Iran - Alti ustu macera (...an adventure after all) 2 x KTM 990

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by meto, Nov 17, 2008.

  1. Kmart

    Kmart Adventurer

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    Lowell, MA
    Fantastic!
    My sister-in-law is from Iran and somehow she always painted this sinister picture of her country, or perhaps it was only my imagination. In any case, thanks for sharing a much brighter side of Iran. Great report and stunning pictures.
  2. meto

    meto Adventurer

    Joined:
    Sep 8, 2006
    Oddometer:
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    Izmir, Turkey
    Thank you guys for your kind comments !

    Its a Nikon D300 with 18-70mm f3,5/4,5 and a 50mm f1.8
  3. meto

    meto Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Izmir, Turkey
    12 October, Sunday
    Yazd - Taft - Surmaq - Persepolis - Marv Dasht - Shiraz (459 km)


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    It's been a rule to wake up at 05:00 on the riding days. Since we sleep early, it was not so hard and the body gets used to it.
    It was so cold in the morning, thanks to the desert climate. We got warm after hours the sun came up.
    We stopped to shop for nun (a tortilla-like thing they eat as bread), cheese, cream chocolate and fruit juice. When we found a good spot, we had our breakfast on the side of the road. You cannot find a restaurant so early and this is the fastest and more enjoyable way to eat.

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    After breakfast we picked up a good tempo and got close to Persepolis. During riding, a car passed me and the driver was waving frantically and wanted us to stop. I was thinking "There goes another adventure."
    He came near me laughing "slow slow, inar yeyin". All this because he wanted us to have some pomegranates. :D

    Persepolis

    It's the biggest heritage from the Achaemenid Empire. Monumental staricases, exquisite reliefs and imposing gateways gives you an idea of how great this city was.
    It is Persian in ideology and design, but truly international in its superb architechture and artictic execution.
    Persepolis remains as the greatest surviving masterpiece of the ancient Near Eastern civilisations.
    It was built by Darius I after he took the throne in 518 BC. It has been home to various kings for about 150 years. Finally, Alexander The Great burned it to the ground.
    The ancient city was lost til 1930s. Extensive excavations revealed its glories once again.

    If you are planning to visit Persepolis don't forget your hat, because there are little shadow. It was even too hot in october, so i can't imagine the heat from may to september.

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    The rock-hewn tombs of Artaxerxes II and III was a long way up, so i couldn't climb and waited Mete at the cafeteria.

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    After Persepolis, there were 60 kms left to Shiraz. There were road constructions in the city, so it was hard to find the Hotel Anvari. Hotel was not good but "110 Hamburgers" across the street was a treat.
    After a little rest and some wandering around we went to Darvazeh-ye Quran for some great views, tea and qalyan.

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    We were hungry again and through the Vakil Bazaar we found the Sharzeh Traditional Restaurant.

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    Before sleep i took a shot of 50 EUR worth of Rials. These are the biggest banknotes.

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  4. HeadingNorth

    HeadingNorth Keep On The Gas!!

    Joined:
    Jun 11, 2006
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    987
    Location:
    Boise Idaho
    This is the most interesting and informative report in the history of this forum IMHO!! Thank You very much. We have to take this ride through you. This will be as close to Iran as most of us can get. Please keep it coming!!!
  5. viatormundi

    viatormundi Citizen of the world

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    Mallorca-Spain
    :clap :clap
    Fantastic report and pictures. Looking forward to the next episode.
  6. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

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    I couldn't agree more :)
    looks like Turkey will only be the 1st step, isnt it ?:D
  7. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

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    Wauuuu !
    this RR !
    Some really good pictures.
    A well written text.
    result: a excellent RR !
    Congrats and thank you.

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    Had a smile with this one.
    It's an old french car. A Citro├źn "Diane". Was my grandfather's car. :wink: (I even drove it when I was a child)
    Nice.

    /thierry
  8. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

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    in front of Mare Nostrum
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    Quite funny also to see a 1200GS topcase on a 990adv ! :D
  9. Deuce

    Deuce Crazy Canuck

    Joined:
    Nov 30, 2001
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    Location:
    Vancouver Island, Bitchin' Columbia, Canada
    I wonder how many times it fell off :evil Great trip report.

