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Discussion in 'Airheads' started by planktonnn, Aug 25, 2009.
Somewhere in http://advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=308801
Gah, charging circuit not working on the DMW. No shed to shelter me & it while ripping it apart (I'm already ripped apart). Starting with the obvious like the charging light bypass, cut in to remove the charging light, which, if the bulb blows stops the charge getting to the battery. Swapping out the return loop & checking bullet connectors has not solved it.
Next will check the various battery connections (2xNeg/1xPos, 2x replacement rec/reg, 2xBoyer), the block connector to/from the Electrix World combination rectifier/regulator (no diode board).
Then try connections under tank, before pulling the front cover (after dropping oil cooler) and get all in under there.
General order based on ease of access.
It's not on a fuse is it?
A communal carpark surrounded by flats full of fragile freaks is not a place where test running to check for success is welcome. Bloody place.
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Hey Planktonnn you are more than welcome to the Electrix World combination rectifier/regulator you sold me as i'm going back to the diode board and regulator wot motorworks sell. I got this set up on the "blue one" and want to do the same on the cafe.
I found the unit on the cafe liked to put 16 volts in to the battery and cook it. Dont know what yours was doing when working??.
Off to the dragon thursday, happy days
That'd be a good start I'll PM you to sort it, and can dig thru my electrics box & donate anything diode board-ish I find
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" height="670" width="963"><tbody><tr><td colspan="3">Diode board high output ( 2 valve twins 1970 on ) | ELA44063</td></tr> <tr><td valign="top">
</td></tr><tr><td align="center" valign="top">
Larger Image</td><td colspan="1" width="490"> Fits ALL BMW 2-valve twins made from 1970 - 1995 and comes complete with new wires.
The High Output diode board has a massive heat sink for the large-capacity diodes giving even better cooling to ensure maximum reliability. The new wires get rid of the brittle, tired originals that can limit charging performance and cause overheating. The new red wire provides a low resistance path for the charging current to return to the battery, a frequent weakness on many aging machines. PLEASE NOTE THERE ARE 2 STANDARD MOUNTING METHODS USED BY BMW. The diode board will either be mounted on rubbers ELA58131 or directly mounted to raised pillars on the front engine casing. Larger diameter earth wires are provided for installation on rubber-mounted applications, since the original earth wires are often inadequate. On diode boards mounted directly to the engine, all four mounting points are at earth potential.
This is the same diode board that comes with the 400 W, 33 amp charging system ELA40001, so it's definitely over engineered for the stock 20 amp or less charging system.
See the picture of ELA40000 for guidance on wiring and note the earth wires are only required if the rubber diode board mounts are used.
The screws shown in the picture are not supplied.
<table border="0" cellpadding="5" width="680"><tbody><tr><td colspan="3">Voltage regulator electronic standard output ( All 2 valve twins 1970 on ) | ELA44409</td></tr> <tr><td align="center" valign="top">
Larger Image</td><td colspan="1" width="490"> See ELA44409A for mechanical regulator or ELA44410 for high output electronic version </td></tr></tbody></table>
</td><td valign="top" width="180">£59.23 INC VAT
£49.36 EX VAT
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Quote: Somebody - Remember planktonnnn that the resistence of the charging light is what juices up the alternator to produce a charge, so cutting out or bypassing that charging light will not help at all......?
Not sure what's happening here with posts & re-edit/nuking so unclear who said what when, but in relation to the above, I've looped the bulb feed & bulb return lines into one-another from the start & it's been fine except when I've lost continuity (eg bad bullet connector), but something somewhere has now stopped the charging circuit running freely i.e. when the bike is running there is only about 12.25v measurable at the battery, which leads me to believe something's cockeyed and it's running the ignition & spark off the battery without putting anything back in, as it usually shows 13.5 or more when running. I'm going to have to dig thru/ough it sequentially to find the problem, starting with the bits that are easiest to reach, tho/ough I may find the basis for the issue resides under the front cover. Whatever happens undoubtedly the problem will be in the last place I look...
But then my much hated maternal unit used to say with much sincerity 'Why is it you always find what you're looking for in the last place you look?' - seemingly ignorant of the simplism that one wouldn't carry on looking?
