India: Delhi through Kashmir on a Royal piece of....

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by Joe Motocross, Jan 3, 2011.

  1. rednax

    rednax Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Dec 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    119
    Location:
    Gothenburg Sweden
    Old pieces of yunk, but it seems it turned into a nice experience:rofl:freaky and for sure into a really good story nicely illustrated. :clap:clap:clap Subscribed !
    By the way, isn´t the long line of customers outside the workshop just due to the fact that India is crawling with longlived Enfields ?
    #81
  2. Joe Motocross

    Joe Motocross Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    326
    DAY 7:
    We wake up and see the other group of Enfield fanatics off. They've had clutch work, brake pad replacement and a few other items taken care of. We'd learn that the Enfield clutch was one of the most problematic issues with these bikes as we'd start to see clutch covers off EVERYWHERE!! One of the girls is riding her own bike, pretty impressive considering the terrain and the road conditions.
    [​IMG]


    We stop by Yogi's to check in. It's now the daytime scene with guys patiently waiting and lots of repairs going on. More Enfields stop in for this or that. Yogi tells us his boy is on his way over Rohtang and he's expecting the part late this evening.

    So we've got a day off to take in this beautiful valley that Keylong sits in.
    [​IMG]


    Keylong is isolated for the entire winter when the snow comes as the big mountain passes are closed. There is lots of avalanche activity and I could only imagine what it would be like to keep those passes plowed.

    Here are some locals getting hay stockpiled for the upcoming winter. There was quite a bit of local farming happening around the village.
    [​IMG]


    We walked around on little trails that wound down to the river with sites in every direction
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    This was the roof top of our accommodations. Great day to do a little laundry.
    [​IMG]


    The people running the Nordaling Hotel were very nice and the food was EXCELLENT!! Tough to beat it's location also.
    [​IMG]


    This was a great day to regroup, stretch, get our minds reset.
    [​IMG]


    Buuurrrt and Maja took a ride down the valley to the confluence where the only gas station was.
    [​IMG]


    We decided to have them fill up all of our containers so we'd be ready to depart when and if we got the bike fixed. Well, as I already said, we WOULD fix the bike no matter what and filling up with gas demonstrates that we were in the mind set of pushing on.
    [​IMG]


    We were hoping to make it to Leh which would be as far north as we intended to go. We'd then work our way back south on a different route. With all the rain that had fallen recently, many of the roads were washed out. We would have to make a detour and lengthen our route to Leh as one of the big passes was closed. We were told a large section of the road was no longer there.
    [​IMG]

    Buuurrrt and Maja climbed up to visit a monastery on their way back up to Keylong. Very stunning views from this little spur road.
    [​IMG]


    Here's Buuurrrt taking it in, doing a mental reset. Awesome!!
    [​IMG]


    We regrouped at the Nordaling and stowed our fuel. We went down to Yogi's to see what the status was on the part that was getting machined. He informed us it was done but the machinist wasn't able to get to it until late that afternoon and it was too late for Yogi's apprentice to ride back that night. He'd come in the morning. I was wondering if he'd make it to Kulu, get the part machined and make it back in a day, but things were coming together. We'd start wrenching again in the morning.
    [​IMG]
    #82
  3. Joe Motocross

    Joe Motocross Been here awhile

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    326
    Oh yeah, we were also getting mentally prepped for the next big pass not that far up the road, Baralachala. After Rohtang, we were already anticipating a challenge. All you had to do was mention the name Baralachala to one of us and our hair would start to stand on end. (You gotta almost whisper it in an eerie tone: Baralachala!! BARALACHALA!!)
    #83
  4. Darnum Dingo

    Darnum Dingo Adventurer

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    Jan 12, 2011
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    Australia
    Excellent Write up. Keep it coming. Subscribed
    #84
  5. rogerdodger

    rogerdodger Been here awhile

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    Currently in Australia
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mso-para-margin-left:0in; line-height:115%; mso-pagination:widow-orphan; font-size:11.0pt; font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif"; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri; mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-fareast-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-fareast-theme-font:minor-fareast; mso-hansi-font-family:Calibri; mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin; mso-bidi-font-family:"Times New Roman"; mso-bidi-theme-font:minor-bidi;} </style> <![endif]--> If there’s one thing I hope people learn and take away from India. Its that we are the only ones responsible for our lives and what happens in them. You can either live whining about it, or like the Indian’s look on everything good and bad with the same smile.


