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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by VascoMerlin, Aug 24, 2006.
I use Broccoli bands to keep the smell down !
Only tangentially a KLR modification -- pockets inside the top box.
These pockets hang from 4 of the 10 flathead machine screws that secure the piano hinge. I'll leave the tops open for now, but I think this will require that I go test it. Once the roads clear a little.
Last year I shortened a stuff-sack and the back of this set of pockets is the old top. I had to trim about an inch-and-a-half of fabric off that piece to make this. Does that qualify me for my "cheap as a KLR owner" merit badge? (I did not, however, save the inch-and-a-half that I trimmed off of this.)
Installed a LEXX exhaust yesterday. Looks and sound great.
May I ask how much you have into the Lexx $?
Lexx is a good pipe for the money. They are still having broken spring issues but like always RMATV takes care of their customers. If its mostly street miles I'd suggest going with a pipe that doesn't need repacking. LeoVince is pretty good option/value for that.
I think its $179 shipped.
The bottem spring goes on no problem, but there was no way the top spring was going to make it. So I cut a clothes hanger I have hanging around for odd uses and stuff like this. I just bent it around the pliers a couple times. Worked good for an extension.
Really the only reason I wanted the exhaust was due to the crazy amount of heat the stocker put out.
Cool! I didn't realize that they had redesigned the 1st gen windshield. I have a Parabellum on my GS and it's great, is that the tallest one?
I just purchased the same parabellum second gen for my '89 KLR and love it. the 20 inch provides great wind protection and doesn't get in the way off road.
I would recommend to anyone looking for an upgraded windshield for me resistance.
This is from a few pages back. Today I did 540 mostly freeway miles on the bike. The windshield worked great, even at 60-70 miles an hour. The laminar lip addition from MRA continues to be very solid.
And the Sargent seat is the greatest.
Doing the Doo. (KLR650 Balancer Idle Lever & Spring upgrade)<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-comfficeffice" /><o></o>
Just a quick report for those KLR riders who may be as mechanically disinclined as I am. (Thats right: Put me in round room with 5 metal washers; Ill lose two and break the rest.)
I have about 1,100 miles on my 2011 Kawasaki KLR 650 and wanted to upgrade the balancer idle lever & spring (AKA: the Eagle Mike doohickey upgrade) before there was a problem. As you mightve read, these issues have plagued KLRs for years yet Kawasaki has yet to stand up and implement a fix. Leave that up to a local boy, San Diegos Eagle Mike (Eagle Mfg.) who fabricates and sells KLR stuff that Kawasaki should be using in their stock bikes. But I digress
I acquired new Eagle Mike doohickey and Thermo-Bob kits from a local rider who sold his KLR before he could install them. You may buy the kits on-line or from Eagle Mikes shop.
Anyhow, even though there is plenty of information about the installation process, to include the special tools that are required, I decided to have someone else do the work. I contacted Eagle Mike directly who recommended his friend and fellow gearhead Mike Sorchy who runs a high performance bike outfit (Epic Power) in the San Diego area. This meant I didnt have to purchase or borrow the special tools required for the process (even though the local SDAR guys offered to give them to me at no cost).
Mike had not previously done the doohickey upgrade (http://www.eaglemike.com/Basic-lever-kit-basic-doohickey-kit-blk.htm) on a KLR so, in consultation with Eagle Mike, he estimated he could complete the work in under three hours. And that included the Thermo-bob kit (http://shop.watt-man.com/Thermo-Bob-for-KLR650-2008-and-NEWER-TB8.htm) and an oil/filter change. How could I pass up that deal?
I dropped my bike off with Mike @ Epic Power on Monday and picked it up on Thursday. I was charged under 3 hours of labor for the entire job. If you only want the doohickey work done, it will be less.
NOTE: It appears that Mike Sorchy will be doing a lot more of these jobs as the greater San Diego area is chock full of numbskulls like me.
Anyhow, contact me if I can provide any info on the process, or contact either Mike directly. If you're in the SD area and want this work done, heres the contact info for Mike Sorchy:
Mike Sorchy/Epic Power<o></o>
1145 Greenfield Dr. Suite H <o></o>
El Cajon, CA 92021<o></o>
O: (619) 356-3742<o></o>
Videos and step-by-step instructions can easily be located all over the I-net.<o></o>
Take care, KLRistas!<o></o>
FCR 37 MX Carb w/ T-4 slip on. Good throttle response and torque.
Main Fuel: 170
Pilot Fuel: 42
Start Jet: 72
Leak Jet: 60
Pilot air: 75
Main air: 200
OBELP Needle 5th clip.
Has QuickShot2 installed as well.
What kind of seat? Is it comfy?
Don't know what it is. It's okay. It came out of my friend's garage. Seems to just be a shaved down stock seat. Its old.
been awhile since I posted in this thread, glad to see ya'll gettin it done ! No mods other than a 685 for me this year, spending most my money on riding gear, like the new darien pants and the hennesey hammock I just sprung for. I did mod the fairing on my '02 last year, works really good on the slab for wind and rain protection, far enough forward I don't worry about smacking my face into off road..
I like it.
Do you any further details about the install? Also, why did you go with the 37mm versus the 41 or 39mm, which are the more common sizes for a 650cc engine?
I had to make the intake manifold spacer. It was made on CNC mill; 6061 aluminum. It is 0.800" long; 0.850" might make for better fit. Had to carve out the starter some and the bowl on the carb. Also, shortened the stock air boot and used 1/16" Nitrile lapped three layers to build the end to fit onto the carb; used some nitrile adhesive. The orange stuff is duct tape holding it together while the adhesive cures.
I went with 37 mm because I had it from a bike I parted out, and I am not a fan of CV carbs. I thought it would be good to show it could be done as an option. I was looking for better throttle response and some better bottom end. I got that out of it; at least it feels that way.
I know there are 1,000's of tire threads here, but since I created this thread:
I just installed the Heidenau K60 Scouts on my KLR, and I must say that I am thoroughly impressed with both the on-road and off-road (sandy Pine Barrens) capabilities.
I can't wait to see how they hold up, but from what I hear from our customers, 12,000mi is possible. Big difference from the D606's I took off at 3,500mi.
I checked out a pic of the Heidenau K60s since I had never heard of them before. The tread pattern seems eerily close to the MEFO explorers, which I thought were fine on road but totally worthless off road under any conditions. I have 606s on now, I think they stink on road and aren't any better than T63s off road. As soon as these 606s are done I am going back to the Michelins. Cheap, good all around performance. Soft compound means they don't last long but I think that is one of the things that lets them bridge that on/off road gap....
I think the mefos and heidis are made at the same plant.They are both from Germany.
I ran a set of mefos years ago and was not impressed.
I think they are too hard to have good performance,thats why they last so long.I suspect the Heidis may be similar.