KLR 650 Turn Signal EZ move

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by hockabigloogy, Mar 24, 2010.

  1. hockabigloogy

    hockabigloogy Got Buddah?

    Joined:
    Feb 6, 2010
    Oddometer:
    87
    Location:
    Tate's Hell State Forest, flatistan
    After adding the sturdy new rack from Cycleracks.com to my 2008 KLR 650, I was not thrilled with the tabs on the rack that were provided- they were tucked under the rack, and if the rack was loaded, the signals would not be visible except from the direct rear You can see the tabs left and right of where the tool kit is- they are covered by tape. I decided to move the turn signals to a point out on the fender.
    This would work for other riders, too, that have put on panniers or other wads of aftermarket farkle on the back.
    Lacking a machine shop, I decided to "go Cheap" and utilize the existing bracket that holds the reflectors to the license plate.
    The bracket is a little flimsy, but the signals are not heavy and this will save constructing a complete new bracket.

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    This is a drawing of the reflector bracket. I used the existing holes on the original luggage rack to trace the shape of the holes on a piece of thin blue masking tape. Then I carefully centered the outline, shown here by dotted lines, on to the reflector bracket. Next, I drilled a pilot hole and cut the shape out with a saber saw, and a dremel tool. Then I used a rat tail file and a small flat file to smooth the shape. You don’t want the metal to cut the rubber on the turn signals.

    [​IMG]

    I painted the bracket red to match my fender, and placed a large rubber “pad” cut out of an old truck mud flap, to act as a platform for the bracket and keep it from being bent when it is tightened to the fender later.



    [​IMG]

    Here it is before final wiring. The holes in the fender are not exposed to water from the tire, because a sub-fender is underneath.
    When you mount the bracket it may not go on exactly parallel to the horizon, so I shimmed the top a little so the signals are parallel to the road.
    Here are a couple of other shots:

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    The bracket does vibrate when the bike is idling, and it s a little wonky, but seems to be holding out fine. It may shake the filaments of the bulbs, but they are still working fine. I will evaluate further after I run it a while. Also the signals will be the first to go if you back into something or someone taps you from the rear. I may replace the original signals later with an after-market LED array.

    You will have to extend the wires. I soldered the connections, and if you use quick disconnects I’d recommend using dielectric grease on any components. The place you will have to splice is directly under where the wheel will spray.
    I hope this helps!
    One KLR rider said I should move the license plate up as well, but that would mean moving the light, etc.

    [​IMG]
    #1
  2. GSMotorrad

    GSMotorrad Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2012
    Oddometer:
    77
    Sweet use of available extra parts! I saw your innovation and took your idea and modified it a bit to work for my system. I also used my license plate bracket, but didn't paint it. I noticed my GIVI E-581 plate's holes/bolts lined up PERFECTLY with the license plate bracket's elongated slots. (what follows uses Gen II KLR GIVI E-581 MonoKey plate and OEM License plate reflector bracket)

    There were two middle studs in the GIVI E-581 plate that I wasn't using for my E-55 Maxia trunk, so I pounded them out, but utilized the perfectly positioned holes left behind to mount my bracket underneath it all. The Maxia trunk surrounds the turn signals perfectly so I don't bump into them as I walk around the bike - they're kind of just barely tucked within the GIVI box's forcefield.

    Since it's a solid mounting point, it doesn't vibrate like yours does on the plastic fender. (I was using a kydex/plastic "S" bracket that failed miserably before) It's extremely solid and I kept the dual bolts per signal, with the original bases for rigidity as well.

    I used some huge fender-washers to spread the load out more, and a bunch of other, smaller fender-washers to make up the space between the rear rack's "frame surround" and the plastic grid - before I did this the bracket flexed/bowed in the middle when tightened down) then two more at the head, instead of grinding bolts down smaller (they were just a smidgen too long using M6 x 50mm bolts).

    I'm extremely pleased with the results, and I didn't have to file the bracket at all, merely drilled some holes - 2 through very thin plastic, and 4 through the license plate bracket. Connections are all soldered and heat-shrinked, and now everything is much easier to access.

    [​IMG]

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    http://youtu.be/Z55aEVGiKOY

    <iframe width="560" height="315" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/Z55aEVGiKOY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
    #2
  3. palmstatecrawler

    palmstatecrawler Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Apr 13, 2013
    Oddometer:
    523
    Location:
    Columbia, SC
    To the op, you should flip it around and mount your plate to it as well.
    #3
  4. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,820
    + 1 on, "the statement of the problem!"

    I have an '07, with Cyclerack and Cyclerack pannier set; the turn signals are "submarined" under the saddle bags when loaded at rearmost position.

    Excellent solution, relocating the turn signals as shown. May follow suit, except--I often mount luggage one "notch" forward, to accommodate auxiliary fuel carrier; in that position, turn signal visibility from the rear is improved considerably.

    Cyclerack luggage and auxiliary fuel container set forward for better rear visibility (KLR250 shown, but luggage interchangeable between KLRs):

    [​IMG]

    The permanent, rearward outboard position you've chosen in your mod for the turn signals appears far superior.
    #4