The answer, in case there's any doubt, is to focus on all of them proportionately commensurate to their scale...
Ooh, I think I know this one, don't tell me, er... is it d?
Hatcherly......it's 'F' I forked up an edit/quote/reply/edit/reply/quote/quote/quote on my post about the
charging lamp thang which started off the whole 'a' - 'b' business. I have started (?) to lose my marbles
after my incremental age-related event of last week......it's not easy being 57, flat broke and aimless,
but as they say, someone's got to do it and it might as well be me. On a positive note, I donated a
Chinese copy of a Piaggio scooter to a car'n'bike based project for young criminals today, which made
me feel as if I'd achieved something, which was nice.........anyway, I'd like to take this opportunity to
remark upon the fact that this thread has passed the quarter-million-views mark; something of an
achievement, I'd say, which suggests that maybe, maybe, it should be dragged out the back and shot.
I only mention this because I seem to remember a passing reference to nuking it on one of planktonnn's
recent posts, and as there was no reaction from anyone at that time, I thought I'd bump the notion back
up to the frontal-cortex of the "Insert.......etc" mind/brain continuum and see what happened, if anything.
Ah, well, strangely, there was no dialogue here, but instead I received some lengthy impassioned direct messages beseeching non-deletion...
Does the charging circuit work? If so, I'll take it I'll come back with something of a more reasoned critique later
front end looks a bit skinny would be better with fork gaters . nice tho non the less
I too can see gaiters on the front, though I'd rather see the thicker K series front end (like mine) with the stiffer top yolk & better brakes, but then you lose the spoked front wheel. I like the look of the cable/undertank res front brake solution, but dislike its lagging feel & detest the pivoty callipers whose name escapes me as I type... H/light & bars are nice, I think I'd be looking at a short front mudfenderguard similar in shape to the rear mud fenderguard, which by the way is slightly too short for me, but is longer than what I'd put on the front. I wonder how the rear plate would be done & how it would effect the lines?
The tank is nice but I prefer doing this with the K ally tank as it doesn't rust, or at least not in the same way, but then this one may well be lacquered or at least greezed to stave off t' rust.
Engine looks nice but being a messy sod I'd rather see it after 10k miles with a healthy dulling fur of ally oxidisation. I prefer RAASK reasets as the more foot forward position is not my preference, and for those I know with bigger feet the standard position means they end up kicking the carb bowls. I like the pipes, as they're a much more efficient length than mine, but not too long, stopping by the rear axle. I would have thought this would help with breathing/scavenging, I'm guessing at lower revs as the track/power/dyno based pipes I see are most often longer, but this is a pure guess.
I know that the local (and best) Dave the mechanic runs straight thru/ough 40mm longinsh pipes on his cafe boxer, with megaphone outers welded on to look like silencers, but there are only the smallest of slitted inlets from the thru/ough pipe into the megaphones. I don't recall if he has a front or rear (or both) cross pipe, but I think his exhaust is intended to work with his flowed heads, 90s carbs & 336 cam at higher revs - so I'm guessing long for high rev gain, and maybe short for low? Either way these look a nice length, and I've always liked a bit of exhaust wrap.
Tyres are nice, tho/ough I don't know what they'd turn like? Seat is too long for my needs as everyone steadfastly refuses to get on the back, and I'm not insured for a pillion anyway. Is it just me or are there really miserly rear pegs, if any at all. A double seat & no rear pegs would be an MOT fail at Micky Spermans bike shop, the one shop in the area where you sort of get made to feel uncomfortable for inconveniencing them when you pop in, or maybe that's just me? I prefer the stubby 'cut off behind the shock mounts' subframe, but then I think it needs bracing between the remaining top tubes to discourage the twist I imagine I can feel at the back of my hacked/unbraced rear end.
Can't see a battery mount box under the gearbox, so I wonder what's going on there? Total loss system? I note what seems to be a breather/pod/filter for the crankcase breather pipe at the top rear of the engine, below the petcocktap? I like no indicators or mirrors. I always try to keep a good awareness of what's around me but at the end of the day get keep out of MY way
Overall, no doubt better than I could manage so all respect to whoever did it, and its certainly more shiny than I would end up with. I do sort of prefer them to look lived on & not worth nicking, you know?