KLR 650 Suspension upgrade

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by fourbuds, Mar 28, 2006.

  1. fixer

    fixer KLR-riding cheap bastard

    Joined:
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    Lost Wage$, NV
    here's an install on an R100 GS. while it's not a KLR, the procedure is similar.
    http://www.gunsmoke.com/motorcycling/r100gs/gold_valve/index.html

    you'll have to pull apart the forks and drill new oil passages in the stanchion tubes. same job as installing new fork seals, except for the drilling. good time to install new fork seals if needed. factory oil seals seem to be preferred. "Leakproof" brand are anything but.

    you'll want a magnet or parts grabber for when you fish the Gold Valves out of the forks to adjust them. to do that you just need to remove the fork cap, spacer and spring then you can remove the valve.

    i've gotta get them for my street bike when the budget permits. it needs the forks rebuilt anyway.
    #21
  2. JSEARS

    JSEARS Armed Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2008
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    Location:
    Marysville CA
    I am 190lbs 6foot

    2008 KLR

    Have a 465 w/RAP on the rear, want to rework the front to match better.

    Already have a Eagle Brace and PS springs

    Money is no problem...Yes I have one of those 13K+ KLRs!

    Looking at Emulators and Oil weight?

    What is this about drilling?
    #22
  3. hoyks

    hoyks Tightass KLR rider

    Joined:
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    The fork tubes have small holes in them that control the flow of oil and thus provide the damping.

    When installing emulators, the emulator will be the new way of controlling the flow of oil so the small holes in the tube are carefully by-passed... with the aid of a 1/2" drill:evil.

    Ricor make a similar drop in valve that uses a lighter weight oil and needs no drilling.
    #23
  4. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    No worries the drilling is easy and fully explained in the instructions.

    With the other mods you already have this will be the final piece to the puzzle..

    I agree on the 15w comments above...depends on bike load
    #24
  5. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    Ricor valves will totally blow your mind. I've had them in my bike a couple years. ATF and Marvel mixed 50/50 is real close to Belray 5wt. works good.
    #25
  6. nakedwaterskier

    nakedwaterskier Been here awhile

    Joined:
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    The cheapest fix is to add some air to the front forks. Don't do more than 10 psi.
    Next is the Progressive springs.

    MOST USE ATF NOW BECAUSE IT IS CHEAPER, EASIER TO FIND, AND WORKS
    FINE.

    Many get puzzled how much fluid to use. The easy answer/method, is measure how much came
    out and put the same back in.

    My rear shock wore out. So I got a 2009 model rear shock with 12k miles on it and added an Eibach spring.
    The small Harbor F. Mcpherson strut compressor costs less than $16 and does the job though I had
    to grind the claws a little.

    My suspension works great and it cost me $40 for used Progressive springs, $100 for Late model rear shock, $100 for rear Eibach spring, $11 for strut compressor, $4 Tranny fluid.

    You can easily spend $1000 but it only cost me $255
    #26
  7. subybaja

    subybaja Long timer

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    That assumes the wrench-monkey that assembled the bike or the DSPO got it right.

    Is this really so difficult? Beezer's been in a LOT of forks, many new, and most of them were way off.
    #27
  8. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    I dealt with Jay at Suspensions by Sasquatch when I blew my rear KLR shock. He rebuilt my shock and hooked me up with Race tech springs and ricor valves... I added a fork brace and wow it is like a whole new bike:clap

    any how if anyone has any suspension issues I suggest you contact Jay, he is a great guy to deal with and a fellow inmate.
    #28
  9. JSEARS

    JSEARS Armed Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 10, 2008
    Oddometer:
    324
    Location:
    Marysville CA
    Suspension Update

    Rear: Progressive 465 w/RAP

    Front: Progressive Springs, Race Tech Emulators, 10w PJ1, Eagle Brace

    Result....Fantastic on/off road ride
    #29
  10. farrington300

    farrington300 No wait....What?

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    Hey jsears, on your shock where is your preload set and how much sag do you run. I am thinking about getting this shock, but I am worried that the spring is too stiff for my weight. Figured I would ask since I am close to you in weight.
    #30
  11. JSEARS

    JSEARS Armed Adventurer

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    Marysville CA
    The RAP adjusts sag/preload, which you can do on the fly, dampening I have set on #3

    It's not too stiff, I'd call it firm, but still plush/comfortable
    #31
  12. RandoCommando

    RandoCommando Wannabe

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    Oct 12, 2011
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    Location:
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    Ok. I was concerned about a ride I have coming up in April.
    I'll be riding 2-Up on my 99 KLR 650.
    My concern was the added weight.
    As it stands right now, I'm about 200 pounds and I tend to bottom the bike out on the dirt trails.
    With my weight, about 105 pounds of passenger weight, weight of skid plate, highway pegs, PD Nerf bars, luggage and camping gear, I'm worried about handling for the long trip.
    I also want to be able to ride 50/50 dirt/street when 1-up.
    So I ordered the Progressive 465 with RAP for the rear, and Progressive Springs with 10wt oil for the front.
    I also have an Eagle Mike fork brace, which I have yet to install.
    Does this seem like a good setup?
    Any recommendations?
    Any advice on installation?
    Thanks
    #32
  13. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    It has been a few years since I did my KLR suspension upgrades but as I recall it was pretty straight forward. Get a shop manual and follow the instructions.... that's all I did.

    The shock is a simple job as long as you have a center stand or lift. If not an overhead strap can be rigged to work as well. Simple unbolt and bolt back job.

    I believe the forks have to be removed from the bike to drain all the oil, I may be wrong here but seems to me there is no drain hole in the lower leg. Either way it really is a simple job.

    Depending on the weight of your new springs and shock you should be much better than stock. and a fork brace makes a great difference as well.

    The best money I have spent on my KLR has been the suspension upgrades..
    #33
  14. fatboy

    fatboy Been here awhile

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    Georgetown, Texas
    Your correct. You remove and upend in a drain pan. 2008+ don't have the drain. Even if they did you would still want to dump them out in a pan. Then pump the lower leg to get all the oil out. I'd even separate top and bottom legs and clean everything up.
    #34