Insert clever airhead based title here ....

Discussion in 'Airheads' started by planktonnn, Aug 25, 2009.

?

I have been to the county of Fuckshire, it was ...

  1. Nice?

    32 vote(s)
    13.4%
  2. Nasty?

    35 vote(s)
    14.6%
  3. Nasty but nice?

    173 vote(s)
    72.4%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    I wonder about oil. Specifically I wonder about whether people use engine oil which is not specifically labelled for motosickles. Now I've seen an informative discussion about this somewhere in a BMW based group on FB some time ago but I can't recall its contents, or where it was and I don't have the time, patience or bandwidth/speed to find it.

    I imagine it revolves around some components/additives in one that you wouldn't find in another or vice versa. Sometimes I've seen this referring to combined engine/gearbox contexts where the inducement of clutch slip may be an issue. But of course that's not an issue with Airheads... Everywhere I look I see car labelled oil substantially cheaper than bike labelled oil, and the angle of the discussion referred to above was that (some) general car oil is fine, given certain conditions/blends, which I can't remember...

    So it comes down to this - what's the cheapest oil I can run? Any recommendations on W rating (for use in the Former United Commonwealth Kingdoms) and thoughts on synth/semisynth etc. ?

    Now I know that peeple are somewhat anal about good quality oil & regular changes in Beemers, but you have to remember it's the DMW we're talking about here. It's on way over 170k miles, and it's a bit of a leaky wreck, so do bare that in mind yeah?


    Now I know that the venerable Snowbum has probably said pretty much all that can be said here, but I'm interested in divergent opinions from mere mortals such as your good selves :freaky
  2. Dirtyboydeadly

    Dirtyboydeadly AKA. Shineyboydudley

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    20/50 car oil. Proper motorcycle oil is expensive due to combined wet clutch and gear box but u know that 😁
  3. Thorazine

    Thorazine Likes exhaust fumes

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    Funny you mention it. I happen to be doing this right now:

    [​IMG]

    It's 20/50 Castrol, SG rated. This is motorcycle oil, but only because it was on sale for $4.99 (£2.98) a liter. But once I run out, I'd have no probs using any regular 20/50 car oil, like DBD says (as long as its SG rated).
  4. Thorazine

    Thorazine Likes exhaust fumes

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    . . . and I live in the same state as Snowbum, so it's like getting it straight from the Bum's mouth*. :1drink


    *at least im pretty sure he lives on the California side of beautiful Lake Tahoe :dunno
  5. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    Oil straight from Snowbum's mouth?
  6. Thorazine

    Thorazine Likes exhaust fumes

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    20/50 SG, Bubba. Barrels of it, all for Plank. Freeing up his £s for more crumpets & kidney pie.

    No need to even bring up spotted dick and fitless cock. :rolleyes
  7. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    [​IMG]
    Originator unknown


    My left boot is now thoroughly embroiled in oil, seemingly thrown out from the rear of the left cylinder, from between the cylinder & the head by the pressured left side inlet rocker oil feed. It's seemingly certainly there rather than from the head/rocker join.

    So whilst I have sourced some viable cheap oil to save up for there seems little point in putting it in as it all just comes out. That's even ignoring the fact that I must save up for a bendy oil filter of the oil cooler type too to make a lube swap viable. While there has been a little misting on that side (mostly from the rocker cover as usual) for some time, 22 miles into a 25 mile run I felt my left peg getting slippy. I stroked the base of my boot and my gloved hand returned lubricated. I thought fuck it and did the last three miles and then on static examination found increased weapage/drippage from the position described above.

    Now, I think I know what's going on in that when I recently did the valve clearances the top-right-rocker-bolt was unwilling to tighten right up to torque on the left jug, whereas the other 3 stud bolts & two head bolts on that side (& the other) all nipped up to book, in the diagonal/top/bottom order the book specifies. It felt like either 1] the stud was turning into the block (& therefore towards the crank journal as the block thread is, to my memory, not blind but runs thru/ough into the crankcase? *), or b] that the thread is unhappy at the rocker end (or {...insert your deity...} forbid in the block) and the bolt was slipping like they do when a thread's eaten (i.e. tightens/pops looser/Rpt./tighten to just before clicks & hope). I didn't think at the time but I could have swapped the socket I was using for a spanner which might have given some vague diagnostic indication as to whether the stud was turning or bolt slipping, maybe. Of course the entire issue may derive from some other problem, but this looseness, to my inbred untellect, seems a probable source of the problem.

