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Discussion in 'GS Boxers' started by bobinaustin, Dec 23, 2012.
That'll void the warranty........:eek1
That slave cylinder is certainly pooched. Did it stink like gear oil?
The gasket should look like Micky mouse.
See #14. That's what the new gasket looks like....about $6.00. New felt while you're at it.
See Lonestar BMW...the service fella there is very helpful.
oh i got a new "gasket" already. i will try to start putting the new one on tonight. i can already tell the process will be just as painful. i wish there was more slack on the line coming from the master cylinder. i guess i will do the bleed after its on, before i starting putting the bike back together. i am so done with this repair. ugh. its taking me so long but at least im learning along the way!
That was before someone came up with the idea of routing the EVAP purg vacuum so it can auto-suck the cavity.
Clutch slave r-r is pita until you get the technique down then it's a breeze. Good skill to have learned.
Find it easier to release hose from the clutch master. Hose must be cleaned anyway. Looks a pain to route it but it is actually easy. Most will have rust on the banjo... I went with 2" over from Spiegler (fittings won't corrode).
- +++Try tipping the slave up when r-r it from cavity. Once I leaned this trick clearance became a non-issue. Practice before installing gasket.
- Might find that the banjo is not seated owing to interference from indexing bar on slave and or trans case. Be sure to hold it out while tightening and do not over-torque. First flush was w/cheap DOT 3 and that saved on expensive DOT 4 which was installed once the slave was back in operation.
"What he said sucks".
- Yep, he was telling you to apply vacuum. Sucks= vacuum. Not intended as criticism. Most do not have Mighty Vac. The suck method works but is not at all necessary.
- Try purging hydraulics before finally assembly, careful not to damage piston by over-extension. Tap on the slave while tilted to release air. Injection method is good alternative.
"No need to replace lower shock bolt"
- Maybe not but what a pita if the dam thing snaps as they are prone to do.
"No need to replace input shaft rear seal if you have the brown one"
"Requires seal seating tool"
- Our seals are grey. If any other color then we call the Bay Keeper to investigate. Most of the old 1150's will have the old style grey seal which should be replaced. Did not find that using a pick worked. Drilling and rigging up a slide hammer is the answer- came right out.
Steptoe: "Drive the sucker all the way up to the bearing"
- Easy to do with just a socket.
Well shoot. Got the slave on and was just about to start the bleed when noticed there was a nice puddle of fluid under the bike. There is a rather large leak and of course I have no way of knowing where it came from until I take it all apart again. Even then... So I am thinking that the banjo bolt that leads to the bleeder hose may not be tight. I can't tighten it while the slave is on so I need to take it all apart and tighten it up and test again. My only real concern is did the almost certain introduction of air into the line screw me in a big way or is it just something that will need to come out as I bleed it??
Now to collect my nerves and have a swig of scotch and start taking it apart again... Ugh.
And this may sound silly but where does the washer go? Top or bottom of the banjo bolt??? Jeez I'm a noob
This shows one washer on top and one bottom. This was not the case when I removed the slave.
Top and bottom for each banjo bolt.
If you are reusing, you should anneal them (soften) with a blowtorch. Heat until the copper goes brown. They will seal much better once annealed.
Old school. I bet you have had your way before with a Norton head gasket, haven't you.
I'll never tell
"big puddle under bike after assembly"
First one I did that happened to me. My tip above: The banjo is hung up on the slave indexing bar. More torque isn't the answer. Hold the right angle banjo out as you gently torque it down.
I put a bleeder end on my clutch a while ago, it lives just forward of the rear brake res, and under the seat. it can be seen just above the cap.
Be careful with this picture from microfiche..post #49...it shows lines in a different position than how they came off! There are little nubs to stop banjo spinning as you tighten them. There are washers on each side of both banjo or it leaks. You tighten the banjo before you install the slave. You can put the bleed line on at the bench. Then hold slave up and twist it and tighten lever line from left side of bike through frame triangle behind fuse box, it's obvious when you look. I use a T handle allen for this. it's finicky. Even more finnicky is geting the Mickey Mouse in place, be sure you put it on correctly before you offer slave up, Mickey only goes on one way, and it likes to drop off just as you get slave about right.
Slave is $99 at Beemer Bone Yard and comes with Mickey. I got a stainless lever line from them intended for a 1150R, but of course it's the same. $50. I route line 'through' fork leg and not around it, gives you more line. Nice too if you fit risers to your handlebars. It's crappy trying to push new line through the back.
You can also just undo banjo bolt on lever to give you more line to help install, there are washers on either side here too. Every banjo is like that, brakes too. They are crushable washers, or banjo leaks. Same on oil lines.
And Triumphs, as well.
Hmmmmmmmmm....looks like someone has stolen your evap canister. Shame.
I relocated it for the Jesse's.
everything you say makes total sense. i will HOPEFully be getting the washers on correctly this week and start the long journey to getting everythingbolted back on soon!
Ok so I guess I got it done. The reason why I don't sound convinced is it took several attempts of putting the slave on and finding loose banjo bolts etc. after several starts and stops I got the slave on and bled the clutch but in not sure I bled it properly. I guess my question is how do I know it's been bled properly??