DAY 16: This place was such a dive and so hot that Minxter and I yanked our bed out onto the porch where we slept for the night. We got up and got out of Ramban asap. Another 45km from Ramban was the town of Kud which had many more options for places to stay. I heavily recommend Kud over Ramban for accommodations. We ran out of light otherwise would've pushed for it. Now we were making the decent down toward the big city of Jammu. This was a long canyon with lots of trucks. Nothing to see here, just another wrecked rig, go about your business We were tired from the entire journey and weren't taking many photos at this point. After missing the road which would have diverted us around Jammu, we entered Jammu which was a very busy city. This is the only photo that we have from there which doesn't do ANY justice. We made a few wrong turns and ended up in some totally tight and crowded narrow little streets. It took us a while to get out of this labyrinth of a city. We were down in the plains again. After making it to Jammu we were feeling comfortable that we'd return to Delhi with the bikes. We were going to wind back into the foothills and traverse our way toward Delhi over the next few days. Out next goal was Dharmasala. We had a stretch of flat busy road we had to punch out first though. Not much here except a lot of dirt and diesel smoke. It was afternoon sometime we were dirty, hot, and we were toast! This photo was taken AFTER I washed my face. We stopped for some nourishment. Once again, we had an excellent meal at a little roadside restaurant. We pulled the throttles open and gained another 100km to the town of Pathankot. This little village was swarming!! We went through only to find a bridge was out which crossed a large river and the detour was quite a bit out of the way. It was late and we were beat so we decided to go back and stay in Panthakot. These are the strangest vehicles. Some sort of front wheel drive trike contraption that seem to be widely used. We found a great cheap hotel (with AC!!) and got cleaned up. This put us back in the game again. We took a cruise through the town which we ended up really liking. The place was energetic and alive!! Next it was my bike's turn for the clutch to start acting up. Not surprising and we'd take care of it in the morning. In the mean time we parked em in the middle of town and walked around. We were looking for dinner and at this little dive were some cooks who were so animated that we had to eat there. At night the camera's really pick up how dirty India is as you can see all the dust particles in the air. The place was SO small!! Two tables tucked in just off the street. PERFECT!! The place was run by two brothers. The guy on the left and the guy on the far right. They were awesome!! They spoke so little english but really welcomed us. One of the brothers job was to crank out "roti" which is a flat bread baked in these open fire ovens. They roll out the dough then stick it to the inside of the oven where it bakes for a short period. You can see one of them stuck inside the oven in this photo. This tiny little place was HANDS DOWN the best (and the least expensive!!) meal we had on the entire journey! You just never know where you'll stumble across something like this. Here's one example of how a family of 5 gets around. We went back to the hotel and called it a night. It was a big day that wore on us but the excitement of Panthakot brought us around. Panthakot ended up being another one of our favorite places. We managed just over 250km this day.