Kawasaki A7 Avenger 350

Discussion in '2 smokers' started by johnnyc14, Oct 29, 2011.

  1. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    I've been looking for one of these for a while, they are pretty scarce here is western Canada. I bgought this 67 A7 and 2 A1 250 cc Samurai's. The A1's are parts donors but I may be able to get a complete A7 and an A1 out fo this lot.I had an A1 when I was a kid and it was the best of my early bikes. This one runs and is very complete. Another project for winter.
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    Check out the pipes on this one!! ;D
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    The tank on the A7 is in really good shape, hardly any rust. The paint under the chrome panels is like new and will make a great reference for matching the color. Another A series owner from New York had some good rubber knee pads and they are on their way to me in the mail.
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    The engine is in remarkable shape. It really just needs cleaning up and new rings, gaskets and seals. These rotary valve twins must have been much more expensive to manufacture than the piston post 2 strokes. Lots more parts and machine work involved.
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    Lots of spooge but not too bad considering its 44 years old.
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    The frame is ready for sandblasting and I have already glass beaded the cases, cylinders and heads
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    Lots of nights in the garage ahead. Sure beats spending all winter watching TV.
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  2. concours

    concours WFO for 44 years

    Joined:
    Dec 2, 2008
    Oddometer:
    5,715
    Location:
    Kensington, NH USA
    Outstanding! Keep us in the loop!
    #2
  3. subagon

    subagon Hopelessly lost

    Joined:
    Jul 26, 2004
    Oddometer:
    572
    Location:
    Antioch, FL
    I don't know anything about old Kawasakis, but saw this trio for sale last year at Barber. Maybe you can ID them?

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    Full sized image here

    Love that old logo :nod

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  4. anonny

    anonny What could go wrong?

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,065
    Location:
    Beautiful Revelstoke BC
    Nice, real nice... how are they to find parts for?
    #4
  5. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    Subagon, it's hard to identify the 2 closer bikes but I think they might be 1965 Roadrunners, 175cc. The one behind I believe is a J1Tl 85cc. Kawasaki did not have a toe in the door of the North American market until 1966 and all those bikes are older than that.

    Anony, they are a little more difficult to find parts for than some of the others I've worked on but I was lucky to find the 2 parts bikes. A lot of the rubber parts are the same as early H1 stuff. Engine gaskets, bearings and seals are no problem but good exhaust pipes and oversize pistons are almost impossible to find. I have 2 sets of pipes that are probably repairable but it will be a lot of work. After they are repaired nobody wants to re-chrome 2 stroke pipes because the oil in them contaminates the chroming tanks. I have a pattern for expansion chambers so I might make some pipes and get them ceramic coated.

    The air filter element on all 3 of these bikes is un-usable.I did some research on the K&N filter site and found a filter that is just a little taller than the original but will still fit into the original housing with a minor modification.
    The original filter has a metal base glued onto it that fits tightly into the base of the filter housing bottom. I soaked the bottom of the original filter with solvent and removed that metal base.
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    I used my die grinder to remove the depressed center of the original top housing to add about 5 mm of height and make room for the K&N filter.

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    I bought a K&N RX-4010 air filter at a local auto parts store for $50. I guess the tuner car guys use them because they had lots in stock.

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    I used a utility knife to remove the rubber flange from the K&N and trimmed it so it will fit into the original base of the paper filter.

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    I test fit the base to make sure it will fit the original filter base, then cleaned both surrfaces with acetone then glued them together with good quality RTV silocone sealant.

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    Then I let the silicone set up for a few hours. It fits perfectly and should flow better then the original.

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    Here you can see that the top of the filter element breathes too unlike the original. I'll have to be careful when washing the bike!

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    #5
  6. LasseNC

    LasseNC XSessive!

    Joined:
    Jan 27, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,093
    Location:
    Denmark, Danimarka, Danmark, Dänemark
    Rememer to re-jet! :) Looks good, what are you planning to do with the glassbeaded parts? It will be a b*tch to keep in somewhat clean shape if left untreated.
    #6
  7. JonnyCash

    JonnyCash turd polisher

    Joined:
    Jan 22, 2011
    Oddometer:
    1,780
    Location:
    Midcoast, Maine
    I glassbeaded all my engine casings on my RD a couple of years ago, and left them bare. They still look great. I've heard people say that this is a concern, but I'm left to wonder why. The way I understand it, glassbeading peens the pores of the castings closed, and makes them easier to keep clean, and in my experience, it seems to work.
    #7
  8. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    Everything get painted with engine enamel then baked at 250 degrees F for 2 hours. This is my H1 engine in progress. I've used this process for many projects and the paint is very durable. The A7 engine was completely painted from the factory so there will be no polishsed covers like the H1

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  9. vicster

    vicster Long timer

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,503
    Nice find on the Avenger. I wanted one of these when they were new, and have been looking for one off and on the last couple years. Love the old two stroke street bikes.
    #9
  10. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    Got some work done on the suspenson. New fork seals and o-rings, some NOS top fork bolts and washers and some 30 weight fork oil(hard to find that stuff).

