Iran - Alti ustu macera (...an adventure after all) 2 x KTM 990

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by meto, Nov 17, 2008.

  1. V@lentino

    V@lentino Inspektor

    Joined:
    Sep 7, 2008
    Oddometer:
    837
    Location:
    Vankouver
    :clap Great RR, glad to see that you got it all back and you can pursue the journey.

    Just another witness to people's honesty and kindness to travellers in a foreing land.

    Thank you for sharing,

    I wait for more:lurk
    #61
  2. Incredulous

    Incredulous Peanut Gallery

    Joined:
    Dec 6, 2006
    Oddometer:
    579
    Location:
    The O.V.
    Wow, I am stunned by that stroke of luck. Fantastic adventure!

    :lurk
    #62
  3. FREDO RIDER

    FREDO RIDER I'm enjoying the route !

    Joined:
    Mar 27, 2006
    Oddometer:
    704
    Location:
    Los Angeles, California
    Great Adventure report... Thanks for sharing !!!:clap:clap:clap
    #63
  4. REALGRAVEROBBER

    REALGRAVEROBBER LEAVING GRAVES EMPTY

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2008
    Oddometer:
    452
    Location:
    Billings, Montana
    Inspiring adventure!

    Such warm expressions and happiness in these pictures!

    This is the stuff of peace, decreasing the differences between people despite borders or fabric of flags.

    Thank you for this!
    #64
  5. BSK

    BSK Ohhh mist! Die Bullen!!!!

    Joined:
    Apr 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    409
    Location:
    The mountains in Germany
    THAT IS AWESOME!!! I could have given them 10% since that saved you guys a lot of money but either way: Keep those reports coming!
    #65
  6. MikeV

    MikeV Testicular Fortitude

    Joined:
    Jan 11, 2008
    Oddometer:
    38
    Location:
    Montreal, Canada
    Very cool RR; what awesome scenery!!!

    :D
    #66
  7. divingbiker

    divingbiker True Blue Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    196
    Location:
    Louisiana Gulf Coast
    What an adventure. Great story and super pictures. Please continue.
    #67
  8. dr.vedat

    dr.vedat Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2007
    Oddometer:
    23
    Location:
    balikesir, turkey
    THE BAG WAS FOUND!!!! oleeeeeeeeee:freaky bu habere sizin kadar sevindim.devam arkadaşlar
    #68
  9. justhappy

    justhappy Ride The World

    Joined:
    Nov 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    8
    Location:
    Antalya / Turkey
    Harikasınız Meto. Devamını sabırsızlıkla bekliyorum.
    :freaky:lurk:lurk
    #69
  10. meto

    meto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    56
    Location:
    Izmir, Turkey
    09 October, Thursday
    Tehran - Qom - Kashan (257 km)


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    We were free at last. We woke up gloriously. We missed our bikes. First we went to the Embassy again to give the travel document back. After that we stopped by the Foreign Affairs to see if there's anything to do there, but it was closed. It was thursday, so we didn't understand the reason. We left the documents to the reception at Hafez Hotel for Ibrahim to pick up and return to the Foreign Affairs later.
    We were so excited to move on. It was like the second half of the trip. After going east for a week, it was time to go south. The original plan was to reach Yazd but it was noon when we finished the formalities. So, we decided to call it a day in Kashan. There was a nice highway to Kashan. Although our first attempt failed, we gave it another chance and entered the toll road. I usually don't take the highway but the old road was just going paralel, no attractions. This time, there were no problems and we passed through several checkpoints and tolls without paying. They just waved their hands at the toll booth meaning "Go on, pass".

    After passing Qom, we started to feel the desert. Endless tobacco-colored plain... While we had a break along the road, i noticed that Mete's little Sony camera which we used for quick shots was stolen from my tank bag's map pocket. At the gas stop in Tehran, it was immensly crowded. After filling my bike up i noticed that our coolant level was a tad low. So, left the bike unattended to get some antifreeze. When i returned, a homeless-looking guy was pointing to the tankbag and saying "mobile, mobile!". I didn't understand him so tried to get rid of him. He was trying to tell me that the mobile phone (camera) was stolen. Sustaining happiness from the found bag got us over the issue quickly.

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    The colors of the road signs are different in Iran than Turkey. Green means normal road, blue means toll road.

    We stopped in a gas station on the highway. It wasn't so different from the ones in Europe. While waiting for our lunch, i was checking the bikes from the window. During a check, i saw a 1150 GS near our bikes. :eek1 At the same time the guy came in. I waved him to come near us. Aldo, was from Italy, travelling alone. After covering Turkey, his plan is to tour around Iran than return home. We ate together. After lunch while taking photos Aldo said he would like to join us for tonight.

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    We are always pleased to have a fellow rider with us. After a short while we arrived to Kashan a looked for a hotel. We decided on Ehsan Hotel, but it was full due to poem festival that night. A guy from the hotel hopped on my back and guided us to Noghli House.

