In over my head.. and loving it.

Discussion in 'Old's Cool' started by crazydrummerdude, Sep 25, 2010.

  1. jbcaddy

    jbcaddy Long timer

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    a few years back, while canoeing on a small lake in the California Sierra's, I heard a roar and a silver military style transport popped over the ridge and did a ground hugging blast down the valley. not a single marking on it! no N numbers, tail or wing markings or anything! this about 50 air miles north of the marines mountian warfare training area.
  2. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    Considering I just lived in the high desert and spend the summer in/near the Sierra's... :eek1
  3. bmwhacker

    bmwhacker Still on 3 wheels

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    MONTANA NATIVE from NATIVE MONTANA

    I'm picking up a 1954 Zundapp KS601 next week.:clap In similar "patina'd" condition as your present projects....looking for advice on aluminum cleaning, rust removal, paint removal (I think the original fender paint is under a repaint). Any way to remove one layer of paint and not remove the original paint underneath?
    With all the rusty stuff I've seen of yours you must have a system down by now.(?) I have never seen, much less used, Scotchbrite. Does it come in different grades? I see you've been using it with WD-40. How's it working? I've used steel wool on surface rust with pretty good results.
    Due to the astronomical costs of Zundapp KS601 parts (if you can find them) I'm hoping to preserve everything possible. Total restoration of this bike would be more than I want to spend so I hope to clean it up and get it running mostly as is.
    Any advice would be appreciated. :clap
  4. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    Scotchbrite is like steel wool on steroids. It actually takes rust off. It also scratches the chrome/shiny sections a bit more, so you need to go back over the piece(s) with finer grades of Scotchbrite (they exist) then a couple passes with finer grades of steel wool. Also, I like Scotchbrite because it doesn't rust (like steel wool does). Also, it stays together better than steel wool; instead of tearing apart so much, it collapses and becomes flimsy when it's worn out.

    I just got a dedicated polishing wheel set up, but I have yet to try it out for the final pass.

    I've been able to remove paint one layer at a time, but not without scratching the hell out of the paint on the lower later. So, no advice there.
  5. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    The most versatile crud/layer remover around is 1000 grit steel wool. On the package it says 0000. It'll allow you to gently go down layer by layer.
  6. bpeckm

    bpeckm Grin!

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    fwiw, you can get "bronze wool", which we use on boats, since little shreds of steel make for gazillions of rust spots on salt water boats....

    also, stainless steel wool is available.

    just in case.

    :D
  7. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    So, I've got a couple bucks for once.

    What should I buy (from Hucky's) for my /2's that I will for sure need soon? So far, I have:
    -sidecar bars,
    -front, rear, and sidecar tires,
    ????

    Are there any "Oh, you're totally going to need a _____" items you can think of?

    That reminds me. On my R60, I have aluminum wheels. On my BMVW and sidecar, I have steel wheels. I've heard (maybe in this thread) that I should have all the steel wheels on the sidecar rig. So, should I swap the aluminum ones on the sidecar rig with the steel ones on the BMVW?

    Two aluminum + one steel:

    [​IMG]

    Two steel:

    [​IMG]

    (Actually, two of the tires on steel wheels still hold air. I'd be willing to save some money and keep them during the resurrection process, rather than letting a brand new set get hard and dry from sitting. (Note: I didn't say I'd be riding cross country on the old tires. Just keeping it rolling so I could do a lap around my field or something.))
  8. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    For the R60, I ordered Metzeler K sidecar tire/tube and sidecar (wide) handle bars. For the BMVW, I ordered headlight ignition switch cover pieces (the pieces on the outside of the headlight shell). For my /6's, I ordered a few doo-dads. Lately, I've been putting more money/parts into my Japanese dirtbike collection. Blasphemy! :lol3
  9. davef

    davef I'm outta order

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    Absolutely put all the steel wheels on the sidecar rig. Sidecars tend to put a lot of lateral forces on the wheels when turning. Aluminum rims would fold sooner under those forces.

    The metzler K's are nice, but damn expensive. Since I know you live for deals, you should look at the Duros. I have a set on my rig, and they seem to hold up fairly well. They do have a lower speed rating, but I highly doubt the rig will exceed their 90mph rating.:

    http://www.heindlengineering.com/Online_Store/sidecar_parts.htm
  10. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    Thanks for the info on the wheels. Looks like the Duro is $15 cheaper than the Metzeler. How long does one last with "normal" use?
  11. davef

    davef I'm outta order

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    I don't know yet how long they'll last. This is my first set. I have over a 1K on them so far and they still look new.
  12. danedg

    danedg Horizontally Opposed

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    This is a rhetorical question right?
    Just start saving for a complete engine, tranny and rear drive build.....after that, then you'll be needing a few more odds and ends.....
  13. photomd

    photomd Been here awhile

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    Well....post up some Japanese dirtbike stuff. RTWdoug is shipping out and you're not posting anything. What the heck are we supposed to read? :evil
  14. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    Some bad news today.. I took the ape-hangers off.

    :lol3

    I was able to slide everything off with little fanfare. I polished one handlebar mount up (as best as I could) and left the other one untouched for a picture.. but I didn't bring a camera. :doh

    The left grip had a surprise*. Someone cut down a dowel and shoved it in the end of the handlebar since the grip wouldn't go all the way on before the bend. Also on that side, the wedge/perch/whatever-it-is was missing and in its place was a wedge-shaped piece of broken plastic. I cleaned and greased the lever and set it aside. The right side grip had the wedge/perch, but was missing the wave washer on the top of the lever inside the grip and the nut/washer on the bottom of the pivot bolt. I cleaned it fairly well, removing the black hard grease from the throttle disc gear(s).

    I then un-electrical-taped the two wires for the switches.

    Also, after primer, I rattle-canned the battery tray and lower tank mount.

    A little at a time. I'll get some more done in a week.

    *Actually, who knew BMW used Japanese grips? Ha! One more thing to add to the list..
  15. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    This is what Scotchbrite does to severe rust (before/after):

    [​IMG]

    Edit: Cumminsman76 told me I have way too much patience. :lol3

    Since the ape-hangers were so tall, someone spliced in an extra 1' of wire to each control. I took the extra off. I figured it wouldn't be any worse than before to just put the wires back together and electrical tape them.. until I feel like buying new harnesses.

    [​IMG]

    I had never seen electrical tape make wires so sticky before. It was a slimey mess.

    I put the wide sidecar bars on it. I can roll it around easily, again.

    I am polishing up the sidecar wheel in preparation for the new rubber I have waiting. I tried to cut the old tire off, but the bead is pretty tough. I'll try again.
  16. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    I got titles for both of my /2's!

    :clap :D
  17. Whitey1

    Whitey1 "Whitebread"

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    We need more pics. I am subscribed to several of your threads and I have no clue how you find time for them, but I applaud you.


    :clap
  18. crazydrummerdude

    crazydrummerdude Wacky Bongo Boy

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    The threads I have cover only about 1/3 of my projects. :evil

    During my entire time on this forum, I had been in school full time to become a rocket surgeon, and half the time I was running my own business.. and I played drums in a couple shows. Now that I've graduated and on Monday will accept an official rocket surgery job, I will have time and most importantly.. a constant source of money for my projects.

    Expect much more progress in the near future.
  19. RAGBrian

    RAGBrian jonesing for a ride

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    :clap Congrats on the job! I like that description "a rocket surgeon"
  20. melville

    melville Long timer

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    Woo Hoo! Didja get tltled in Missouri or Mizzourah?