In memory of Jim Adams - an R60/5 build diary

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by backdrifter, Aug 8, 2010.

  1. enzorover

    enzorover Adventurer

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    First of all, happy birthday!

    Second...so all that happened was that the positive jumper grounded against the frame? If that's the case, the only thing you've done is direct shorted your negative battery lead. I'm not sure where these diodes are that you're talking about... I imagine this bike has a generator and not an alternator so there aren't any diodes there. There's a capacitor in the ignition but, that should not have been effected (affected?) by the short. Neither of those two things should be in the starter circuit anyway.

    I'd suggest you check that negative lead. Obviously, look at the connections at the battery and the frame but also look at the wires going into the connections. What you might have is a partly fried cable. There is just enough connection to allow the lights and horn to work but not enough to pass the amperage your starter wants. This will drive you nuts with an ohmmeter. It'll read continuity because there is not enough current going through the wires. I've also seen it where the connections look ok but all the wires in between are partially fried.

    If the negative cable looks good check the positive. If they're both ok, try directly jumping the starter to see if it still works. It could be something completely unrelated to the jumper falling off, too. Check the actual starter button by jumping accross the wires going into it. Does the starter relay click? Jump accross the relay to see if it still works.

    **BTW, all these "jumping" actions (with the exception of jumping the starter) should be done with a fused jumper lead.**
    #61
  2. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Thanks for the response, enzo.

    Yes, all I did was touch the positive lead to the frame. The bike grounds directly to the frame. The positive and negative leads and connectors looks fine, and are passing current (based on my very rudimentary circuit tester - I'm not even using an ohm meter). I have current to the starter solenoid, across the solenoid, and into the starter relay, from what I can tell. I have not uncoiled the rats-nest of wires that go into the diode board, but I have a strong feeling that that is where things went wrong. The diode board looks quite a bit more fragile than anything else around it. I did try jumping directly to the starter - nothing. No, there is no starter relay click in any situation that I've tried so far. I don't have a fused jumper lead, so I can't try some of the suggestions you mentioned.

    I need to set aside an hour or two to go at it again, but just haven't had the chance lately. Hopefully later this week....
    #62
  3. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    #63
  4. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    #64
  5. Hawk Medicine

    Hawk Medicine Coyote's Brother

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    Damn....!

    The only thing wrong with that truck is it's way too clean! :lol3

    Yes, That circuit looking thing is the Diode Board and yes, it's very important if you need the bike to run. Since you think you might have fried it, (And you probably did.) you now have the choice of buying or begging a good one from some Airhead, replacing it with a new one or repairing the one you have.

    If you decide to replace it, check out the one here: http://www.motoelekt.com/charging.htm

    Now... if you want to fix your fried board.... Remember that guy who owns the overly clean monster truck? well, I'll bet he knows all about diodes!:rofl
    #65
  6. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    OK, quick question:

    I'm assuming the "connector block" in the electrical wiring diagram for the Clymer manual is the same as the diode board? I'm thinking it must be, otherwise they left the diode board out of the diagram! :eek1
    #66
  7. bmwblake

    bmwblake upside down parker

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    the connector block is the shared connection board inside the headlight shell. i checked my haynes manual and it shows the diode board.



    #67
  8. enzorover

    enzorover Adventurer

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    #68
  9. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Well, in keeping with the slowness that I promised, I figured five months is long enough since my last post to warrant an update! In my last update I was having an electrical issue. Still am, and narrowed it down to either a fried regulator or a fried starter relay. I've decided to swap both out. I'll determine which was the offending part and keep the other part as a spare.

    Nothing done to the bike yet, but I did allocate a lump of cash towards working on the bike. And once I had that, I went shopping. I ordered:

    Machined top clamp and exhaust tool from San Jose BMW:

    [​IMG]

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    The top clamp is a nice piece, and very attractively priced too. I think it will do a nice job of stiffening up the front end. A photo showing the difference between the stock top clamp and the SJBMW top clamp:

    [​IMG]

    I also ordered (but haven't yet received):

    New Dunstall sytle silencers
    Complete stainless steel nut, bolt, and fastener kit
    Complete engine gasket and o-ring kit
    Oil filter
    Starter relay
    Voltage regulator
    New BMW tank emblems with gaskets
    Progressive fork springs
    IKON shocks
    Front and rear brake shoes
    Locking tank cap
    Instrument cluster chrome ring/gasket
    Chrome key switch assembly
    Signal indicator light for headlight (managed to break mine somehow)

    The silencers were off of eBay. Cheap, but nice looking. I was willing to take a chance on them for the price. All the other parts listed are coming from BMW Hucky, and I probably won't have them for another week or so.

    As I said, nothing new on the bike since my last post, but I hate posting updates without pics, so here are a few more photos of the bike:

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    [​IMG]
    #69
  10. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

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    Love the project! I have a 1970 that is still in good shape. I like the black Toaster tank and one day hope to find one. I love my stock big tank though!

    [​IMG]Rode it today actually.
    #70
  11. trophymoto

    trophymoto MACDADDY!

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    you do know you will have to chop the headlight ears with that top triple clamp.
    #71
  12. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

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    I was going to say that but wasn't sure how he would do it. Bummer....I vote for a extra set of ears......
    #72
  13. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Nice bike, Sniper X, thanks for sharing!

    Yep. Not too concerned about it. A clean cut and you'll never be able to tell. I plan to cut off the bottom. I've always thought the headlight is mounted just a bit too high. A bit of a cut off the bottom of the ears will help that some.
    #73
  14. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Stop!
    dON'T DO IT!
    I tried that on a /6 and nothing fit right.
    Do it from the top. TRUST me.
    If you do decide to do it your way, PM when you want to buy some /5 ears so you can do it right.
    #74
  15. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Thanks for the advice, wirewrkr. I'm happy to learn from others mistakes, so I'll keep to cutting off of the top of the ears. Thanks again!
    #75
  16. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    Actually Wirewrkr is wrong. You need to cut and equal amount off of the top and bottom. This is the only way the rubbers will kinda fit back on the ears. Trust me have done this prob. 20 times.
    #76
  17. wirewrkr

    wirewrkr the thread-killer

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    Ouch Chris, But that's a nice approach too.
    Maybe you should call big Chris and have him redraw the directions.
    #77
  18. Boxer Metal

    Boxer Metal Mad Scientist

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    I wasn't trying to offend you you here. There is still lots of love:) There is no way the top rubber will stay in place if you take it all off the top. I guess if you took a bottom rubber and cut it, it might work.
    #78
  19. backdrifter

    backdrifter Wannabe rider

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    Lots of parts arrived today. Everything looks great, and this has me all the more excited to jump in. Unfortunately, I'm leaving first thing tomorrow morning for a relaxing weekend in Tennessee, so nothing will get accomplished this weekend. Somehow I don't think my wife will let me stay home and work on the BMW on our anniversary weekend! :evil

    I also cleaned the garage and my workspace to make everything more manageable. It doesn't look like much in the photos below, but trust me, it's way better than it was!

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    #79
  20. east high

    east high Been here awhile

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    Oct 13, 2009
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    955
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    Portland, Oregon
    You guys talking about these instructions? Or are these specific to the toastertan braces?

    [​IMG]
    #80