    Too bad it is so hard for Canadians to get an Iranian visa since the death of a Canadian journalist in an Iranian prison. I would love to go traveling there.
  10. kktos

    kktos on a bright side of life

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    :Dindeed.
    this is weird ?!? :huh
    I had understood if u had said the it's difficult for an Iranian to have a Canadian visa but not the opposite !
  11. Desert Yeti

    Desert Yeti Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Thanks so much for this great ride report. Your photos and stories relay the beauty of a place many of us will never get to see. Thanks for the window into Iran. :D
  12. meto

    meto Adventurer

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    My riding buddy Mete bought his '06 ADV a week before the trip, so 12GS topcase was on it. I couldn't agree more to the usual falling of habit of these, but not this one. :clap I guess the pre-owner couldn't manage the original rack so he just bolted on.
  13. VampyreMP

    VampyreMP Frustrated Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Traverse City, MI
    This RR is fantastic! It's always nice to get a report from a country I know little about. Thanks for the great pictures and narrative. Keep it coming!:clap
  14. Deuce

    Deuce Crazy Canuck

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    Vancouver Island, Bitchin' Columbia, Canada
    Good for Mete. I had to use extra straps for safety on mine. I now ride a KTM 950 and do not have to worry about that anymore :clap

    My wife wants us to ship our bikes ( two KTM 950's) to circle the Mediterranean. She has visited Turkey and loves it there so wants to return.
    Thanks again for the great photos and stories.
    :1drink
  15. BlueBuell

    BlueBuell Banned

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    Man, what an incredible ride report! :clap
  16. HeadingNorth

    HeadingNorth Keep On The Gas!!

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    Location:
    Boise Idaho
    More,More,More

    :lurk :lurk :bow :wings
  17. DelicateLittleFlower

    DelicateLittleFlower WooooHooooo!!!!!

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    Thank you for this!

    The photos are fantastic!

    :clap
  18. meto

    meto Adventurer

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    Location:
    Izmir, Turkey
    13 October, Monday
    Shiraz (0 km)


    After breakfast first attraction to see is the Arg-e Karim Khan (Karim Khan Castle).

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    It was built in the early Zand period and formed part of the royal court that Karim Khan had hoped would develop to rival Esfahan. The exterior is mundane, with high walls punctuated by four 14m-high circular towers.

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    Inside the Arg is a large, open courtyard filled with citrus trees and a pool as always.

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    After this a long walking tour started and we covered Serai Mushir, Vakil Bazaar and Masjed-e Vakil.

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    By the way, sightseeing is not my favourite thing to do. I always prefer nature. But we motivated ourselves saying "When are we going to come back here again ?"

    After lunch and a fair amount of fruit juice we took a taxi to Bagh-e Eram.
    I must inform you about taxis. Every car in Iran is a taxi. When you stand beside a main alley any given car will stop. Most of the time it's not a taxi, but a common Iranian who will give you a ride with the same cost ofcourse. It's illegal but a totally normal thing.

    Bagh-e Eram will impress any botanist with its cypress trees. The many hidden corners are also very popular among young Shirazis.
    The gardens are centred around a pretty pool beside Kakh-e Eram (Eram Palace), which is not open to public.

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    The gardens are managed by Shiraz University, which chooses to charge foreigners 10 times the local price (Like we do in Ephesus, sorry).

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    This is how we look like in the Iranian streets.

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    It's very tiring to carry the tripod and a Nikon D300 and a Canon HD camera everywhere we go. You can imagine the attention we got with all of the equipment, just crazy.

    Mete was nagging about having a haircut for three days. Finally we found a saloon and he left his hair in the hands of a Shirazi murderer and that' s the damage.

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    There are no separate washbowls for every customer. After the cut you wash your head in a not so hygenic washbowl in the shop. Also a funny thing, they have the pressurized water and air sprayers at the back of the chairs, like a dentist. I later learned that barbers used to pull teeth too in the old times.

    After the terror :lol3 in the barbershop we returned to our hotel.
    Guess who lost the rocks, paper, scissors. Me. unfortunately.

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    We went to bed early after a good meal in a good restaurant.
  19. Uglyprimate

    Uglyprimate UglyPirate

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    Spectacular!

    I am constantly amazed at how ADV allows views into places and cultures we can't even imagine.

    I get educated more every day. I had no idea Iran offered so much beauty and history.
  20. kejago

    kejago Kev. Haute Savoie, France

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    Superb! :clap :bow