So Trice, you know that problem with the Super Tenere fork seals? Fixed! Luckily enough, I carry one of these... http://sealmate.net/ seems to work as advertised. On the down side, I will need to do some work on the Tenere final drive soon. Yeah, that's right, it's due for an oil change! Really poor design I reckon - why couldn't they do a "lifetime oil" setup like BMW? So after 2 nights at a hostel near Tikal, I'm in Puerto Barrios on the east coast. I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to have more security issues here than in Mexico - my hotel car park, apart from being locked up, also has an armed guard. Although the rifle might be just for show, looks like a WWII era .303 CORRECTION I just went down and talked to the guard, he gave me a look at his gun; on closer inspection it's actually an antique-looking pump-action shotgun. Shows how much I know about guns when I can't tell a 303 from a shotgun!