KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. dfye55

    dfye55 Been here awhile

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    I've got the uni-trac suspension disassembled and bearings cleaned out. The service manual says molybdenum disulfide grease. My local NAPA store did not have something by that name, but sold me Sta-Lube Moly-Graph grease http://crcindustries.com/auto/?s=SL3330 that has some molybdenum disulfide in it (their word from MSDS data).

    My local Kawasaki dealer said he did not sell any molybdenum disulfide grease either. I didn't ask what they would have done if I asked them to lubricate it.

    I found rockymountain atv has molybdenum disulfide grease: Yamalube. http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...denum-Disulfide-Grease?term=molybdenum+grease

    So is the Moly-graph grease I have sufficient? :huh
  2. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Looks close enough that I wouldn't loose sleep over it. Personally I like grease that is also marine rated, but that's due to all the puddles I stall out in :-)
  3. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    What does it taste like?
  4. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Yeesh. I hope I didn't just buy a money pit.

    I started with pulling the plug. The gap was too wide, the electrode was melted a slight bit on one end, and there was some oil... Not exactly promising.

    I then moved on to the valve clearance check. The rocker arm adjusting screws and the top of the valve don't lie parallel to each other. I tried to get a picture, but the camera didn't show anything useful. Here's a drawing of what I'm talking about.

    [​IMG]

    To be honest, I've only done valve clearance checks on shim-under-bucket type valves, so I don't know if this is normal or not.

    And just to double-check, I should be checking clearances at the TDC when the cam lobes are facing outward, right?

    If so, here are the just awful clearance measurements I got:

    Left intake: No clearance
    Right intake: No clearance
    Left exhaust: 0.011" (0.279mm)
    Right exhaust: No clearance

    I'm hoping I screwed something up somewhere in my measurements, but I really don't think I did. Those are bizarre clearance measurements. I'm tired and need to be up early tomorrow. I'll tackle getting them adjusted tomorrow.



    Oh, and I didn't win the Powerball... Again. :lol3
  5. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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  6. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    I re-did the whole procedure with the exact same measurements. I'm fairly certain those measurements are correct.

    Can anyone confirm that the rocker arm adjusting screws and the valve stems are not supposed to be parallel, such as I have drawn in my picture (though a bit exaggerated)?
  7. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Not trying to blow you off or insult your intelligence, max384, but . . . there are TWO (2) TDC piston positions for each four-stroke cycle; you adjust your valve clearance on the one between compression and power strokes (NOT exhaust and intake strokes), when ALL VALVES ARE COMPLETELY CLOSED.

    From the zero clearances you report, I thought maybe you have the wrong TDC position; maybe not.

    Agree with those who suggest carburetor disassembly, cleaning, and adjustment. As to starting difficulty, I've found on my own KLR250, sometimes closing the petcock (lever horizontal) and kicking it through a few times purges the system of excess fuel (as in, flooding from overly-generous float valve) helps to get it going. I probably need to disassemble, clean, and adjust carburetor myself!

    Would advise adjusting fuel screw (idle mixture) and checking "choke" cable connection to carb (as suggested previously).

    Good luck, and--KLR250's forever!

    -----------------

    As to the valve lash setscrew in the rocker and the valve stem interface contact, ain't no thang, IMHO. Set the clearance between the two (at the proper TDC point) and ride on!
  8. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Here is a thread on another forum showing the adjusters. The picture is in the seventh post. There may be other info there helpful to you. Maybe we're all in denial hoping it isn't so but if your valves are in fact that tight, it could mean real trouble.

    The key to the valve clearance check is to make sure the cam lobe is fully away from the valve rocker. Setting the flywheel in the right place coming from the correct direction should yield that. If your valves are that tight you can adjust the clearance and hope for the best. Tight valves can leak compression and burn the valve seats. While there, take a look at the KACR (Kawasaki Automatic Compression Release) mechanism. The weights should be held in place by a spring (or two, I can't remember). If that hangs up it can cause a compression leak that will cause hard starting.

