KLR 650 Modifications

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by VascoMerlin, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. Maniac28

    Maniac28 Been here awhile

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    402
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    California
    Agreed. And hi, Jud. :)
  2. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Redding, CA
    Ah, been working with Wyman I see.... Good guy. You have the same setup I do except we sent my head out to Chief for some "unmatched" head porting (DO NOT compare with M-tech!). Don't you like how Hot Cams requires you to turn your airbox into swiss cheese? There was basically nothing left of mine so I went with an Anti-gravity battery and dumped it for a dual stage UNI sock. Congrats! WW and EM are tops in my book......:thumbup
  3. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    I ended up going with my own home made version using 1.0 inch square tubing. I used the same mounting points as others. These have been tested many times off road and have always done there job.

    [​IMG]

    I am thinking any of the major manufacturers will provide you with a decent bar for off road type get off's, IMHO it is the higher speed hard pavement off's that will likely do more damage. And I am in no hurry to test mine for that situation.
  4. Jettn Jim

    Jettn Jim This is Liv'n!!!

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    I left my airbox looking like a box, with 4-1" holes in the top that I either block off or keep open with 1" filter inserts.... depending on the jetting I need at the time.
    I also have the side door if needed for the really high stuff....
    [​IMG]

    Yea their airbox mods and jetting recommendations are deff out there for sure.
    I use my common sense and end up somewhere all together different.

    And I agree with Jud on the IMS fer sure!
  5. Sourjon

    Sourjon TAT'erd

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    Love that Blue and Black. I've got the SW's too. Very sturdy. Between them and barkbusters bikes pretty well protected.
    [​IMG]
    John
  6. TengaiJohn

    TengaiJohn Long timer

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    Just an FYI, I had the footpegs welded on my KLR while the engine was out of the frame and had no problems installing the engine.

    Just thought I'd share.
  7. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    I found that the airbox definitely choked the system down unless you drilled those side holes in the airbox, I tried it both ways. I guess if you putt alot it really would make much diff. I love the UNI sock, easy to inspect, clean and to my surprise I have had no issues with water crossings but I am not one to ride in waist deep.......
  8. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    3,348
    YMMV, Aron31, but . . . I consider nerfs SACRIFICIAL components, whose mission is to protect radiator, tank, and plastics.

    If the machine remains operable after a crash, I consider the nerfs have done their job, bends and nicks notwithstanding. Generation 1 Happy Trails PD nerfs have been thoroughly road-tested, bike remained trail-worthy throughout, and . . . Happy Trails provides some price consideration for replacement parts.

    Were the nerfs TOO sturdy, frame distortion/damage might result from falls, I'd think. My opinion only; unbreakable, unbendable crash guards may exist, producing an invulnerable KLR.
  9. doogiepooch

    doogiepooch Been here awhile

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    I'll second the bark busters. Once the crash bars are on your handle bars then become the remaining weak spot. I have added Protaper bars and MSR guards on mine since those photos. If you combine quality handle bars with lever guards and the crash guards you have done about all you can to make sure you can pick your bike up and carry on after almost any "get off" situation.
  10. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    Buy the Eagle Mike bracket.

    The stock one is a die cast unit that is easily broken. I've witnessed one myself.
  11. Jettn Jim

    Jettn Jim This is Liv'n!!!

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    I like the looks of your mod... you welded plates to bolt your pegs mounts to.
    I believe alot of folks weld the factory mounts. I'm not saying that, that couldn't work either, but I like dropping the left peg down out of the way when I do swaps. I'll have to try leaving it in the normal position next time I pull the engine.
    Just not today.... :deal I'm up here in Newfoundland for 3 weeks now and am installing my backup 705 that has the hotcams today, while the peg is outta the way.
    This will be the 3rd engine swap since June. Plus a teardown for re-ringing and valve job in May.... ooooh boy.


    Hahaha well I'm probably THE most UN-putting guy ya'd ever ride with aand I do keep all my airbox intact just for that purpose- Seat high Water crossings.:lol3
    Anyhow glad your setup is working for ya :freaky
  12. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    WTH??????????:eek1
  13. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Redding, CA
    Ever wonder why you go through so many motors?:scratch

    I wish your set up was working for you!!:rofl:rofl:lol3
  14. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

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    JJ: Why so many??? :huh
  15. PacificPT

    PacificPT Been here awhile

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    This will be the 3rd engine swap since June. Plus a teardown for re-ringing and valve job in May.... ooooh boy.


    Inquiring minds want to know.... Why three swaps?
  16. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    Maybe we dont want to know and he does not want to tell....!
  17. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Lust for dust.

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    Maybe I'm just reading between the lines, but I think he has multiple motors and each is tuned/set up differently (one of them is a 705, IIRC). Rather than have the bike down for an extended rebuild, he just swaps in a fresh motor while tearing down the other.

    :dunno
  18. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Maine
    The KLR with 705 piston seems to like to rev and I'm thinking of reducing my gearing. Can people who have 705 pistons tell me their experience? Does running a 705 at, say, 5,500rpm cause oil burning in the long run?

    I was using the KLR (with original piston) for highway miles and long gravel roads so put on a 16t sprocket. It made 4,900rpm on the highway more manageable. (The bike did 4 bun-burners in 2012.) It started burning oil so it now has the 705 piston. I also have a new single-track alongside my road.

    The 705 seems to REALLY like to rev and it's pretty sweet on faster rural roads. Conversely, on my little bit of lumpy single-track, I'm slipping the clutch the whole way but still blasting too fast through the trees. High rpm is SO nice with the 705, but low-rpm response is a little catchy (did the KLX needle and leaner jet very early).

    Seems obvious to me going back to 15t or even to 14t would be an improvement at all speeds if I just let it rev. I'm hoping someone can tell me if revving the 705 causes the same wear and ovalization as revving the original piston and sleeve.

    Thanks.
  19. Aprilia

    Aprilia Been here awhile

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    The 685 and 688 piston is lighter than stock. The 658 and 705 are lighter than either. Even less vibration and quicker rev. Running higher revs is no problem. While the clutch is pretty robust on the KLR it can get glazed/burned if abused too much. If your level adjustment suddenly changes while slipping its time to back off...
  20. Nanuq

    Nanuq Aventurer by Trade

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    Out of curiosity, what is the mileage with the 705? Are you saving any gas, burning substantially more? etc.:D