KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,957
    Location:
    CT exile now in NH
    Someone gave me the torque spec. It was a range. I used 69 inch pounds because, well, I liked the number.:lol3
  2. dfye55

    dfye55 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Mar 11, 2012
    Oddometer:
    274
    Location:
    south central Indiana
    I just looked through the klr250 supplement and the KLR600 base manual, I saw no specification for those bolts. Kinda like an electrical engineer wrote that section and did not care about torque. Maybe I missed something.

    Don
  3. max384

    max384 Bandaided

    Joined:
    Nov 23, 2011
    Oddometer:
    3,856
    Location:
    Hazleton, PA
    What was the range, do you remember?

    I looked through them both and didn't see it either. I wonder if it's just a general range based upon the size of the bolt?


    I did about 35 miles offroad on the bike today with no problems at all. She runs like a top! No oil leaking around the generator cover either, despite missing one of the bolts. Obviously I'm not going to just leave it like that, but it'll do for now.
  4. bigfishs

    bigfishs Adventurer

    Joined:
    Oct 11, 2007
    Oddometer:
    46
    Location:
    albany, NY
    Found them on ebay, thanks!

    Bike passed the state inspection so I went for a ride at lunch. Got some strange looks from people returning to work..pants got a bit muddy after going off-road exploring:rofl

    [​IMG]
  5. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    Been working from can to cant lately. But im back with my problem. Klr still won't crank cold without a shot of ether/carb cleaner or something flammable! Took the carb and stock choke cable (with a cracked plastic nut,you know the one im talkin about)off my 88 model. 5 kicks later, up and running. So, I'm gonna swap them again and put the stock cable on the problem bike. Hoping it will crank like that. If so ill throw away that aftermarket choke and buy a stocker. Any other suggestions? Hope to get back to it by the weekend.
  6. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,865
    Would be surprised if your problem's the "choke." The device remains pretty simple; the plunger is an IN/OUT OFF/ON device; when OFF the plunger plugs its fuel orifice in the carb and an associated air passage; when ON, both these are opened to provide a fuel-rich starting mixture.

    The cable and means used to insert and withdraw the enriching plunger shouldn't be critical, IMHO; YMMV!

    As to the broken plastic choke cable cap: Stead Engineering sells a metal replacement part.
  7. Birdmove

    Birdmove Long timer

    Joined:
    Oct 30, 2004
    Oddometer:
    1,883
    Location:
    Keaau, Hawaii
    I just resubscribed to this thread after being away from it a while. I don't have a KLR250, but had one I bought new in 2001 and rode it a lot till 2005. One came up for sale on the island and it's only got 2600 miles. I'll have to check with the owner as he doesn't say what yearb it is, but it's a red and black one, so I believe it's a latter model.
    What I'm wondering is, are parts getting hard to find for these?

    The 2001 I had blew up under warranty, as a small piece of silicone sealer from assembly broke loose and plugged the oil supply line to the top end. Got lots of new parts from that one. Then a seal went out on the water pump and it started leaking oil. Again, fixed under warranty. I actually liked that KLR250 very much. Mine was a great starting bike. After I got the preferred procedure for that bike down, it would always start first kick even if it sat for 2 months during the Pacifc Northwest winters.
  8. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,957
    Location:
    CT exile now in NH
    So far I've bought these parts for my KLR250:
    OEM
    Clutch lever
    Brake lever
    Case gaskets
    Complete carb


    Aftermarket
    Front sprocket
    Chain
    Grips
    Rear rack
    Mirrors
    Fork seals

    No issues getting any of this.
  9. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    345
    Location:
    Western Colorado
    What do you guys think of this KLR 250?

    http://cosprings.craigslist.org/mcy/3735796511.html

    I emailed him, he stated that he put in a 330cc kit with a JE piston. Are any of you familiar with that kit?

    I love my KLR 650, but am thinking of doing some more trail riding, etc. I used to commute 50 miles each way including some 75 mph Interstate, but my commute is now 1.5 miles each way. I would still like to do CO touring, but I am happy doing 55 mph on most roads, and as long as it can do the occasional 70 mph blasts I'd be fine.
  10. Dblarrow

    Dblarrow Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    169
    Location:
    Kila, montana
    I have a 250 with the Cycle Works 330 kit. Absolutely different bike. My son has a normal 250 and the 330 is so much more. Mileage is still really good also. I took my 650 and my daughter rode the 330 to Alaska and she kept up quite easily. Cruising around at 55 and the occasional 70 is not problem, maybe just put a bigger sprocket up front.
  11. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    345
    Location:
    Western Colorado
    Thanks for the info.

