I need A Picture Tutorial For Changing Fork OIL

Discussion in 'Crazy-Awesome almost Dakar racers (950/990cc)' started by dwj - Donnie, Aug 11, 2013.

  1. dwj - Donnie

    dwj - Donnie Long timer

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    Hi!

    My 2007 990 Adventure has almost 28,000 miles and has never had the fork oil changed. I assume that it is about time that it be changed. I have not been able to locate a good photo tutorial, maybe I have just over looked it. There are no leaks or problems, just PM. What weight oil do y'all use? Thanks!

    Donnie
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  2. bikyto

    bikyto Dans le doute...gaz!

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    I know of one but it's in French. Might be more confusing than anything else.

    I use 5W on mine.
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  3. MAXVERT

    MAXVERT OG on da OC

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    Try Slavens Racing.

    Jeff has some good videos on fork maintenance.

    Max
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  4. dwj - Donnie

    dwj - Donnie Long timer

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    \

    I didn't see one for changing fork oil.
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  5. Hootowl

    Hootowl Long timer

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    You'll need one of these fork cap tools http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/partno/08-0290/
    How to set fork oil level https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=glG3gUjxjEU
    complete fork disassembly and assembly (PDF) https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B5n...tZmU1ZjliYzg3NGUw/edit?hl=en&authkey=CNm9_sIE I would use the fork cap tool to remove the cap & not the box end as shown on page 5
    And this: http://www.dirtyadv.com/ktm-950-adventure-fork-seal-replacement/

    Might as well change out the seals as well while the forks are off the bike
    #5
  6. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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  7. dwj - Donnie

    dwj - Donnie Long timer

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    Thanks for the info! :clap Is there one that is only for changing the oil or does everyone wait until they start leaking and change seals/bushings at the same time? Thanks!

    Donnie
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  8. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    I change my fork oil every 2 years.

    Run a piece of plastic coke bottle around the seals to clean them from time to time.
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  9. fast4d

    fast4d Long timer

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    get some race tech fork grease. apply a little between dust wiper and oil seal. do it even if you are just changing fluid and not replacing seal or bushing.

    if your fluid is oem or have have lots of miles you should take it completely apart and clean. fluid will have lots of sediments
    #9
  10. LocuL

    LocuL Gnarly Infantry

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  11. DirtyADV

    DirtyADV Long timer

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    For a change just go into it so you can remove the spring (has to be out when setting oil level.

    I would recommend to pour a little fresh oil into it and pump inner part a few times and drain that, will get some of the old stuff out.

    /Johan
    #11
  12. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    Originally done by Adz on the UKKTMForum:

    Heres some pics so you have an idea whats inside.

    Undo the cap..

    [​IMG]

    22mm spanner, pull down the spring and slip it in..

    [​IMG]

    take cap off and pull the long ally rod out of the center of the cartridge. remove the spring, pour the oil out, pump the cartridge untill all the oils out..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    work around the dust seal with a small screwdriver, steady or it will mark the outer tube.

    slide the dust seal down..

    i like to grip the outer tube lighty in a vice..

    [​IMG]


    Remove the circlip, it has one open end you can work that with a small screwdriver or seal pick.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    now it helps to heat the seal area with a heat gun but you dont have to.

    give the innner tube a sharp tug and the seal and bushes should all come out. if you didnt heat it and it was hard to part make shure the large washer is still flat and not dished.

    [​IMG]


    remove old seal, tape the end of the inner tube and slap some grease on it, slide the new seal on.

    [​IMG]

    should look like this right to left, dust seal,circlip,oil seal,washer outer tube bush.

    [​IMG]

    slide the inner tube back in and use the seal driver you got off the nice man on ebay to tap in the outer tube bush.



    pop the wahser in then use the same driver with the under cut lip to tap the seal in..



    re fit the circlip, make shure its snug in the grove all the way round or the seal will come out, re fit dust seal.

    turn the fork upright and fill with oil about 525 to 540 mls pump the cartridge untill its smooth all the way through its action and pop the ally rod back in the center, make sure it sits down flush with the top.

    put the spring in pull i down and pop the 22mm in, then refit the cap.

    [​IMG]
    #12
  13. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    You ideally should fill with about 550ml of oil, then pump the cartridge up and down until no bubbles are coming up, then suck out the excess oil to set the fork level to around 100mm on an Adv. Then fit the spring, rebound tube and cap.
    #13
  14. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    I do it without even removing the spring. About 100ml of old oil remains inside, but its so fast and easy that who cares. Not the purist's way by any means....:huh
    #14
  15. grant22

    grant22 Been here awhile

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  16. dwj - Donnie

    dwj - Donnie Long timer

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  17. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    A few people pm-ed to ask me what is the 'easy' method I use, here is goes:

    1) Loosen the top triple tree bolts, keep the bottom tree bolts tight
    2) Turn (unscrew) the preload bolts on the top, when all preload is removed give it a bit more and the top caps will loosen. When they loosen stop turning them.
    3) Loosen bottom tree bolts and remove forks
    4) keep forks vertical, hold stationary the top caps and the fork boots and unscrew the top fork legs from the caps.
    5) pull top fork legs all the way down
    6) reverse forks and empty oil in a container. Measure exactly how much oil comes out from each leg. You have to assume here that last person who screwed with your forks put the correct amount of oil.
    7) keep forks upside down to drain as much oil as possible
    8) Get a small funnel, small enough for its pointy end to get between the fork spring and the fork leg and fill with same quantity of new oil. I use a big plastic syringe and a funnel on top of it.
    9) pull up the upper fork leg and screw it back to the top cap, again without turning the cap, just the leg.
    10) Replace forks, tighten bottom tree bolts, then fork caps then top triple bolts.
    #17
  18. Peanuts

    Peanuts Long timer

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    I would never use the preload adjuster to undo fork caps. If you dont have the 4 pin tool, use an adjustable 2 pin tool designed for angle grinders, very cheap to buy.

    http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Silverlin...125?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item2a14a6112d

    [​IMG]


    I must admit I do the tip out the oil and measure method for quick changes on non leaking forks.

    I thought about taking out the base valve and pumping empty, then refil through the bleed screw hole. I will give it a try this Winter.
    #18
  19. mousitsas

    mousitsas Long timer

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    Thanks for the tips Peanuts.
    The fork cap on my forks was not tight at all, maybe that was just my bike.
    If it is as easy to remove the base valve, then it would be dream come true. I will check it out on an old pair of WP 43mm forks I have lying around.
    #19
  20. dwj - Donnie

    dwj - Donnie Long timer

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    Thanks! :clap:clap:clap I think this will work for me! :deal
    #20