    Baralacha!? its all easy after Rohtang
    #85
  6. Joe Motocross

    Joe Motocross Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    326
    Well said Rodgerdodger! We deal our own destiny. I hope I don't come off whining about those Enfields. We chose them with prior knowledge and I wouldn't change a thing. Part of the adventure was the challenge of keeping them running. I just don't like em'!! :D
    #86
  7. TLTom

    TLTom Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 2, 2007
    Oddometer:
    201
    Location:
    East Toronto, by the water
    #87
  8. thenation

    thenation n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    5
    Suscribed!
    #88
  9. coolgoose2

    coolgoose2 Old Monk

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2009
    Oddometer:
    16
    Location:
    India
    Great thread..:eek1

    Anyway I am going to ride Ladakh in my beast this summer..:D

    Attached Files:

    #89
  10. Chanderjeet

    Chanderjeet IndiYeah !!

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2006
    Oddometer:
    5,839
    Location:
    Stockholm, Sweden

    True. That was my opinion. Let's not clutter this thread. Back to regular program...
    #90
  11. Gooch

    Gooch Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Oddometer:
    275
    Location:
    East of the river
    Subscribed.
    #91
  12. alvycolt45

    alvycolt45 Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 31, 2010
    Oddometer:
    37
    Location:
    I-80 Nevada-Utah border
    Great pics and posts, thanks for sharing!
    #92
  13. Joe Motocross

    Joe Motocross Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    326
    DAY 8:
    We come down to Yogi's mid morning. Same old going on here. Lots of customers waiting patiently. The runner isn't back yet. Yogi says don't worry, once his boy gets back we'll wrench on the bike until we finish it no matter how late we need to go!!
    [​IMG]


    In the meantime, it was time to take care of a cylinder stud that we'd broken off by accident the night of the disassembly. The stud was broken off flat and I wasn't seeing how we were going to drill it out with Yogi's tools. This is where I learned a good little trick to add to my bag. Yogi sent another apprentice up the street with Buuurrrt to extract it. A welder just tacked on a rod to the broken stud and we un-threaded it. Slick. (Note the welder's sub-standard eye protection) I've since used this method back in the states. Awesome.
    [​IMG]


    The Enfield mechanic triage technique continues with lots of Enfields coming in. Brakes and Clutch work is the most popular. Yogi's runner arrives back some time afternoon and we slowly get moved into the mix and start to scavenge our parts together.
    [​IMG]


    The sun goes down and the amount of beer we're putting away goes up. It's another TOTALLY CLASSIC scene at Yogi's with the random drunkards swinging by. Oh man, I'm telling you, some of these dudes were LOOSE!!! We're making headway though. The case is coming together but it's getting pretty late AND we're loaded again. Yogi is determined to keep wrenching but his eye's are starting to drift and roll back in his head!! As the debauchery continues it's obvious that Yogi's about done for the night. Amazingly we got the case assembled. It's well after midnight and there are a few stragglers that move on their way, stumbling down the street. Yogi finally calls it off and pulls down the roll away door and SLEEPS IN THE SHOP!! Too funny! We are impressed.
    [​IMG]
    #93
  14. Joe Motocross

    Joe Motocross Been here awhile

    Joined:
    May 23, 2007
    Oddometer:
    326
    DAY 9:
    We wake up and get another excellent breakfast up at the Nordaling. Serious, the food was awesome! We get down to Yogi's and get to it early before all the expected customers start showing up. We can't find a new stud for the cylinder. Bad news. Yogi thinks he's got one somewhere but Buurrt and I are thinking he's not going to produce it. He's got three giant burlap bags full of random parts which he starts dumping out on the step. This is too much!! Seriously, a huge pile of shit just strewn everywhere!! After a bunch of sifting Yogi finds the stud he's looking for. Too much!!
    [​IMG]


    The triage starts up again. Here's an Enfield with the clutch cover removed. Huh!! Imagine that?!! These smaller repairs are slowing our progress of course and next thing you know it's night time and we're heading to the liquor store AGAIN!!! This would prove to be the craziest night of them all.
    [​IMG]


    Now things are going back together rapidly but it is getting late again. We keep thinking that things are going to come to a halt when we can't scrounge up some of our parts but everything continues to be located and we keep piecing it together. Once again the random lurkers start to filter through. We are pretty excited as we can see light at the end of the tunnel. We continue to make liquor store runs to keep things flowing. We're drunk once again. We notice a very stinky smell that somehow we remember from the night before that happened at about the same time. We notice there's some water running down the side of the road, basically right under the bike we're working on. Come to find out the bus station up the road from us PULLS THE PLUG FROM THE BATHROOMS at about 10pm and the shit flows downhill!!! Freaking nasty!! Most of it runs off the road farther up but some comes right on by!!

