KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    It doesn't even matter if it leaks a bit, as long as the hose is in the antifreeze. My jeep has a beer can, works fine.

    All typos and misspellings blamed on my phone.
  2. rube

    rube Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Oct 10, 2004
    Oddometer:
    101
    Location:
    Pinehurst, NC
    So the stock coolant overflow tank interfered with the idle speed screw, float bowel drain screw, and the choke on the Mikuni TM33 I mounted on my KLR250.
    I made a new, smaller tank from a baby bottle (clear and heat resistant). Now I can drain the float bowl, reach the idle screw and it looks like I can fit the carb mounted choke plunger. Right now the baby bottle is zip tied to the frame. If it seems to work, I'll work out a better mount.
    I drilled two holes through the baby bottle flat storage top, epoxied a couple hose barbs in the holes. One of the barbs has a hose inside the bottle that hooks to the radiator tube, the othe barb hooks outside the bottle to the vent tube that goes to the rear fender. The baby bottle nipple flange is being used as a gasket.

    I think it will work. If it warms up a little next week I'll get some more riding in with the new carb and catch tank.

    rube
  3. flinch

    flinch n00b

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    My kickstart jammed. I'd ride to a buddy's house and went out to start it 30 minutes later and it wouldn't move. I assumed the worst but figured I'd try some simple things. I changed the oil and filter, and it started to kick through but with hellacious resistance. It's started to get better but wont push start either. I'd like to fix it, but looking for suggestions.
  4. dfye55

    dfye55 Been here awhile

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    First thing I'd guess would be hydro lock. Remove plug and see if it cranks. CAREFUL, make sure key is off... if it was a leaky carb filling cylinder, and you crank the gas out the plug hole and generate a spark, big explosion or fire.

    Second thought is compression release not working.

    Good luck.

    Sent from mobile
  5. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Ditto above plug removal. I'd also suggest popping the valve cover for visual inspection- perhaps an adjuster got loose and tightened up valve clearances. Other thoughts:

    With valve cover off, take out the cam chain tensioner. Easy to do, easy to cross off your list of suspects.

    KACR issue- I've had the spring missing in a project bike, and although it will make kicking harder it will not make it a chore. But again, one of those things you can cross off.

    Definitely would not force start it, that could cause serious damage at this point. Dig under the covers, see what you can see.
  6. flinch

    flinch n00b

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    That looks good
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  7. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Photos are a bit small, can you post up larger ones?

    Huh, in Gville too eh :D. Shoot me a PM, happy to swing by and take a gander.
  8. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Here ya go

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    First glance is the Kawasaki Auto Compression Release (KACR) came off the exhaust cam. Or rather, the pieces off :D. The KACR keeps the exhaust valve slightly open to ease starting- once it's running it releases. You don't *need* it to start, but it will make your life easier. I believe it is pressed onto the end of the cam, and apparently it came off somehow and grenaded. I'd bet that there are other parts of the KACR floating around causing issues.

    In any case, we'll dig into it a bit more and see what other damage we can do. Find, I meant find :evil
  9. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    Anyon know if a green KLR250 owner from about Pompano Beach or Deerfield Beach is in this thread? I saw him in a local neighborhood the other day, and am willing to ride with any dual sport riders that are down here (the very few of us there are).
  10. rube

    rube Been here awhile

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    Oct 10, 2004
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    101
    Location:
    Pinehurst, NC
    I recently installed a mikuni tm33 pumper carb on my klr250.
    I've only run one tank of gas through it so far.
    The acceleration is better than stock. I have not really tried to wheelie it yet, but it does feel possible, where I could not wheelie it with the stock cv carb.
    I use the bike to commute. I've got a cycleracks rack with a top box.
    I was getting 60-70 mpg on my commute with the stock carb. The first tank of gas with the pumper gave me 40.7 mpg! I was not expecting such a dramatic drop, and coasted into the gas station this morning having run it empty on reserve.
    I like the acceleration with the new carb but am not sure if I can live with the milage. With the stock tank being less than 3 gallons I'm going to have to fill the tank every day for my 37 mile one way commute. I don't think there are any aftermarket tank options which significantly increase the tank size. Am I wrong?

    rube
  11. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    I think Clark makes a plastic aftermarket tank for the KLR250; not a great increase in volume over OEM, IIRC.

    But . . . you already have a Cyclerack; you can get pannier hangers from Cyclerack, with sheet metal plate drilled for a Kolpin auxiliary fuel container bracket, and rig up something like this (you don't have to have the panniers and top case):

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    KLR650 shown, but . . . accessories fit KLR250 Cyclerack also (I have both).

