KLR 650 Modifications

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by VascoMerlin, Aug 24, 2006.

  1. PacificPT

    PacificPT Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    987
    Location:
    Monterey, CA
    I am running the raising links in conjunction with a Moab shock built to take advantage of the height increase. That and the progressive front springs, flat corbin saddle raise the seat height to 37". But the suspension really is completely different, better, than stock.
  2. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2011
    Oddometer:
    6,046
    Location:
    Richmond, Ohio
    Same as what I've been seeing, thanks. The nerf bars was kind of a guess, for every person that likes them another guy took them off. I'll find out for sure as soon as everything gets here

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2
  3. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,849
    Or, as Mr. Ohm once said,
    :rofl
  4. Doorguy1979

    Doorguy1979 Dreamridin'

    Joined:
    May 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    627
    Location:
    Parachute, Colorado, USA

    Nice, I went 3/4" shorter on mine, seems to have changed the geometry enough that the stock shock is happier, I went from preload 5 to 1, and am still higher than stock. Makes a world of difference, even with the Stearns seat cover on it I as still flat footed, but at 6'5" I like it taller.
  5. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    166
    Location:
    New York
    Just installed the following this past week,

    IMS 10 GAL tank
    EBC big brake kit
    Galfer ss line
    Oxford heaterz grips
    Eastern Beaver fuse block
    Hardwired USB charging port for standard, micro and iPhone charging.
    MSR folding shift lever
    Tool tube
    Waterproof iPhone holder


    This is on top of my already installed SW rear rack plate, HT tenton side cans, HT highway pegs, skid plate, bark busters, doo, Thermo Bob, volt monitor, rear master guard, hid low beam, led flashimg brake light, led turn signals, led dash and indicator lights, and a few other things I am sure I am forgetting.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
  6. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    166
    Location:
    New York


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  7. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    Garden City, Michigan
    If you don't have pictures, it didn't happen !!!!
  8. ThomasVolomitz

    ThomasVolomitz New Old Stock

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,500
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    You mean show us don't tell us?
  9. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    166
    Location:
    New York
    Fair enough. Here you go, this was just before I put the big brake rotor on.

    [​IMG]


    Odd grammar, words and spelling brought to you by my iPhone's autocorrect.
  10. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    Garden City, Michigan
    Marc11- Nicely setup. Have you tried out the big brake kit yet ? If so, how much better than stock ?
  11. marc11

    marc11 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Nov 5, 2009
    Oddometer:
    166
    Location:
    New York
    No not yet. We had snow the day I put it on and more snow today. Have to wait it out a bit.

    Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 2
  12. Jettn Jim

    Jettn Jim This is Liv'n!!!

    Joined:
    Mar 28, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,900
    Location:
    NE PA Some... PNW Some... On HIGH ADVENTURE Most!
    :lurkBeen contemplating one a these..... keep us posted!
  13. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,938
    Location:
    BOI
    Question on electrical relays for you electrician types:

    I'm considering running low and high beams on separate relays as I've seen posted before. I also want to add grip heaters, a power outlet, and auxiliary lights. The plan is to wire the auxiliary lights to the high beam relay. Low beam relay will be triggered from the city lights circuit (which I assume is always on in the ignition "run" position) so the low beam will always be on, with the high beam switch triggering the high beam/auxiliary light relay. I will also wire the grip heaters and power outlet to the low beam relay. One new fused wire from the battery to power this equipment. Voltmeter to be installed.

    So my question to those who know...is this a logical approach? Or do I need to complicate things with additional relays or other equipment? Any other suggestions? Thanks in advance.
  14. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,849
    TPI sells a "plug 'n' play" dual-relay harness for KLR's; requires one hot wire connection to battery (fused lead) and one frame ground connection proximate to headlight connector.

    You could use this for your scheme; use city lights circuit for control voltage to low beam relay; tap off high and low beam power leads for your other circuits.

    Harness is intended for trick "Canadian" headlight bulb (sold by TPI also), which I found highly effective. Don't see a need for simultaneous high and low beams myself with the trick bulb, but YMMV. Assume reflector could stand the heat from simultaneous high and low beam filament activation; assume chosen harness battery hot wire fuse will handle simultaneously current from high and low beams, grip heaters, auxiliary lights, and auxiliary power outlet load.

    Might check overall wattage against stock stator output; might be pushin' it!
  15. ThomasVolomitz

    ThomasVolomitz New Old Stock

    Joined:
    Aug 14, 2010
    Oddometer:
    4,500
    Location:
    NE Ohio
    Yesterday did the EM Doo. It was a cold 18 degree F 30 mile ride to my buddy's garage but am glad to have the Doo done. Used the torsion spring.
    [​IMG]
  16. GO_OUTSIDE!

    GO_OUTSIDE! dirty hippie

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    320
    Location:
    SF Bay Area California
    I would rather have heated grips than 2 filaments burning in my headlight.
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,323
    Location:
    South Texas
    I have about 35K on an EBC 320 front rotor. Someone calculated 18% more stopping power - I can believe it. Once at about 50mph I lifted the rear wheel in a 'stoppy' when a deer 'crossed' the road in front of me in West Texas!

    If your have bought an EBC rotor, I stongly suggest that you use neither the EBC HH nor the Kawa stock HH pads. While stopping the bike well, they score the rotor badly. Get the Galpher Green pads.
  18. GAS GUY

    GAS GUY MILE EATER

    Joined:
    Jul 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,005
    Location:
    Garden City, Michigan
    The heated grips should get its own relay.
    Are you going to have a switch or rheostat for the heat control?
    Generaly, if you run any kind of amperage through a switch they wont live long.
    Use the heated grips switch to trigger the relay,and run the amperage to the grips through the relay.
    You can also get mini relays,if you want smaller.
  19. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,849
    + 1.

    Switched from OEM pads to Galfer Greens after comparing rotor wear, Kawasaki pads vs. Galfer Greens.

    Dealer had to "special order" the Galfer Greens; these pads did not show up in his Rocky catalog.

    I find the "Greens" smooth, but effective. No pad-wear data yet, but appreciate the rotor smoothness, regardless . . .
  20. Qaz

    Qaz Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 12, 2012
    Oddometer:
    385
    What does the Doohickey do on the KLR and what happens if it is not replaced?