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    Re-assembled.

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    #10
  11. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    I got the frame sand blasted and I primed and painted it. Powder coating is not in the budget on this bike.

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    #11
  12. anonny

    anonny What could go wrong?

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,065
    Location:
    Beautiful Revelstoke BC

    You really need to do your own powder coating, it will pay for itself on the first bike. Want to borrow my spare to see if it's for you? :evil

    Nice solution for the air filter, looks nice and is functional and stock looking.

    Care to measure the ID at both ends of those fork boots for me, I need some for my CL.
    #12
  13. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
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    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    You're right I really should get into the powder coating. I'd like to try the powder coating Bake but I don't have a big oven, I just have an old toaster oven I use for the small parts. What do you use? Where did you get your PC gun and supplies? It would be really cool to have an oven big enough to do a frame in.

    I will measure those foprk boots and get back to you.
    #13
  14. lrutt

    lrutt SILENCE.....i kill you

    Joined:
    Jul 25, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,905
    Location:
    Deltona, FL
    I disagree, I say stick with paint. Rattle can Rustoleum. Easy touchup, cheap, and more closely resembles the original.

    - Can't touch up PC if it gets nicked up etc.
    - Once it starts to lift with corosion underneath you have a mess
    - More difficult to apply etc.

    Unless you need uber chemical resistance, I don't see the advantage.
    #14
  15. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

    Joined:
    Jul 18, 2006
    Oddometer:
    33,474
    Location:
    Central New Mexico, 7420ft above sea level
    Love the A7. I am always looking for a deal on an old school 2 stroke street bike.
    #15
  16. anonny

    anonny What could go wrong?

    Joined:
    Mar 20, 2007
    Oddometer:
    6,065
    Location:
    Beautiful Revelstoke BC
    I use a normal house hold oven that you can usually pick up free at metal recyclers, convection ovens work best.

    The gun I am offering to lend you is an Eastwood gun, real simple point and shoot, I bought the Elite Kit so I would have everything I would need.

    http://www.eastwood.com/hotcoat-elite-powder-coat-kit.html

    365 Powder (in Toronto) is who I use for most of my powder and supplies.
    http://www.powder365.com/store/
    #16
  17. acap650

    acap650 acap650

    Joined:
    Apr 10, 2006
    Oddometer:
    899
    Location:
    Western PA
    +1 for a cool bike - it was my second motorcycle - bought as a leftover in 1969 the year the Mach3 came out. Couldn't afford the Mach3 and glad for it. The Avenger was plenty fast and far more user friendly.
    #17
  18. Paul Mihalka

    Paul Mihalka Old Fart

    Joined:
    May 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    877
    Location:
    Maryland
    I had one of those! For a few years British bikes, then 2 years without a bike (grrrrr) then start with Japanese. Honda 250 Dream, Honda 305 Superhawk, Bridgestone GTR 350. I loved the Bridgestone, but when I found out that they stop making bikes, I sold it and got the Kawa A7. Good bike but the GTR fitted me better. After that Honda CB750, after that all BMW.
    #18
  19. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    I got some NOS Kawasaki brake shoes, new shocks, new wheel bearings and seals along with new Avon Road Rider tyres. I got the fenders polished up, they are stainless steel and in amazing shape with absolutely no rust. I had to massage a few dents out of them but they turned out OK. So I've now got the front end, wheels and fenders back on.

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    #19
  20. johnnyc14

    johnnyc14 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    Oddometer:
    207
    Location:
    St. Albert, Alberta
    Did some work on the engine. When I took it apart I found that both the drive and driven gears for first were kind of trashed. Engagement dogs and slots are rounded off,

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    I took the engine apart on 1 of my A1 parts bikes and found that the 1st gear parts are in much better shape so I used them instead of the originals. It's hard to see in the pics but they are much better.

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    I installed the trans in the cases with the counter shaft sprocket and clutch hub on and the nuts tight to simulate a fully assembled trans. Just like my H1 I found about .040" end play in both shafts. I used a couple of the shims from the A1 trans to bring the end play down to .010". I had to remove .010" from the .040" shims that are used by the factory.

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    It should shift great now.
    #20