KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. kbess1110

    kbess1110 n00b

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    Having the same issue with my 250 as well...ill be trying this trick tomorrow thanks!!

    sent from my VZW 4G LTE Note 2
  2. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

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    I own a 2000 KLR250. Surprisingly enough, the instrument cluster won't work without a good battery. Although the bike will run w/o the batt, I recommend against doing this long-term. The rectifier overheats without a battery to charge, and will eventually fail. Batteries are waaay cheaper than rectifiers.

    Concerning the fan circuit: With the bike running ground the fan lead which comes from the radiator temp switch. Fan should run.
  3. leakyfaucet

    leakyfaucet n00b

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    Awesome, thanks guys!
  4. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Not likely; the temperature sensor in the head is connected to the temperature gauge; the cooling fan is on a separate circuit and activated by closure of the thermal switch in the lower reaches of the radiator.

    You can test your cooling fan by temporarily shorting the thermal fan switch lead to ground, simulating switch closure.

    Here's a wiring diagram for a Generation 1 KLR650 fan circuit; same-o for KLR250 (except no separate 10-amp fan fuse):

    http://www.bigcee.com/faq/KLR-Fan-ckt-4.jpg
  5. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

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    My 94 klr only runs hot at highway speeds ( 50mph+). Any ideas on the cause of that? This is a unfamiliar bike to me. Bought it a few months ago and had a carb issue. Got that fixed, but when i took it out for the first time it ran hot.
  6. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    Get all of the air out? Its happened before on these bikes. Also, what do you call hot? Mine always seems to run on the higher end of the gauge but has never seemed to overheat

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2
  7. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

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    into the red. But, pull into a small road or trail and will cool down into the mid to high range on the temp gauge. Havent tried burping the radiator, guess ill give that a shot this weekend.
  8. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Likewise; needle has approached the red, but . . . coolant never boiled.

    Thus, WHAT? ME worry?

    Even idling in 100-degree F. weather, with the radiator properly burped, the fan cycles and the coolant stays within safe limits.
  9. rfoll

    rfoll Adventurer

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    Jun 7, 2013
    Oddometer:
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    St. Helens, OR
    I have read everything I can find on the subject of CVK 34 problems, but I have yet to see any solutions to my problem. The engine wants to race with the throttle closed. The carb is clean, I am afraid of wearing out the screws from taking it apart. The start mechanism is new from my thumb through the plastic cap at the carb body. When I had it apart last I noticed the slide was worn badly, so I just replaced it with a new one. The person before me pulled the exhaust diffuser and carved up the air box, replacing it with a spring loaded, oil soaked sponge. For those reasons, I went from a stock 112 main jet to a 115. I noticed the pilot air screw was square on the end. It does extend into the throat, but I wonder if it even belongs to this carb. The motor idles best with the pilot air screw CLOSED!!!??? The engine does not race as bad with the fast idle screw turned down, but then it will not idle regardless of pilot screw position. The bike starts and runs well, and when I last checked it got 67 MPG. The bike has about 3200 miles on it, but I suspect it was mostly off road
  10. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Long-distance diagnosis difficult, but . . . COULD BE an air leak in your plumbing, somewhere.

    Are you certain the starting enricher ("choke") plunger is fully seated, closing both its fuel orifice and air passage?

    The idle circuit, properly configured, admits the idle mixture through the pilot jet into the venturi . . . butterfly valve should be in most restrictive position, slide adjusted down with the idle adjustment screw. . . and the fuel screw should have a "pointy" end . . .

    You've read a lot; have you read this?

    http://www.gadgetjq.com/keihin_carb.htm

    About the CVK40, but applicable to the CVK34 in large measure.
  11. rfoll

    rfoll Adventurer

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    I suspected air leaks initially, but I have inspected everything, even the car adapter and it's O ring. All of the emissions stuff has been removed, so the vacuum port at the front of the port is capped. I put a new O ring under the pilot spring, and I replaced the broken starter cap and assembly thinking it might leak there. I suspected the worn slide of leaking too much air but the slot it fits in showed no signs of wear, likely a better material. The fact it idles well with the pilot turned all the way in tells me something odd is happening, but I have run out of ideas. I am going to pick up a complete parts bike tomorrow, and with any luck, the pilot needle will be intact and give me something for comparison. I am not a stranger to carburetors, I have been drag racing for over 35 years. But this isn't a Holley, and I don't have 3 functional spares on the shelf. I wonder if the removal of all of the factory systems has somehow unbalanced something. When I tried to run without the air cleaner, ( I think it's a unifilter) the engine ran so lean it wouldn't rev past 7000.
  12. DrMoto

    DrMoto Adventurer

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    Location:
    California, USA
    I put my '00 klr250 in the flea market today if anyone in the southeast is looking for one (I'm in Savannah). ~8k miles on it; I've been using it regularly for commuting over the past couple of years. It is a really great bike but I'll be moving this summer and it isn't looking too practical to try to get it to the left coast.

    Some of you would say (rightfully) that I should just ride it there! But I'll be on the big bike - my first Really Big Bike Trip.:D
  13. rfoll

    rfoll Adventurer

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    Found out the problem. I acquired another carb from a parts bike for comparison, and found that a previous owner for my bike had drilled the pilot screw hole out, maybe an additional .010: -.015". With the screw all the way in, it would protrude nearly 1/16" into the throat. That explains why it would only idle with the screw bottomed out and the throttle plate opened excessively.
  14. max384

    max384 Bandaided

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    It's been a month since I've been out on my KLR since breaking my fibula. I decided to take it out for ride on the trails today, mainly just putzing around on the easy trails, since my leg's still not at 100%. I was pleasantly surprised when she fired up after the second kick, with no choke, after sitting neglected for a month. :freaky
  15. Pork Butt

    Pork Butt Save the USA

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    the rear shock on my 05 bit the farm .... can any 650 shock be fitted or is there a better idea ???




    the first clue was when the rear wheel ate my license plate :lol3



    PB
  16. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Takes some doin', I've read, but--I think a 650 shock implant is possible.

    My rear tire eats up my license plate regularly, even with a fully-functional rear shock!

    Thus, I think, as the dealerships sometimes say, "That's NORMAL! They ALL do that!"

    I first thought mischevious vandals were bending the plate while the bike was parked in my parking lot; straightened that sucker out.

    Went on an off-road ride, and, would you belive it? Those pesky rascals FOLLOWED me, out in the boonies, and mangled the license plate again, just as they did before! :rofl

    The cure is: License plate relocation, regardless of rear shock condition, I fear.
  17. Pork Butt

    Pork Butt Save the USA

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    well there is also the oil spewing from it when I push down :lol3


    that factory shock is over $600 :huh


    ebay thus far is not very promising on a 650 shock .... I watched a vid on how to and it looks doable.


    PB
  18. dfye55

    dfye55 Been here awhile

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    The rear tire will eat the license plate when you bottom out, I think thats normal. I remounted the plate, still bottom out once on a while, but no damage to plate. I can send pic of plate mount if wanted.

    Sent from mobile
  19. Pork Butt

    Pork Butt Save the USA

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    well what I need a is a shock solution as this one is broke and all I have is the spring to ride on :cry


    I am going to try cogent dynamics since I met a couple of them at a rally maybe they have something laying around but shit this is depressing ... a beater bike and you cant get a shock for it for less than 50% of the value :eek1

    I am pulling the thing next week to see if it truly is "un-rebuild-able"


    PB
  20. trailhiker

    trailhiker Adventurer

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