Irishman attempts San Fran - end of the world? Whilst working full time.

Discussion in 'Ride Reports - Epic Rides' started by purrretrog, Oct 14, 2017.

  1. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2017
    Oddometer:
    50
    made the move from Quito-Cuenca(466km) today, Ecuador is an awesome country, spent most the day above the clouds, drives like today are what the dream was all about.

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    Had the bike for 2 months tomorrow, pretty funny that ive put more miles on it in these two months than the previous owner did since 2009! Everyone seems to be talking about Bitcoin at the moment, fun fact, I actually bought my bike with 1 bitcoin, 2 months ago($4k), that same coin is worth $16,247 at the time of writing!

    Back on the saddle
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    Starting to see the Inca culture making a presence, some real interesting garments, although I have to admit I was a little jealous at times, it gets pretty cold up here!

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    Cuenca to my surprise actually feels like the states in some parts, the way some of the neighbourhoods are set up, didnt expect to see that. Going to let the weather decide what I do tomorrow, rain forecasted, so its that stays true ill stick around, if not ill make my way to Peru.

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    #41
  2. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Passed through into Peru, was nice to have a fairly smooth border crossing, long may they continue.

    Most of Peru so far has been desert and beach towns, planning to bomb down to Lima in the next couple of days, plenty of gusty winds along the way, didnt get over 40mph for a few hours today.
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    Trying to decide if ill go to Bolivia or straight to Chile from Cusco, on the one hand it would be great to see the salt flats, but on the other, ive heard food poisoning is common, and the internet is terrible/non existent, which would cause problems with work. At the moment my plan is to stay at a hostel in Cusco and judge based on the advice of other travelers.
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    #42
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  3. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2017
    Oddometer:
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    Another tough driving day, the wind really takes its toll on you.

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    Surprisingly the desert is the best temperature for driving so far. Stopped to have dinner in a town called Casma, I got talked into having a few beers and as a result ive called it a night here. Ive set the ambitious task of Cusco in by Sunday, that would give me a full days rest before Machu Pichu and perhaps Rainbow Mountain.

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    #43
  4. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Getting to Cusco before the weekend proved to be close to impossible, Im in Pisco, Still some 16 hour drive from Cusco. Not out of laziness, just sometimes I make plans with no real thought.

    Spent a night in a hostal in Lima, was betting in the bar and as a result I think most of the hostal thought I was a complete degenerate, got plenty of questions as to what/why im doing it, I think they likely didnt believe me and assumed I was a degenerate, but such is the nature of the job :)

    The locals are surprised I chose this route over the mountainous option, to be honest its just by chance, google maps has largely chosen the route, but these desert roads are something ive never experienced before, and after spending the last few weeks driving through mountains, im glad ive done it.

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    My friends had their Christmas dinner this evening, something I usually get home for, kinda gutting to miss it, the trip has given me a new found love for home and friends/family, something ive never really appreciated, even whilst being away for years at a time. I guess theres something incredibly therapeutic about driving a motorbike that gives us these moments of clarity.

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    Should get to Cusco by Wednesday. I hear its a nice town so might hang out for awhile, check out Machu Picchu and perhaps Rainbow mountain.
    #44
  5. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
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    Stopped for the night in Puquio, A small town with more stray dogs than ive ever seen, and they seem to enjoy chasing the bike :(

    The drive has been epic, although im somewhat beaten from the last week on the road, bar sunday, ive driven >5 hours/day for the past 9 days. So starting to take its toll on my back.

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    Started the day in the desert, several hours later there was snow!

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    For the first time on the trip I stayed in somewhere not found on the internet, was too tired to do the searching, so just jumped into the first hostal I seen, I got pretty lucky and the room turned out perfect, for $10/night(!).

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    Back to the road
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    #45
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  6. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    The drive from Puquio-Cusco was easily the toughest to date. 10 hours through the mountains, dodging traffic and dogs, everyone ive met has talked about the dangers of the trucks here, but god dammit its the perros . >20 times I got chased by dogs yesterday, ranging from a cute thing 6 inches off the ground scuttling after the bike, to groups of dogs trying to block the road, or just seeing a huge Labrador bombing towards the bike as im going 75mph. But they have become predictable, they crouch down, scratch their paws and dip their head just before launching the attack, this gives me the 1-2secs needed to change lane or throttle it past, keeps me on my toes.

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    Seen my first Alpacas today, and in true human fashion, resulted in me having one for dinner that evening.

    Sorry mate
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    Seen some random things on the trip, but yesterday, seeing a lone Flamingo in a lake on top of a mountain was insane, didnt even realise they would go to such places, the lake was surrounded by ice. Would have made for a great pic, but unfortunately was too cold/tired/beaten to take one :(

    Collapsed into my hostal in Cusco, think im going to spend a few days doing nothing but roam the internet and drink beer.

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    #46
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  7. Blind Warrior

    Blind Warrior Lost in the Ozone

    Joined:
    Oct 12, 2009
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    531
    Location:
    San Clemente, CA
    I'm enjoying the honesty of your posts along with the photos and the narrative.
    #47
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  8. kojack06

    kojack06 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 21, 2010
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    942
    Location:
    Temple, TX
    Your description of the Yellow Fever vaccination brought back memories...
    #48
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  9. chudzikb

    chudzikb Been here awhile

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    The pic of the laptop with the site up, is, quite frankly priceless! Well done.
    #49
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  10. Romero

    Romero Been here awhile

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    Location:
    Morelia
    Great photo and good beer!!
    #50
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  11. de crowe

    de crowe de crowe

    Joined:
    May 19, 2007
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    51
    Location:
    ireland
    great stuff, really enjoying this, ride safe.
    #51
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  12. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    Thanks guys, appreciate the support.