    Things are mostly assembled at this point and it's time to check the timing. The Enfields have a series of gears that dictates the ignition timing. A few have notches that indicate their position but if I remember right there was at least one that wasn't marked for what ever reason. Yogi uses "the force" for placement of the last gear. He then uses a wrench to span the gears so we can kick the thing and see how far off his guess of the gear position is. The thing comes to life!! It's right on. At this point we're ecstatic!!
    <object height="344" width="425">


    <embed src="http://www.youtube.com/v/bjSI9xmnTLk?hl=en&fs=1" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowscriptaccess="always" allowfullscreen="true" height="344" width="425"></object>


    We continue to finish up the odds and ends and drink more beer. Yogi is feeling pretty comfortable with us as pals at this point and starts asking us about girls in his very broken english. He's seen some American porno flick and wants to know how the guys can go at it for so long!! We realize that there seems to be no such thing as "foreplay" in the Indian culture, at least from our perspective there. We are explaining that foreplay can extend the experience. Yogi doesn't know what to think of this and the thought of performing cunnulingus on a women has got him slack jawed!! Buuurrt and I are loosing it as we try to give Yogi a lesson in foreplay!! I'm trying to compare getting a women excited to starting an Enfield: you roll it over and it starts a slow idle. As things start to get warmed up everything starts to move easier!! I remember imitating an idling bike "bup…….bup……bup…..bup". Then a little faster "bup..bup..bup" and faster "bup bup bup" till you really twist it "bup bup bup braaaaaaawwwwwwwwwwwp"!!! Yogi gets it but can't even imagine. Things continue in an odd direction and Yogi shares some stuff with us that I'm not going to get into, it was just too much for this public forum!!

    Next it's back to the bike for the final adjustments and we square up with Yogi. The bill is $180 all together. Yogi wants us to give him a ride to his house up the road a few km as he doesn't want to sleep in the shop again. So he hops on the back of my bike and his apprentice hops on Buuurrts and it's off to Yogi's dirt hut where his wife and child are sleeping!!! Next thing you know we're in Yogi's place and he's yanking out photo albums of all these photos of him on various bikes doing various journeys while his wife and kid are trying to sleep!! It's a one room dwelling! We're a mess!! This is intense!! Finally, sometime near 2am it's time to bid Yogi farewell. Yogi tells us if we are going to do any more rides in India or Nepal he will be our mechanic and ride with us. The motorcycle is the common bond between us and this is no doubt a male bonding moment. We sling our legs over the bikes and swerve back to the Nordaling where we fill the girls in on the LOOSEST night yet!! Yogi is awesome and we will never forget him. Thanks Yogi!!
    [​IMG]
    #94
  15. squonker

    squonker Eat my shorts

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2006
    Oddometer:
    4,163
    Location:
    Yellowknife, NWT
    Bloody brilliant!! :clap:clap

    :lurk
    #95
  16. yamalama

    yamalama wet coaster

    Joined:
    Sep 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,555
    Location:
    Kelowna BC
    wow.
    great stuff.
    :clap:clap:clap
    #96
  17. Andyhorror

    Andyhorror Adventurer

    Joined:
    Dec 20, 2010
    Oddometer:
    66
    Location:
    Prison City MI
    kings among men:bow
    #97
  18. griffin146

    griffin146 Coming in Hot.....

    Joined:
    Sep 28, 2009
    Oddometer:
    144
    Location:
    Malaysia
    Cracked me up :rofl . Classic :lol3:lol3:clap:clap
    #98
  19. yellowknife

    yellowknife Is In Canada

    Joined:
    Dec 19, 2009
    Oddometer:
    717
    Location:
    Nova Scotia, Canada
    Great RR - i can think of worse places to be stuck other than your three day location.

    As for the complaining or whatever we call it - let's be honest - Everyone here would do the same thing. The personal feelings expressed in your writing are what make it interesting. When something is good tell us, and when something ticks you off tell us too. The pictures and the video of the repair are great and the CAN DO attitude is brilliant.

    SO keep on writing - this is a fun report to read.

    Yellowknife
    #99
  20. dbarile

    dbarile n00b

    Joined:
    Feb 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    9
    Much better than any travel brochure!

    Please continue.