    Tight valves may or may not exist on your bike but some carb issues could also be contributing to the problem.
  9. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    No insult taken at all. I'd rather be given too much simple information, rather than not enough and be left confused. Besides, the very concise "between compression and power strokes" explanation helps me now know that I definitely have the right TDC. It was the TDC right after the intake valves closed. Naturally compression and power strokes would follow. So, I'm good there. Honestly, the only reason I second-guessed myself was because of how bad the measurements were. Probably the same reason why you would (wisely) consider that I may have the wrong TDC.

    Just for shits and giggles and for the sake of argument though, I moved it to the other TDC and there was no clearance in any of them.

    I stopped by the local shop to pick up a new spark plug. I asked one of the techs about whether the valve stem and rocker arm adjustment screw were supposed to be parallel. He said it's perfectly normal for them not to be. At least some good news.

    Anywho, I got friends coming over and won't get back to the bike until the weekend. Hopefully I'll get it out on the trail by the end of the weekend.
  10. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Yeah, hopefully I don't have problems caused by the (now) obviously tight valves. We'll see.

    Thanks for the tip on the KACR. I honestly never heard of that before, so I'll have to read up on it.

    I'm done for the day. I'll be back to work on it over the weekend. Thanks for all your help so far guys!
  11. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    You're 10 bolts away from pulling the cams, can check them and their journals for wear.
  12. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    I shall pray for you:D
  13. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Okay, so what I've done so far:
    -adjusted valve clearances
    ----dropped feeler gauge into engine (on the very last valve after verifying they were all in spec!)
    ----removed generator cover
    ----...
    -changed oil (well still haven't added new oil yet obviously
    -flushed and refilled coolant
    -installed new chain and sprockets
    -cleaned and oiled air filter
    -removed carburetor and have started cleaning it

    What I still need to do:
    -remove flywheel to get feeler gauge (I am going to borrow a flywheel puller from a friend to remove it later today or tomorrow)
    -replace battery
    -front fork seals and oil
    -replace rear chain guard
    -replace tail light lens
    -install rear turn signals
    -install new front brake line (stock one has a small leak)



    Now for the questions!

    I am replacing the larger jets put in by the PO and want to put it back to stock more or less because I hate carbs and I hate playing with them to get everything right. I've replaced the main and pilot jets back to stock. What is the recommended fuel/air mixture screw setting? I screwed it all the way in and backed out two turns. The bike has a slip-on exhaust if that matters.

    My second question is in regards to part number 16017-1265 (jet-needle), the one with the red arrow pointing towards it on the diagram:

    [​IMG]

    The part in question doesn't look like the parts diagram piece. Here's a picture of what I pulled off of the carb:

    [​IMG]

    I'm not entirely sure whether this is a non-stock part, or whether the diagram has it drawn slightly incorrectly (which I've found is not all that uncommon). What do you guys say?


    I'm replacing the rear turn signals with some LED ones I have laying around. Will these work with the stock flasher relay? Or will I need to add resistors and/or a new relay? If it won't work, does anyone make a plug and play electronic relay for this bike? Or does anyone know the correct size resistors to add?
  14. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Can you reach down into the engine with a grabber to get the feeler gauge?

    I took my flywheel off last year and it was pretty easy to do. After removing the bolt that holds it on. I found an appropriately sized metric bolt (actually the rear axle bolt of my friend's KLX250) and screwed it into the center of the flywheel. With the bike in 6th gear I turned the bolt until the flywheel popped off.

    I understand the changes you are making. It may be too late for this but I would caution you to not change too many things at once. After setting the valves it would be good to know what if anything has changed in the way it runs.

    If the tight valves have allowed the head to be damaged, you may want to hold off on farkling the bike.

    Good luck!
  15. rube

    rube Been here awhile

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    The silver part in your photo appears to be 16017 (called the jet needle on the parts diagram I am looking at) and the brass part to the left is 13091 (holder, needle jet) and 92063 (jet main).

