KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. Hannda

    Hannda Short, fat, bearded, slow

    Joined:
    Apr 27, 2005
    Oddometer:
    28,584
    Location:
    Not yet far enough away from town
    Nice looking. If it's really hard to start check the valves. Made all the difference on the one we used to have.
  2. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    Valve adjustment cleared up my hard start problem on my 88
  3. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    Changed my stock blinkers out for some LED I made up myself. Problem is they dont blink anymore. Relay? Anyone familiar with this problem?
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  4. bennyprofane

    bennyprofane grasshopper

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    @Brash1 -I've been doing a little research on LED signals and it looks like the non-blinking issue is caused by a lack resistance in the circuit. I'm far from understanding the electrical theory behind it, but the issue seems to be that the blinker relay is not being triggered because the power draw from the LED is so low that it acts as though there is a burned out bulb by not blinking (some turn signals will blink faster but the KLR goes solid). You can buy resistors on ebay:
    http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/2X-L...2005490QQptZMotorcyclesQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories

    Hope that helps.
  5. 250senuf

    250senuf Long timer

    Joined:
    Feb 17, 2008
    Oddometer:
    2,462
    Location:
    Nelson area, Kootenai, BC, Canada
    A solid state flasher (non-load dependant) will also do the trick. Stop in at your local jobber and ask. NAPA, UAP, or whomever you've got in your part of the world.
  6. henrymartin

    henrymartin Mr. Tourguide

    Joined:
    Sep 11, 2010
    Oddometer:
    3,724
    Location:
    South of the Great North Woods
    +1

    Or, match the load in the rear.

    This is what happened with mine: Once LED went up front, front worked fine. Connected rear stock and rear worked, but front did nothing. Chased it up and down like crazy and got nowhere. Then I changed rear to LED and now both work like a charm. Did not change the flasher.

    try it and see if this works for you by taking one of the fronts and hooking it up rear on the same side.
  7. Gravetter

    Gravetter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    229
    Location:
    S.Indiana
    Is $500 plus me driving 140 miles (one-way) a decent deal for an '89 with 8,000 miles that runs but is smoking (rings, maybe)?

    I was wrong about the 20,000 miles. It has 8k.
  8. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,523
    Location:
    North central CT
    yes...if you can wrench her yourself, otherwise no.
  9. Gravetter

    Gravetter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    229
    Location:
    S.Indiana

    Wrench no problem. I'll be pulling the engine and giving her a good re-build before anything.
  10. LoCoMatt

    LoCoMatt Busy

    Joined:
    Jul 14, 2009
    Oddometer:
    491
    Location:
    Good 'ole Loudoun County, VA
    I just sold my well running, good looking '99 with 4,500 miles for $1K. I'd probably try to talk him down some more on this one.

    The market for these is not that great (at least around here anyway). The discussion usually stopped right after "why yes, it is kick start only". Never bothered me, but it seems to turn off a lot of people.
  11. Gravetter

    Gravetter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    229
    Location:
    S.Indiana


    Interesting.

    He sent me email after I sent him a lot of questions. The only thing that caught my attention was this:

    Q: Has the bike been modified in any way that you know of?
    A: The piston & cylinder that is in it now is oversize but I don't know by how much


    What worries me is that if I need to get a new set of rings, it could become a pain in the ass finding the proper ones. Thoughts, anyone? I tried talking him down, he just dropped the price by $100 so he set at 500.

    Also, I was wrong about the miles. Only has 8k...
  12. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,523
    Location:
    North central CT
    I believe there are #'s on the top of the piston that will indicate what over size exists. If they went to maximum and the bore is worn enough, you may have to buy a new cylinder, piston etc. If you can get a bore scope in your hands you may see the top of the piston through the spark plug hole. I'm sure someone will be along soon to remind you that some of the most expensive bikes/boats/airplanes are the cheapest ones.
  13. Gravetter

    Gravetter Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2010
    Oddometer:
    229
    Location:
    S.Indiana
    Yeah, I've decided to keep my patience and continue my search. Really appreciate all the responses. Wish the used market was larger in my area (s. Indiana).
  14. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    Where can I get a gasket/o-ring for a petcock? Mine leaks and when i took it apart it had a tear in the gasket.
  15. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,523
    Location:
    North central CT
    I bought mine from the local Kaw dealer.
  16. K7NUT

    K7NUT Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    76
    Location:
    North Central Oregon
    Looks good! You gave her a second chance at life!:clap

    DUDE! I can't get the swing arm off my wife's '88 either?
    I have beat and banged on that thing and I get it to move maybe a 1/4"!
    I love your write up, it's humorous and informative, OK, more humorous!:lol3
    I hav'nt finished the thread yet, but I will.
  17. K7NUT

    K7NUT Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    76
    Location:
    North Central Oregon
    I noticed how noisy the 250 is when I got the wife's bike home, but what was so noisy was the timing chain!
    I finally got it running, but it smoked REAL bad and made noise, but then the noise stopped!
    But so did the engine! Timing chain broke!:eek1
    I have the details on my web site...

    http://www.mcallisterdrywall.com/KLRnet/KLR250/250progress.html

    I learning the 250, more familiar with the big brother, but I'll learn!
  18. K7NUT

    K7NUT Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    76
    Location:
    North Central Oregon
  19. K7NUT

    K7NUT Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 16, 2005
    Oddometer:
    76
    Location:
    North Central Oregon
    I know what you mean Jon, so when I installed my new clutch in my '87 650, I added a few parts!:lol3:clap

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  20. bennyprofane

    bennyprofane grasshopper

    Joined:
    Aug 3, 2010
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Ann Arbor, Michigan
    Hello all,

    I'm putting my carb back together after a thorough cleaning and I'm having a problem. The needle jet holder "collar" -the silver bit that protrudes into the carb body- did not come out easily when I was dissembling, and now will not go back in without what feels like excessive force. Here are my questions:

    -How far should the collar protrude in to the carb body?

    -Should the brass "holder" - the perforated brass bit that the main jet screws into- screw all the way into its hole, or are there threads visible it is fully installed?

    -What effect will leaving some of the threads exposed on the overall performance?

    I ask because the holder is pressing up snug against the collar, leaving maybe 1.5-2 turns worth of threads exposed. The holder seems to be constructed of soft brass, so I don't want to force it and damage the part try to push the collar into place.

    I'm fairly new to motorcycle wrenching (and riding) so any advice, no matter how seemingly simple, is greatly appreciated.

    Cheers!