have around.:clap
  2. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    I see lots of rubber grease now....!:clapGood stuff but next to impossible to find in Canada and the USAs anymore. I did find some somewhere in small quantities, but having to pay $15-20.00 for 2 Oz or so and then more than that for shipping to Canada, not cost effective.:wink:

    Good stuff for rubber parts on fuel injection systems, unlike sillycone products will not pollute an expensive O2 sensor.:D

    Big can shipped from the UK was less than $20.00. When I looked there was someone selling it by the tablespoon on Fleabay.:lol3

    Castrol makes a similar product overseas, "Castrol Red Grease".:wink:

    Castor grease.....well Castor is French for Beaver......:rofl
  3. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Is the idea that this product, Red Rubber Grease, which is intended for use in brake systems also good as a general rubber restorative and preservative?
  4. England-Kev

    England-Kev Long timer

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  5. H96669

    H96669 A proud pragmatist.

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    Yes but that's the caliper grease with Moly in it usually. You don't really want to lube external rubber bits with that, makes a hell of mess. May not be compatible with brake fluids just like the sillycone type ones and that's primarly why I got rubber grease, brake calipers/MC rebuilds altough I have known for a long time about their rubber preservation properties.

    As it says on the packaging for the PBR stuff up there.:wink:
  6. Mugwest

    Mugwest .

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    Leo! Come back!

    You don't really need a PhD in Grease to continue your story! :lol3

    I'm wondering if your dad was pals with Josh Buck over in Long Beach for that stash of spares...
  7. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    !!!Sorry about not updating I have been sick for quite a while and i am finally in good health!!!

    I just got out to the garage yesterday and I had to make a trip to the local BMW shop in order to pick up some pieces for the clutch control and the connection between the air box and the carburetor

    SO I got those parts and then I got side tracked and while the transmission was still attached to the engine block I decided I would see how the swing arm went on!!

    Well I attached the swing arm to the frame with the Pivot pin and the hex nut I tightened it and there was no play but there was a small gap between the frame and the swing arm!

    My question to you is Should there be a piece there protecting dirt and other contaminants from going inside the swing arm?

    Pics should be up later tonight I will be working today :D
  8. hardwaregrrl

    hardwaregrrl ignore list

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    Nope. Just bearing grease. Try to make sure the gap is equal on both sides. Take a 4mm Allen wrench and use that as the guide. Just slip it in the gap to help judge the difference. Glad you're feeling better.
  9. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    I was wondering if I need to replace the air tubes I don't know if the plastic needs to be replaced like all the rest of the rubber!?:ear

    Thank you

    Leo
  10. groop

    groop So much to ponder

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    You're talking about the airbox to the carb curved 'air tubes'? Any cracks? If not, It's probably OK
  11. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    Yes that's exactly what I'm talking about! There aren't major cracks, just minor scratches and I bout new rubbers to attach the tubes to the carborators so there would be now air leakage.

    Ive got another auestion ! When working on the clutch in the transmission( I am talking about reassembling the clutch into the transmission) When inserting the felt ring that is on the push rod how do you put that in the transmission without ripping the felt ring?

    And what multi purpose greases did we decide was best hahah that discussion kind of went over my head haha
  12. disston

    disston ShadeTreeExpert

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    Common grease. The one used in most places today when you need to have something that is slippery and repels water. It is these days a Synthetic product, much better than what we had 50 years ago. Many, many brand names. Most of the time it is labeled "Hi-Temp Wheel Bearing Grease" It may include "Disk Brake" or "Drum Brake" in the name. You may want to read the label, there are a couple of exotic greases for cables and such and they will say "Not for use on bearings" or something.

    This is the brand sold at most Motorcycle stores.

    [​IMG]

    You can find wheel bearing grease in the smallest hardware store. I think they carry it in some quickie stores around here where I buy my morning coffee.

    The traditional way to compress the felt on the throw out rod is to use a soda straw to push the rod through. This is usually the right size but if this trick doesn't work for you try dental floss. Wrap the dental floss around the felt enough to compress the felt but leave the ends trailing behind as you insert rod. Once felt is inside pull dental floss out.

    Did you buy a new felt for the throw out rod? The old felt will fit better. They seldom need changing and if you have a new felt you may have to cut a mm or so off the circumference to make it fit. There are reports that felts are being cut too big by BMW's supplier. The circumference is cut at an angle. A piece is trimmed to make the felt fit a smaller rod, as it were.
  13. Kai Ju

    Kai Ju Long timer

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    I just installed a new felt in my clutch pushrod and could for the life of me not get it started in the input shaft. It kept peeling up.
    I found a spacer that had a slighly larger ID than the OD of the pushrod so I carefully worked the spacer over the felt, with grease, and installed the pushrod into the shaft. Imagine a ring compressor. Worked quite well I have to say.
  14. benthic

    benthic glutton 4 punishment

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    dental floss! I had the same problem, but someone in my thread suggested wrapping the felt with floss to compress and insert, then unwind the floss...
  15. craydds

    craydds Long timer

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  16. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    I don't update much because i have no pictures to show you every time i work on the bike i forget to take pictures!!!

    But to put this update in short THE BIKE IS ALMOST ROLLING !!!

    I need

    Fuel petcocks
    braided fuel line
    fuel filters
    and the seat lock and the bike will be running soon!!
  17. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    Does anyone has pictures or specifications on the fender mounting nuts and bolts cause I have the boxes of nuts and bolts to look through and I can not find them for the life of me
    Thanks!
    Leo
  18. Bill Harris

    Bill Harris Confirmed Curmudgeon

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  19. Leo562

    Leo562 Adventurer

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    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]


    Here are just a few photos for those people that may still see this.
    I finished the project in June of 2013
    And it was awesome while it lasted but the four bolts that connect the transmit up to the drive shaft stripped out of the transmision so now there are shreds of blots in the drive shaft and now it has been sitting again for now coming up on 9 months. Any suggestions?
  20. AntonLargiader

    AntonLargiader Long timer

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    Fix it? Maybe I'm missing something but you have to take apart the bad stuff, clean the bits out and reassemble (properly) with good stuff. What held you back from doing that?