    Checked out Machu Picchu the other day, I booked it with the hostel I was staying with, it was more expensive than I imagined($250), but I thought it might be worth paying extra to be organised and in the company of others. Turns out they just handed me the tickets that morning and I was on my own.

    Still, the place is great, to be honest I think driving over the mountains into Cusco is better than Machu Picchu itself, I just prefer the feeling of exploring, when there is signs telling you were to walk and you have to wait for others to take a picture before you can take your own, it takes away some of the sense of awe.

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    Stayed up there for about 2 hours, didnt realise you can climb to the top of the mountain(the far peak), but it was too late in the day for me to do so :(

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    The alpacas are insanely tame, you can get right up close to them and they just dont care.

    Got right in this guys face
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    Drove down to Puno the next morning, my speed/odometer stopped working, I had a look at the cable but cant see anything disconnected. Ive done some googling but havent gotten a solution yet, its frustrating as until I get it fixed, I just need to guess when I need fuel. You wouldnt wanna run out in some of these areas.

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    Was meant to make my way to the Chilean border today, but unfortunately I had abit too much Christmas cheer last night which resulted in an extended stay. The goal is to get to Santiago by the weekend.

    Hope anyone who stumbles across this thread has a great christmas. Ross
    #52
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  13. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    Google maps told lies again today, stated the trip from Puno-Tacna was 6hrs 45mins, well id like to meet the guy who can do it in that time.

    Ride was a mix of dirt/highway/moutain twisties that challenged me as a rider whilst being great fun for most parts. Nearly got into a lot of bother at one point, they have trenches built into the roads here, I assume for flash floods, but they come with little warning, and you cant see them until theyre right infront of you. Well, I caught the first one at ~70mph. For the first time the KLR got airbourne, managed to land it but got a real surge of pain in my back on the landing. Its all good now but guess Ill wait until the morning to give myself the all clear.

    Very likely the highest altitude ive ever been today. Although I was shook after the trench incident, the KLR took it in its stride.

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    Was the most remote ride of the trip so far, seen a couple of construction workers and maybe 10 cars on the 8 hour ride.

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    Felt like mars at some points
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    I had done no research into Tacna prior to arriving, just knew it was the largest dot on the map close to the border, I had abit of a fright rolling in as the first mile into the city is one massive slum on both sides of the highway.

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    Got a place for the night and tomorrow head to Chile.
    #53
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  14. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    Entering Chile was the friendliest border I've done lifetime, with or without the bike. Dude was so friendly I felt like asking if he'd fancy a beer after work, the girls giggling asking me to say things again cause of my accent.

    The KLR also did the 365km on one fill. It was a good day.

    The goal for the next few remains clear
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    #54
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  15. TripleDubYa

    TripleDubYa Intrepid Explorer

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    Location:
    Boise, Idaho
    Following along.
    #55
  16. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    Jul 12, 2017
    Oddometer:
    50
    Cheers :)

    Been a long week, Spent new years in La Serena, spent New Years on the beach at a BBQ, the bombed it down to Santiago. Found a place I could get the bike looked at and the tires changed, It has the largest select of moto shops ive ever seen.

    Ended up chosing this place, just because it said Kawasaki on the front, they had an English speaking member of staff which lessened the chance of me screwing something up.

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    Waited a couple of days for the tires to be fitted, and with that went on abit of a bender through Santiago. It really is my type of city, not much to see, but nice cafes and plenty of bars.

    After a few days I was itching to get going again, and spent the last week or so waking up, gearing up and riding. Ive been dealing with deserts since entering Chile so was refreshing to see the landscape start to change.

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    Entering Argentina/Patagonia was pretty exciting, its essentially what the whole trip has been gearing towards. I was treated to a fairly windless hour or two on the roads today, something ive been lead to believe is a rarity here.


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    #56
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  17. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2017
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    Ive gotten as far as Esquel, Copying my route to Ushuaia mainly from this thread on ADV

    http://advrider.com/index.php?threa...off-way-more-than-he-can-chew-la-tdf.1240036/

    Its amazing what a man too lazy to make a plan can do with the powers of the internet :)

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    I heard terrible things about Argentinean banks proior to arriving, and I wasnt disappointed, the largest cash withdrawal I can make seems to be ~$100, and in order to do that I have to occur a $10 fee(!), doesnt seem to get much better wherever I go :(

    Anyways, got plenty of views to make me forget about the financial spew.

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    #57
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  18. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    Jul 12, 2017
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    God it gets windy down here!

    Sign translation: If you are on a two wheeled vehicle, youll regret the day you were born.
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    Sorting out issues with the sale of the bike, im selling it very cheap in an attempt to not have to hang around too long.

    Everyday waking up and putting on of the gear is almost an emotional routine now, the sudden realization that the end is drawing near.
    #58
  19. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jul 12, 2017
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    Ruta 40 got the best of me at one stage, I went 500km without seeing a petrol station, most of this was on a dirt/gravel road that took everything I had not to drop the bike and lose my mind.

    I inevitably ran out of petrol, started to push the bike for abit before a couple of other bikers helped me out :) seeing the road run from dirt to pavement after 100km is a dream.

    Was so relieved to find a petrol station I took a picture of it.

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    Checked out Perito Moreno Glacier. I get bored easily of organised tourism, but this was unreal, spent ~2 hours wandering around.

    The drive towards it
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    The Glacier
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    #59
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  20. purrretrog

    purrretrog Adventurer

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    I wanted to head down towards Torres del Paine from here, But with the sunset coming and a bike viewing in a couple of days, I opted for the Rio Gallegos route.
    #60
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