Kendon dual standup trailer?

Discussion in 'Equipment' started by chrishsu, Jul 28, 2007.

  1. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    Just bought an used '98 Kendon Dual. I was wondering if I can trailer only one bike, the GS,. I have read/heard that you can have one bike on the Dual but am not sure if it works the same way on the '98 model.

    Thanks!
    #1
  2. FlagRS

    FlagRS Gone to the Dogs

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    Hey Chris,
    You got it!
    Yes you should be able to trailer one bike at a time as long as it has that Torsion suspension. I have trailerd both the K12RS and the GS alone on one side on my '05 Kendon Dual. I can't tell a difference in the trailer's handling between one bike and two bikes loaded other than the overall weight of the trailer.

    But as you know I'm no expert on the '98 model.
    Kurt
    #2
  3. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    Hi Kurt,

    yes, I got it last weekend. It trailered very well behind my SUV. I had to look in the rear view mirrors just to make sure it was still there. It sure is a big differenece from the Uhaul trailer. Really appreciate your help!

    I'm just not sure if the '98 model has the Torsion suspension. I put a call into Kendon last week but no one was able to answer that question and the receptionist didn't know either.

    I would also like to get a wide ramp that I can ride the GS onto the trailer too. It's not always to be able to find slope to upload the bike.

    Anyone knows where to get a wider ramp for the Kendon?

    Thanks!
    #3
  4. FlagRS

    FlagRS Gone to the Dogs

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    Does the axle look like this:

    [​IMG]

    There are no leaf springs, just the square axle under the deck and those small arms attaching the wheels. Dexter Axle is the manufacture and the name is stamped on outside of those arms. If your axle looks like that is must be Torsion.
    #4
  5. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    Went to the garage to check and it's exactly the same as yours and has Dexter written on it :-)

    I also notice on your picture that you have a full-size spare. Mine is a skinny spare :-(. The previous owner did put two new tires on. He also has two pivot wheel chocks.

    Do you need to do any maintenance work such as wheel bearing greasing..etc?

    Thanks!
    #5
  6. FlagRS

    FlagRS Gone to the Dogs

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    From the manual:
    • Wheel nuts and bolts should be checked periodically - 60 ft pounds.
    • Repack wheel bearings after the first 1000 miles and every 2000 miles thereafter. You do not need to remove the hub to re-grease using the EZ Lube System.
    EZ LUBE SYSTEM

    Lubrication of the wheel bearing is easily applied to the inner bearing which travels to the outer bearing providing ultimate lubrication protection.

    1. Remove rubber dust cap. You do not need to remove the hub to repack bearings.

    2. Zerk fitting inside.

    3. Pump lube grease into fitting until overflow appears on the outer bearing. Do not overfill excessively, inside bearing may push out causing grease to escape and spill into inner wheel.

    4. Stop pumping-clean off excess.

    5. Replace rubber dust cap.
    #6
  7. PhilSpace

    PhilSpace The Gov Administrator

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    I have pumped some grease through the bearings of mine a couple times and have never had a problem.

    Towing one or two bikes is not a big deal, but when I only tow one, I do rotate from side to side to share the wealth.

    The only problem I had was tires - original ones I had weren't right. I replaced them and had the wheels balanced, which isn't common, but makes a big difference when towing unloaded and now you don't even know it's there when you are pulling it.
    #7
  8. mudslngr

    mudslngr mud .....a necessity

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    Any one repack their bearings and can provide some guidance? One of my wheels looks to have a runny nose. I need to check if mine is a dexter or tiedown .
    #8
  9. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    What year is it? I had a '99 before and '04 currently. Both are Dexters. I have been repacking mine every year or 1000 miles. It took me about 3 hours the first time since I did not know what I was doing. Now I can repack both and wash my hands in under 1 hour.
    You will start from removing the hub by using a flat screw driver and rubber hammer to pry the dust cap off. I did take the wheels off the trailer. Your next step would be to take the cotter pin off the Castle nut. After that point, you can slide the entire unit out. I always lay old newspapers on the ground so the grease won't drop on the floor. You can inspect the bearings at this point. I would then clean the entire unit, apply a light layer of grease on before I put the unit back in. The entire assembly can be put in in the reverse order. I would then put the castle nut back on and secure it with the Cotter pin. At this point, I would pump new grease in with a grease gun.
    #9
  10. mudslngr

    mudslngr mud .....a necessity

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    2005... thank YOU!

    Where did you source your parts?
    #10
  11. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    Have not had any issues yet that requires parts. The only thing I added to it is the center rail kit for $160. I use the center rail when I only have one bike loaded. It's also much easier with one person loading/unloading only.
    #11
  12. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    I just noticed that you are in D.C. I'm in Rockville, MD.
    #12
  13. Sanders

    Sanders Stogiesuckingsinglemalter

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    I had one with a Condor chock mounted center. When I hauled the GS thats where I put it.
    Just sold the trailer last weekend for exactly what I paid for it 6 years ago. I am regretting it...after 27 years maybe I should have just gotten rid of her :lol3
    #13
  14. BeeMaa

    BeeMaa Hack Pilot

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    You might have my old trailer.

    Does it look like this?

    [​IMG]
    #14
  15. Sanders

    Sanders Stogiesuckingsinglemalter

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    :thumb Niiiiice!
    #15
  16. BeeMaa

    BeeMaa Hack Pilot

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    Thanks.
    I had aluminum blocks machined to fit under the wheel chocks and in the groove of the trailer.
    The wheel chocks were too wide to fit in the groove without raising them.
    Drilled the blocks and secured it with grade 8 hardware.
    Used it a few times (when I had a Harley), but it was really taking up space in the garage.
    Sold the Harley and found I just wasn't using it...more riding...less trailering. :clap
    #16
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    No need to take the bearings apart if they are fitted with the zerk grease fittings in the center of the axle of the Kendon before each trip. Just a few pumps on the gun is enough to add grease. I always remove excess grease before re-fitting the rubber end plug. Allows for heat expansion (leaks throught the seals) and bearings dont need to be packed solid.

    Also, found that it is not wise to carry a full size spare under the trailer if you have two full size bikes (HondaGW and BMW K1200GT) on. You wil drag it at most gas stations!

    I had the wheels re-balanced too. The original Kendon balancing was far out.


    Apart from that, they are great trailers!
    #17
  18. chrishsu

    chrishsu Been here awhile

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    right, definitely not a good idea to have the spare mounted under the trailer. Can't get it easily if you need the spare with your bike(s) on the trailer.
    #18
  19. Ride-a-lot

    Ride-a-lot Been here awhile

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    I don't have any trouble with the spare dragging on my Kendon. But then again the two bikes that are on my trailer don't weigh anywhere near what a BloatWing and LightTruck weigh together.
    #19
  20. Xeraux

    Xeraux Archvillain

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    Anyone need one? :ear
    #20