    I have some other studs, with good threads so I can perhaps pull the left inlet rocker block & inspect the threads on the top stud and then depending on what I find I can either 1] stop the current stud spinning long enough to get a good purchase with the bolt to facilitate correct torqueage, or b] pressure the current bolt on the current stud with another bolt behind it on visibly good thread (hmmmm - bodge) or III] I can try to remove the offending stud (if the thread at the rocker end is indeed borked) and replace it with one of the others I have with the jug otherwise in-situ, and with quasi-judicious measurement hope to seat it in the block far enough to be strong but not far enough to protrude into the crankcase.

    This throws up a number of variables, the largest being that if I look at the 8 studs in a spare set, each side has one that's longer than the others, and I don't rightly recall which of the four placements that one goes into. I suppose that if I am able to get the current incumbent out (without snagging the o-ring at the cylinder base on the way in or out, tho/ough it should be compressed in place?) I can of course compare it and replicate what I did on the original engine build, even if that were wrong. At least it would be the same kind of wrong and I might be able to get the rocker top bolt up to torque, which may seal the oil leak... But that's a grate big pile of maybe.

    The pics I have sourced online seem mostly to show sets of studs all the same length, however the two sets I have and the left & right sets installed on the bike certainly had the length differential on one stud. So woty'all got where & what's the general opinion as to how to (incompetently) proceed? The back bolt bodge option may be a short-term fix which may also indicate if a seal is possible, and the application of a bit of gunk cleaner may show the location of the leak to aid with me knowing what the fuck it's doing...

    In the meantime the bike is usable for short hops, but anything over a few miles is out. I can't describe how it feels to have made so much progress lately to be dumped right back on my ass. That observation is relevant for the bike but might as well be applied to my wider life. If you only knew, but a gentleman never speaks of such matters, only gently infers as I have done there...



    * Do tell me if I'm wrong, but that's what I recall, and that's what I have in front of me.
  8. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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  9. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    Today is International Larry Sanders day.
  10. chollo9

    chollo9 Screwed the Pooch

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    It's the chorus, It's the chorus . . .

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  11. Lornce

    Lornce Lost In Place

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  12. Thorazine

    Thorazine Likes exhaust fumes

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    Outstanding. best oil change ever
  13. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    After fiddling & investigation it seems to be the thread in the block, fuck bugger piss.

    Well that's me shot then :baldy
  14. Dirtyboydeadly

    Dirtyboydeadly AKA. Shineyboydudley

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    Bugger shit piss exactly&#128565;
  15. blaine.hale

    blaine.hale Long timer

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    Correction, THIS is the best oil change ever.
    <iframe width="640" height="480" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Ft1IkFZkJts" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
  16. rambozo

    rambozo Been here awhile

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    That sucks balls a bit planktonn, unless you can find a decent block with crank/camshaft
    etc for very cheap monies, helicoiling/time serting your own is the cheapest fix you'll get

    I agree with Blaine, that is the best oil change ever:lol3
  17. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    Please insert your own (loooooong) list of variegated expletives for all occasions.
  18. Thorazine

    Thorazine Likes exhaust fumes

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    Fixed that typo for ya, Rambozo (though that conrod in the oil was good :lol3).
  19. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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  20. planktonnn

    planktonnn .also, i am a twat

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    The best would be a collision of the two: Conciousness of one, humour of the other. I have made it in my head and it is very funny with a hint of revolutionary education.

    It espouses the view that were, say 60% of votes found to be uncast in a given local, national or international election then 60% of decisions must be left unmade in the term that follows. It works on the basis that a good percentage of those 60% of issues would benefit from no authoritarian interjection and 'things' would be 'better'.

    It really is a remarkable virtual video full of fun & fundament.

    Of course both existent videos are inaccurate regarding process. The best thing to do is to set the bike up with a leak so other external components are periodically lubricated and you cycle thru/ough the engine fluid by regularly topping up the losses...

    Oil change as suggested @ 3k miles? More like progressive renewal over 300 miles.