    Would a larger front sprocket have a significant impact on off-road ability?
  12. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,865
    Yes, IMHO, although the increased displacement must provide increased torque, perhaps adequate off-road for a higher gear.

    Reverse-engineering your query, I found switching to a 14-tooth countershaft sprocket on my stock-engined KLR250 improved things off-road, plenty.

    Yet, I can keep up with the Interstate express lane traffic, if I'm willing to flog the little beast some!
  13. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 27, 2012
    Oddometer:
    345
    Location:
    Western Colorado
    Thanks.

    Maybe I'll keep 2 sprockets handy if I get it, one for more road oriented rides, and one for off road rides.
  14. Dblarrow

    Dblarrow Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    169
    Location:
    Kila, montana
    Obvious answer is to play around and it depends on what is off road.

    I picked up a 16 tooth only to find out it already had a 16 tooth on it. I had been running up and down and through the woods already. I can imagine that with a 14 tooth you could probably crawl along pretty good. For me off road is old abandoned logging roads and cutting corners through the woods and have no problems with the 16. I am however considering the 15 just for fun.
  15. 1994klr250

    1994klr250 Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 16, 2007
    Oddometer:
    861
    Location:
    SE michigan
    Dblarrow I see you have the 330 kit on your klr250. How do you like that big bore kit? I've been thinking of going that route when my klr needs a rebuild.
  16. Dblarrow

    Dblarrow Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Aug 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    169
    Location:
    Kila, montana
    As I say in my sig line WOW! There is such a big difference between the 250 and the 330 it is like having a different bike. I have never ridden a real 350ish bike so can't compare to that, but this kit on this bike is a great upgrade.
  17. tkata

    tkata n00b

    Joined:
    Apr 14, 2013
    Oddometer:
    9
    Location:
    Athens, Greece
    Hi everybody! I'm new here and i've already read some very informative posts. I got my KLR 250 trwo weeks ago, she's a 1995 model, the barby. The general condition isn't bad at all although there is some rast on the frame. I don't know much about technical matters but i'm trying...Well, she's got 1 or 2 things i think i'd better check asap. Let me explain:

    1. The bike starts with 1-2 kicks, that's fine, but she wouldn't keep the idle. When on the road sometimes the engine stops when i pull the clutch. Also, when she gets a bit hot the idle goes up to 3.000 rpm and stays there until i pull over for some minutes.

    2. I don't think the fan works and i'm a bit worried about the cooling of my engine. I'm not sure if the water pump works as well. The heat indicator doesn't seem to work either.

    The guy that sold me the bike said he cleaned the carburator (not sure about the tunning though) and done the valves.

    There are some other minor issues but i'll check them, i think these two are the critical ones. So, according to your experience what should i do before i started visiting the dealers arround?

    Thanks a lot! Happy to be here!
  18. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    My hard starting klr Barbie is a one kicker now! After all the carb cleaning, it turns out I hadn't cleared the starter jet:( Thanks for the helpful tips guys! This forum has been a real money saver for me.
  19. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

    Joined:
    Oct 14, 2007
    Oddometer:
    3,482
    Location:
    Gainesville, Fl
    I've had the same issue. The pilot jet is so small that the teeniest speck will throw the carb out of whack.
  20. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,865
    # 1, hard to diagnose remotely; could be a thermally-expanding crack somewhere admitting excessive intake air; one of MANY possibilities.

    #2, easy to check the fan circuitry. GROUND the thermal switch lead (connects to a thermal switch located toward the bottom of the radiator); this connection should activate the fan relay and in turn the fan.

    Don't have my KLR250 wiring diagram handy; can't recall whether the KLR250 has a separate fan fuse or not; If the fan doesn't spin up when its thermal switch lead is grounded, I'd first check the fan fuse, if any. The thermal switch lead should have + 12 VDC present at all times, ignition ON or OFF.

    Your bike, but . . . I'd be more comfortable with a functioning temperature gauge; any necessary repair parts should be available from Kawasaki, or a motorcycle "dismantler" (junk yard).