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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by g23.40sw, Jul 5, 2012.
My 2000 with 11,000 miles does not burn oil.
Very well stated
I get what you're sayin. Done a lot of research on just about everything and have farkeled what I wanted. As for the oil burning it's been minimal for daily commuting if I've even worried about it at all. Checked before every ride but nothing to worry about. It's been on this long haul with many super slab miles at 75+ mph for long periods. The big picture it's been less than a quart for 1000 miles. I just don't like the fact it does. Used to not having to worry about it with other vehicles. I'm not worried about it causing major issues and will once back on the road have another quart to top off if or rather when needed. Thanks to you all for the feedback and input.
The KLR is a known bike... the issues are known. It is what it is, and it is still the best bang for the buck. It also has more adventure touring miles than other single bike.
Subframe bolts.... really hard to break them if they are tight. Replacing them with stronger bolts is about $2 at the bolt store.
Oil... pour in the 2.5 liters it calls for and you will see that the glass is covered just before you pull the bike level.
Pistons... yes there is a rash of bad ones in the 02-07 range and bad rings in the 08-09 (and the occasional one outside those years). 685 or a 688 will fix that. There is not much of a power change unless you diddle with the head, but they are smoother. Some pistons last forever... drive it until it gives problems then do the mod. Mine puked at about 20k. I did the 685 & the guys that bored the hole dicked it up & it started burning oil after about 3k. I now have 7k on a 705 (done right) and it does not use oil. 1000 miles of high speed hiway with a load & no noticible change.
The doo is something that needs to be done even on the Gen II bikes. My new 05 had a broken spring at less than 3000 miles, less than 6 months old. I did one that had 1200 miles, never serviced, but... broken. Now I've done dozens, there are a lot of bad & broken parts and mostly due to the design. Yes, overtorquing bends the lever so it won't adjust. It is a bad design, period. Gen II is better, but not good enough, do it, the fix is $40. I have also seen a few grenaded engines from doo lever & spring parts going where they were not meant to be.