KLR 650 won't idle! HELP PLEASE!!!!!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by kenscott, Oct 7, 2007.

  1. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    I have done a few searches here on ADVrider and klrWorld and I am at my wits end.

    I have a 1999 KLR650 with 14,000 miles on it and I live in New England. It is stock (no air-box mods or anything) and it lives most of its time outside under a bike cover, winters too. I don't ride it that often and it routinely sits for a month or more with out being ridden. It has a sad life, I know. So the other day I went to ride it and I charged up the battery and it wouldn't really run off the choke. It started fine with the choke on but when I took off the choke it died right away. I can hold the throttle at 2500-3000 and it will run. But when I let go it drops to dead.

    What I have done. I have changed the fuel line and the vacuum line. I have cleaned the air-box and drain and the air filter. I have even run it without the air filter in it and the door open. I have cleaned the gas tank, I have taken out the petcock but not taken it apart, its screens were clean. When I did have the old fuel line (30 minutes ago) I could see it was filled with gas. I have blown out the tank vent and the hose at the bottom of the gas tank. I have cleaned out the carb vent hose (pink color). I have run the bike with the gas tank lid open as well. I have taken off the carb. I have ONLY take off the bottom and the top. I sprayed carb cleaner in all the nooks and crannies, I took off the bladder and the needle. I didn't not take off the float bowl or any of the screws/jets. I did spray a ton of carb cleaner in it. It was very clean. I always try to put in stabil and sea-foam and in winter I fill the tank up 100% with stabil in it. What am I missing, I am pissed as I have put in new tires and I can't even ride it....

    Help me please!

    Thanks!

    Ken
    #1
  2. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    15,250
    Location:
    Richmond, Va
    Remove idle jet, and spray carb cleaner though it, and through the orifice that is came out of. Also, turn idle mixture screw in til it lightly seats, counting turns exactly. Remove it, as well as the o-ring and washer, and spray carb cleaner though all those orifices as well. You should be able to get a good clean spray of cleaner to come out of the mixture screw hole, as well as the small idle holes in front of the butterfly, by spraying into the pilot jet hole.

    Pilot jet has a very small orifice, most likely it is clogged.

    Do you have access to compressed air?
    #2
  3. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    I don't really have compressed air access......

    Ken
    #3
  4. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    15,250
    Location:
    Richmond, Va

    It would help, but it's not necessary.. Just use lots of carb cleaner when spraying through all the orifices..


    When you pull the idle jet, hold it up to the light and look through it. I'll bet it's clogged. When it's un-clogged, you'll see that it's like a pinpoint, very easily clogged..
    #4
  5. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    Thanks for all this quick help!

    I do have a few questions...The FLoat bowl, it seems like it is on there pretty good. I also read some where that I can mess up the float bowl level? I don't want to do that, Is that just a spring clip or something? Also I think that I have to drill out a cap on the pilot jet? Is this correct? I know to go slow...any other suggestions?

    Thanks.

    Ken
    #5
  6. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2007
    Oddometer:
    8,989
    Location:
    Tulsa... it's OK
    one thing that's quick- try simply adjusting the idle screw. maybe it's too far out and the bike is just dying as a result. Doesn't require disassembling anything. Just screw it in a few turns (Righty-tighty) before starting. If it miraculously stays running, simply adjust the screw to achieve 1,200-1,500 RPM. Look into the simple things first...

    Good luck
    #6
  7. Dolly Sod

    Dolly Sod I want to do right, but not right now

    Joined:
    Aug 18, 2003
    Oddometer:
    15,250
    Location:
    Richmond, Va

    This is true, but he's already got the carb off.. :evil


    You will have to drill out the cap to get to the idle mixture screw, if it hasn't been done before. Just be gentle, and try no to let the drill bit jump through and start turning the idle mixture screw (most people set it 2 - 2 1/2 turns out anyhow, but you don't want the drill to over tighten it and damage the needle)

    The pilot jet will be right there in the float chamber. I can't remember now if it takes a flat blade screw driver or a wrench. If it takes a screw driver, get one that fits perfect. I've actually ground a flat blade special for removing jets. Make sure you have good/perfect purchase on the jet before you start turning on it. If your screw driver jumps out of the jet, you can booger up the area where it takes in fuel, and that will affect (to some degree) its flow characteristics..

    You can't mess up the float level, unless you start bending the tang on the float it-self, but if I had the carb apart, I'd make sure it was adjusted correctly from the factory. It's really not hard to check and set..

    Good luck..
    #7
  8. Dagofast

    Dagofast Full giggety ahead.

    Joined:
    Jun 15, 2005
    Oddometer:
    1,948
    Location:
    Arizona
    I have nothing to add to the excellent repair advise already given. But if you don't expect any change in your riding habits, I'll throw in .02 about a little prevention.

    When you get it back together and running, buy a bottle of Sta-bil and always mix the correct amount in each tank of gas. That should keep your carb from getting gummed up again.
    #8
  9. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    Ok, so after all this help I drilled out that plug and took the carb all apart. I cleaned everything with carb cleaner and sprayed it with canned air, I don't have an air compressor. The carb looked pretty clean to start with. So now the bike starts and seems to run fine at Idle. But now when I get on the throttle it runs really bad. The engine makes a bap, bap, bap sound, like it is misfiring and I get a ton of whitish smoke out the tail pipe. If I hold the choke open I can have it rev up to 3,000 and the engine is smooth, no smoke. BUT if I just grab the throttle up to 3,000 it runs like crap.

    Watch the video.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pT1XQO_JAgg

    I start the bike and it idles fine. I then pull out the choke and it gets up to 2,000-2,500 just fine, smooth. Then I close the choke and grab the throttle. If you listen to the engine it is making a bap, bap, bap noise.

    Now what?

    spark plug?

    Thanks!

    Ken
    #9
  10. thunderlog

    thunderlog Beemer Pilot

    Joined:
    Oct 1, 2007
    Oddometer:
    25
    Location:
    on da road
    well most likely the problem is still with the carb, this time self induced. 1st, Do you have a book? you should really get one- anyway, it sounds as if it is running rich off idle. what all did you take apart? sounds as if its sucking extra fuel, maybe the main jet is loose/ missing? needle could be not seating too or in the wrong slot when you reassembled it. 1st did you make sure you didnt loose the tiny oring and washer for the idle bleed screw- are the choke and throttle cables reattached properly? all this palava would be better answered by the book.... perhaps someone out there could scan and email the relative pages to you.
    #10
  11. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    I have the 2 Kawasaki manuals, I have read this and this

    In the last link I see that there are 2 shims under the main needle, I don't have any shims under my needle. Did they fall out or something? Could that be my problem?

    Thanks,

    Ken
    #11
  12. eaglemike

    eaglemike Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    904
    Location:
    san Diego
    The shims under the needle are "performance enhancements." Not needed just to get it running. Check for vacuum leaks - are all the vacuum fittings on? Pettcock, carb? Is the hose good? Did the diaphragm in the carb get installed without pinching? Does it have any tears or holes?

    If it's running rich, then it's usually crud on the needle or needle seat. If it won't take throttle, it's usually a vacuum leak or diaphragm tear.

    all the best,

    Mike
    #12
  13. kenscott

    kenscott Adventurer

    Joined:
    May 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    81
    Location:
    Los Angeles, Ca.
    Mike,

    Thanks!

    I am pulling the carb again.....I took out the plug and here is what I found... I will take out the carb again and take a look at the top part.

    The plug looks bad....now what?

    Thanks

    Ken
    #13