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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by VascoMerlin, Aug 24, 2006.
KLRistas- I can't seem to find this information in my searches of safety switch bypass mods. I did this mod so long ago, that I can't recall.
My bike has been a non-starter for a month now due to an offroad crash and my subsequent electrical bumbling to get it to restart. Anyhow...
For my safety swith bypass, I had jumpered two wires in the pictured connector below which used to connect to the starter relay. I disassembled it today to clean it because it was packed with dirt. Like an idiot, I didn't actually pay attention to which side the jumper was on before I pulled it. Minutes later, I was kicking myself.
I know it jumps one of these two combinations: black to yellow/red or blue/red to yellow/red due to the shape of the jumper.
Looking at the diagram, I'm not certain either.
Any help? Thanks
Once I figure it out, I'm just gonna solder and heat-shrink the wires for permanence.
Thanks for the information.
Looks like I picked a slow day to ask a question.
you're trying to disable the entire starter lockout circuit?
edit: after re-reading your post. black to yellow/red sounds G2G. but it also looks like black to blue red would bypass it as well. but since you had it working before, no need to change it now.
personally, i spliced both kick stand and clutch switch together at their respective locations (handlebar and kickstand).
Hmm. Seems like maybe you aren't sure. Guessing is what got me in this predicament.
The starter button connects positive voltage to the yellow/red wire. If you jump yellow/red to black then the starter switch will turn on the starter relay no matter what the clutch and side stand are doing.
If you jump the yellow/red to blue/red, you get nothing until you pull in the clutch and push the starter button at the same time. This will cause a short. I cannot tell if this will blow one fuse or two. Not highly recommended.
I did almost this behind the dashboard: http://www.advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=20759159&postcount=5197
EDIT: Black to blue/red as suggested in another post above carries no power ever. Does nothing.
(Yeah, I did the clutch bypass too.) Back to my original quandry... The black to yellow/red must be jumped in this scenario. I did the alternative, as you so strongly suggested (prior to your post edit), and nothing happened. No more starter. Jumped the black to yellow/red and now I have my starter again. That's the way it should be.
So I'm back to square one from this morning. Starter but no spark. All fuses are good. No apparent wiring or connector issues. The crash grenaded my kill switch and we hot-wired it. Still had no spark. Subsequent bumbling fried the coil. I have since replaced the kill switch and the coil. No spark. Hoping it was a safety bypass that got bumped loose or something which would interrupt the spark.
Now I wonder if it might be the CDI. Hope not. Assistance from electrical gurus is appreciated.
Do you have a service manual ?
There is testing procedures for the cdi in the manual, but you will also need an ohm meter.
Also don't forget about the pickup coil, that is under the left cover with the stator.It gives the cdi the pulse signal so the cdi knows when to pulse the power to the coil.
There are 2 coil wires.One should be ground, and the other comes from the cdi and should pulse 12 volts on and off when you crank the bike.
If you have an automotive test light you should be able to see it blink.
You can also test the resistance of the pickup coil.
When you crank the bike does your tachometer needle on your dash work ?
Because the wire from the cdi that pulses the coil also feeds the tach signal, so if your tach is working when your cranking you more than likely are getting your 12 volt pulse at the coil.
I was under the impression that those diagnostic procedures for the cdi always come back out of spec. Therefore, I didn't figure it was a viable test.
I have a local KLR inmate that I'm pleading to come by on Monday for some testing. Probably source a ohmmeter for the cdi test and rig up a light anyhow.
DD, There is a walk through on www.klr650.marknet.us that might answer some questions for you. I cant remember how I jumpered mine either....
One of the first places I went. That writeup is insufficient.
DirtyDog has a GENERATION 1 KLR650, GAS GUY, with a CDI igntion. The primary ignition coil windings of the Generation 1 bikes are pulsed with considerably more voltage than the 12 volts you suggest.
The Generation 1 CDI's are powered from alternating current from the stator exciter coil; this AC is stepped up to maybe 100 volts or so inside the CDI (the "igniter" component), this voltage is rectified, and used to charge a capacitor.
When the timing mass on the rotor passes proximate to the pickup coil, a thyristor discharges the capacitor's 100 or so volts through the ignition coil's primary windings; this voltage is transformed many times higher by induction through the ignition coil's secondary windings, firing the spark plug.
The Generation 2 ignition, by contrast, saturates the ignition coil primary windings with 12 VDC; interruption of this current induces a high voltage in the igntion coil secondary windings from the collaps of the electromagnetic field created by the saturation.
More simply put, Generation 1 KLRs have Capacitive Discharge Ignitions; Generation 2 KLRs have Inductive Discharge Ignitions, "fully-transistorized breakerless ignitions," as Kawasaki marketing prose would have it.
Thanks for the clarification on the cdi.I have never had to actually test one and assumed they were like other recent automotive systems.
I had no idea that kind of voltage was sent to the coil.
I'm looking at a Gen 1 wiring diagram in a Clymer manual and that same black wire that goes from the Cdi to the coil also splices off and goes to the tach.
So the tach gets 100 volts ?
And if it does, wouldn't DD's tach read while cranking, if he is in fact getting the make and break signal at the coil from the cdi ?
Talk about feeling like a dumbass! It took me 5 minutes to figure out I was in gear because it wouldn't start. Horn worked. Light worked. Brain didn't. Must be used to a kickstarter. FNG alert!
I got an '09. Does the steering lock? If so then how do you do it?
Is this bent too much and is it old school? I read the new ones are more stout.
Turn the handlebars all the way to the left, then turn the ignition key to the left and it will go to the lock position and simply pull the key out. I have noticed that some bikes don't lock at the full left postition so in that case, turn the the handlebars left and try turning the key left, then slightly move the handlebars to the right. It shouldn't take much. I always lock my 09. It is a good habit to do.
My latest addition, a highway dirtbikes guard setup. Going to modify the dash quite a bit, and working with Paul on some mods to the top clamp.
I love them. Top notch product.