    I use 1.25 gallon Pioneer container; the larger Kolpin and maybe other containers (e.g., Rotopacks (?)) will fit the bracket also; don't know about the clearance with the larger vessels, might have to mount them outboard. If you mount auxilary fuel containers both left and right side, the right one MUST go outboard, IMHO, to clear the exhaust heat sufficiently.

    P.S. No pumper carb expert, I, but . . . I imagine you could improve your fuel mileage by 1) Re-jetting your carb, and 2) Avoiding opening and closing the throttle excessively; as you know, each time you turn the throttle you squirt raw gasoline into your venturi! Again, conjecture and speculation, ideas offered in hope they might be helpful in improving your fuel economy.
  12. handyman1018

    handyman1018 way up firm and high

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    Jul 4, 2011
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    Old stock fender was pretty beat up and I just wanted a change. Got this from Dennis Kirk (part 61-9222) delivered for under $25. Had to drill new mounting holes but I like the look of it and smaller profile should slice thru the wind better.

    <a href="http://s1028.beta.photobucket.com/user/Fluffy_Dog_1018/media/IMG_3363_zps19c1ed39.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y343/Fluffy_Dog_1018/IMG_3363_zps19c1ed39.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo IMG_3363_zps19c1ed39.jpg"/></a>
  13. hogbot3112

    hogbot3112 n00b

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    Newbie here but I thought I'd post the bike in here!

    [​IMG]

    Bought it a few years ago for a couple of hundred quid, spent a few hundred more on running gear parts etc and now I used it as my commuter hack etc and its brilliant!:D paint job is rattle can special but tbh it's better then the crazed, multicoloured glory it was before
  14. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Pretty sharp for a rattle can :-)
  15. hogbot3112

    hogbot3112 n00b

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    Like anything, it's all in the prep. Took my sweet time on it and it looks ok from that distance :lol3

    I've got new rear shock on it, new progressive front springs and I've dynojet'd the thing to boot.
  16. skypilot

    skypilot I Roam therefor I am

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    711
    Anybody have an older style fairing for sale? I have a dark blue 93 with a crack in the fairing. I have an extra front fender to trade or will pay cash
  17. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Nov 23, 2011
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    New KLR250 owner here. I bought a 2002 with just under 5,000 miles on it this morning. It needs some work though.

    I took it out on the trails by my house and it took me about 45 minutes to do three miles. It takes about 20-30 kicks (literally. I started counting) to get it started each time. Whew. That gets tiring real quick... Especially when it stalls about two dozen times on a three mile ride. I hope there was nobody within about a mile of me in the woods. I was swearing up a storm!

    It's about 30 degrees F here. I needed to leave the choke on, at least part way, the entire ride. It would then start feeling like it was going to die and there was nothing I could do to keep it running. The engine would start bogging down, and I could pull in the clutch and give it gas and keep the revs up temporarily... But as soon as I let off the gas it would die. After kicking the hell out of it, it would finally roar to life and run good, and then a minute or so later it would start bogging down again.

    I'm going to do the easy 'fix' first and throw some Sea Foam in there and see if that improves anything. If that doesn't work, I'll pull the carb and clean it up good and check the plug and see what that tells me. It has an aftermarket exhaust and was rejetted. I have the stock jet as well. I may just throw that back in too if the plug looks like it's running too rich. What are the recommended settings on the stock jet?

    Any other common things to do on this bike? The previous owner said he recently checked the valve clearances. I guess it couldn't hurt to do that as well, just to be sure.
  18. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Honestly I'd skip the seafoam and pull the carb for a detail clean. That way you're starting from a known point if further issues present. Your hard starting issues scream "tight valves", recommend you double check the PO's work.

    Have fun!
  19. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Thanks. Yeah, you're probably right. No point in skipping out on doing what needs to be done. Thanks for the tip on the valves. I'll definitely check them. There's also no valve chatter, so tight is a possibility.

    From what I can gather, the service manual is a two-fer deal? You've gotta get the KLR600 and the KLR250 supplement, right? Also, does it matter what year manuals I get? The cheapest ones from Ebay are manuals for the '80s model bikes, but there were no real significant changes over the years, were there?
  20. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    You've been given good advice here. I have an additional thing to check.

    The choke cable enters the carb through a 90* plastic fitting. If it is cracked, as mine was, starting will be horrible. My guess is that engine vacuum pulls through the cracked fitting instead of the enrichment circuit. If that is the case, you're not really getting a rich mixture for starting. You may be able to putty over the crack with plumber's putty to see if it makes a difference.

    Given that the bike is new to you, checking valve clearances is a top priority.

    There is a good tutorial for that here:

    http://home.earthlink.net/~klr250informationexchange/index.htm