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    The place was just fantastic. We were so lucky to find an authentic place like this. The owner Ekber, offered us sherbet (a sweet drink).

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    There were total of 4 rooms. The other 2 was occupied, and they left their backpacks in the rooms just closing the curtain.

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    The room was so simple and cute. There were mats, pillow, blankets and an air-conditioner. Not bad at all for 26 EUR/room for a night.
    We started to walk to the traditional houses around. Children tried to open Mete's panniers, so Ekber opened his neighbour's closed garage and we parked the bikes there.

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    Streets of Kashan...

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    Little guys were yelling and running after us "peen pen!!".

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    Khan-e Abbasian

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    Khan-e Ameriha

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    Agha Ameri restorated the house in 18th century, when he thought his dad's house was not that big. Ameri was the major of Kashan, and became wealthy securing the trade roads from Kerman to Tehran. This was Iran' s biggest house in that period.

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    When we left Ameri's house it was getting dark.

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    These knockers have a story of course. Men use the stick-like one and women use the ring-like one. They have a different sound, so people in the house know the gender of their visitor. Women answer women and men answer men.

    Aldo took some stuff from his room, than we went to listen the pom festival.

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    They greeted us and showed us place to sit.

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    This was a memorial to Sohrab Sepehri, who was one of the best modern poet of all in Iran. They talked about his work. Two college students translated some of the speech to us, After half an hour we were bored because of the language barrier and left.

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    Ekber's wife fixed us some local dish. Sef bademjan was delicious. A true local food.

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    After dinner we met the other inhabitants of the Noghli House. 5 Chineese, 1 Belgiuqe and 1 New Zelander. A super relaxed environment. Chineese girls don't wear their scarf.

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    The chineese couple danced some salsa. It was extraordinary. Information was exghanged among us and it was time to sleep a great day off.
    #70
  11. Twit!

    Twit! Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 18, 2005
    Oddometer:
    58
    Location:
    South of UK.
    Fantastic! All the pictures reminded me of my time there, can't believe that was three years ago now! Would love to go back one day. Did you go south through Esfahan? Awesome place, but if not the perfect reason to go back!!!

    Do your KTMs come from Ata-Moto? If so say hi to the guys, that shop was a real find on the way down.
    #71
  12. meto

    meto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
    56
    Location:
    Izmir, Turkey
    Yep, on our way back.

    No, they are from Spormoto.
    #72
  13. GRBTA

    GRBTA GRBTA

    Joined:
    May 3, 2004
    Oddometer:
    106
    Location:
    San Diego, California
    Great Report! Thanks
    #73
  14. GB

    GB . Administrator

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2002
    Oddometer:
    61,497
    Fantastic!! :clap And you must be so relieved to find the passport bag! Thanks for the superb updates and great pics :thumb

    Would love to see Esfahan :lurk
    #74
  15. ChuckV

    ChuckV Itinerant Settler

    Joined:
    Nov 19, 2008
    Oddometer:
    57
    Location:
    Tallahassee
    Thanks for taking the time to write this up and take the pics. Iran is a mystery to many of us and it is refreshing to know that we aren't that different.:clap
    #75
  16. Mehran

    Mehran GroupRides.net

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2007
    Oddometer:
    13
    Location:
    Belmont, CA
    What a wonderful adventure. Thanks for sharing your memories with us :clap

    Makes me very home-sick :cry
    #76
  17. bigdag

    bigdag vicarious rider, surfer..

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2006
    Oddometer:
    856
    Location:
    Hunter valley (Watagans, Barringtons, Liverpools)
    Very refreshing to hear Iranians are some of the nicest humans.

    Well done.
    #77
  18. viatormundi

    viatormundi Citizen of the world

    Joined:
    Apr 24, 2005
    Oddometer:
    644
    Location:
    Mallorca-Spain
    Great adventure and a great report. Thx for sharing Meto.

    Maceranizi heyecanla izliyorum ben de. KTM 990, cok dogru secim :thumb
    #78
  19. StinkyCheese

    StinkyCheese Red or Green?

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2008
    Oddometer:
    810
    Location:
    Las Cruces, NM
    :bow :bow

    Fantastic RR and such beautiful pictures!
    #79
  20. skeptic

    skeptic Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2006
    Oddometer:
    296
    Location:
    SoCal
    Thank you for your wonderful report.

    The people you have met seem for the most part extremely gracious and hospitable. I believe this to be universal, once you get personal and avoid the stereotypes which are so commonplace. Unfortunately the truth is that one bad apple can spoil the whole bushel, at least in the eyes people who are not critical thinkers. Here in America there are some very prejudiced and violent people who call themselves Christian, just like there are violent persons in the middle east who call say they are Muslim. Both religions espouse peace and kindness. There are always the extremists.

    When we traveled China, even the "minders" (tour guides) who must accompany the tourists eventually intimated what really goes on and were extremely thoughtful and pleasant.

    Thanks again.
    #80