    On most carbs that I have cleaned the 16017 part has not come out of the carb easily/if at all. On my KLR250 it did come out and looked just like in your photo. As I recall it is directional with a bevel on one end that seems to let the needle slide in more easily when the carb slide returns to the down positioni. You can see the tip of 16017 in the throat of the carb when it is seated all the way.

    I would recommend not going with stock jetting but understand your frustration with spending the time trying to get the jetting right. From what I read (and found on my one klr250) the stock jetting is pretty lean. With an aftermarket pipe I would think the lean condition would be exagerated on your bike. It should get great milage with the stock jetting though - so there is a benefit!

    I have a 125 main and 38 pilot factory Kiehin jets in my stock carb. The bike runs well with a slightly modified stock exhaust and no airbox snorkle.

    Be sure to clean out all the jets you cannot replace. On my carb it took many tries at spraying and soaking and finally I had to use a small MIG welder tip cleaning wire to clean out the non-removable main air jet and starter jet to get the bike to start easily and idle well.

    Good luck.

    rube
  16. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    I tried telescoping magnets and grabbers and unfortunately the only way I can figure to get it is to pull the flywheel off. I tore the generator cover gasket and I need a new plastic bolt piece for the carb (where the choke cable attaches to the carb), so pulling the flywheel isn't a big deal or a time sink since I'll be waiting for parts anyhow.

    It is too late, and I had considered that myself (but too late also)... I really should have done one thing at a time. But I guess I'll just have to hope for the best now.

    So far I've spent about $200ish on various replacement parts. Hopefully no serious damage has been done to the head with the tight valves. If it has, I'm not too deep into the bike though.

    Thanks Rube. Good to hear that piece is the one I had hoped it was. I hadn't actually noticed the bevel before. Thanks!

    I also have the stock exhaust that I may throw on if it's running lean... Or maybe I'll have a change of heart and play with the jetting once I get it running. I have the 118 (that I just put back in), 125, and 130 mains and another pilot, I think 40.

    I was pretty thorough with cleaning the carb up. I'm pretty hopeful I won't have any follow-up work to do with that (well, other than maybe adjusting the mixture screw).

    Do you think two turns back on the mixture screw is a good start point?
  17. bigfishs

    bigfishs Adventurer

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    Its unlikely any leds will flash properly without resistors. I put resistors in front and back but should have just done the flasher unit that goes under the tank. There is a thread here somewhere that talks about it. You can fit resistors in under the front light fairing and under the tool kit in the rear if you decide to go that route.

    On a separate note, I love this forum. You guys are so freaking nice and helpful.:clap
  18. DrMoto

    DrMoto Adventurer

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    I replaced every bulb except headlight on my bike with LED. I used an electronic flasher; way easier than messing with resistors, and with resistors you'll just waste power as (a small amount) of heat. I wanted that electricity for heated grips.
  19. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    I believe the plastic 90* choke cable fitting was the source of my starting problems. I cleaned the carb, reamed out everything, drilled out what I could and finally bought a WHOLE NEW CARB! After all this time and money I became aware that a broken choke cable fitting can keep the bike from starting. The air travels through the crack rather than raising the diaphragm to enrichen the mixture.

    I suppose I could install the old broken one on the new carb and try it out but I really don't want to know.:deal
  20. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    Thanks guys for all the help. I have a big exam on Friday, plus I have to wait for parts, so I won't get back to work on the bike for another week... But be prepared for more questions in a week!


    I'd rather go the electronic flasher relay route, but I don't mind using the extra power with resistors, since blinkers are on for such a small amount of time.

    This is a great forum for sure!

    Which electronic flasher did you use? Was it a plug and play? Or one of the auto parts store specials that you need to solder in place? Either is fine, but I'd prefer a plug and play if they're out there.

    The 90* fitting wasn't broken. It was the plastic piece that attaches the 90* fitting to the carb that was cracked... But I wonder if the same symptoms would ensue for either one?