KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    I know, the header needs attention. I'll get there eventually.


    [​IMG]

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  2. jules083

    jules083 Long timer

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    I see how easy it would be to reverse them. These are correct for sure thought. It's actually stamped on the water pump cover which outlet goes to the cylinder.


    [​IMG]

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  3. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

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    Thanks for all the replies. Some good tips here.
  4. Dblarrow

    Dblarrow Been here awhile

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    I have the same 330 in an 89, makes for a great bike.

    My daughter rode it to Alaska last year and we started having heating problems after about 6600 miles. Seemed to be losing water but couldn't find a leak. Eventually toasted a crank bearing. Rebuilt and replaced the bearings and have some major clicking going on inside but that is a different issue.

    I replaced the carb with one from a KLX and it has the choke on the side - so I removed the overflow bottle, cause it was in the way of the choke. What riding I have done with it I have not had any heating issues since the rebuild. I haven't ridden it in stop and go traffic yet, but running around the hills and what not no problems that have come to the surface.
  5. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

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    I emailed him and he suggested installing a KX500 radiator.

    Reading many threads on many sites (thanks, internet!) I am starting to wonder about the head gasket. Others have chased down similar issues and have wound up at the head gasket, even though there wasn't really any signs in the oil.

    I hope not, I'm not a great mechanic, and while the price of the part wouldn't be an issue, the price of labor might. Is this a pretty straight forward process, or is it pretty involved?
  6. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    I think a leaking head gasket would produce more symptoms than you've experienced, i.e., more than overheating on idle.

    The kit developer's suggestion, augment the radiator capacity by replacement with a larger one, may be worthwhile.

    Otherwise, you can baby it when forced to run at idle; e.g., rev the engine as necessary, take cool-down breaks.

    Maybe it can be done, but . . . asking a cooling system designed for 250 cc to keep a 330 cc engine within safe temperatures, "from DC to daylight," from idle to WOT, may be a too-tall order.
  7. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

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    It seems like it wouldn't be too difficult to put in the better radiators, so I'll do that regardless. But the way that the coolant keeps boiling dumping it out the overflow tank may be a sign. Either way, it does seem like a good idea to upgrade the cooling capacity.
  8. kidflyr

    kidflyr Adventurer

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    Just a thought, but if I'm remembering correctly, the 1st generation KLR650 has its radiator and fan on the left side of the bike, possibly making the addition of a 650 fan wired in parallel with the existing fan something worth exploring.
    Additionally I have heard some positive reviews of some waterproofed computer cooling fans that an eBay seller is marketing as auxiliary cooling for dirt bikes and other motorcycles. Such an option would put less amperage draw on the bike's wimpy stator, compared to the 650 fan. I don't remember the seller's screen name though :(
  9. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

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    Ok, I checked the coolant lines, they are correct.

    I also just checked the level of coolant, it's pretty low. Which I topped it off really recently. It is spitting coolant out the overflow tank once it gets to operating temperature. Not a continuous flow, but more in spurts.

    When I pulled off the radiator cap I noticed small flecks of what looks like copper. So if they used a copper head gasket when putting in the new engine, which are known to fail quickly, that might make sense. I've been looking all over the interwebs, and found a couple threads with symptoms that mirror mine where the head gasket ended up being the issue. Not a huge leak, just enough to make the cooling system malfunction.

    I can do basic stuff, but I'm nervous to get into it. I just ordered the manual, hopefully a head gasket is a job I can tackle.
  10. ChromeSux

    ChromeSux Un-plated and Unscrewed

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    Poweraddict
    Top end is pretty easy, just take your time and make notes, take photos, study the shop manual, you will be fine.

    Good luck
  11. wa_medic

    wa_medic Adventurer

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    "I have a cycleracks rack on my klr250 ... They just do not line up well with the threaded holes on the underside of the seat rail that they are suppose to bolt into ... I want it to be easier to attach, and less likely to come apart"

    Rube,

    I can't speak for the KLR250, but I have a cycleracks on my TW200 and have not had any issues with its fit. However, a few others have had some minor alignment issues (http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/897016-cyclerack-installtw200/). If you bought it new, you may want to contact them. Apparently their customer service is quite good.

    wa_medic
  12. bundy4tom

    bundy4tom Adventurer

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    Gday guys, my first post, im from australia and purchased a 94 KLR250 afew weeks ago.
    wasnt running when i purchased it, so i started tinkering.

    ive rebuilt the carby, cleaned the tank, and replaced the coil as it had no spark.
    still no luck in starting it, it is very easy to kick though, would this mean low compression and possibly be a reason for not starting?

    ive already learnt a bit about these bikes since discovering this forum.

    any light shed on this would be very helpful.

    thanks

    Tom
  13. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

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    Does it have spark now?
  14. rube

    rube Been here awhile

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    Tom,

    These bikes are very easy to kick. I have even started mine with my hand rather than with a kick one time just to see if it was possible.

    So, I have no idea if your bike has low compression but I would expect it to be very easy to kick over at normal compression.

    rube


    ...
    it is very easy to kick though, would this mean low compression and possibly be a reason for not starting?

    thanks

    Tom[/QUOTE]
  15. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Two manuals are required to service the KLR250; the KLR600 "base" manual, and the KLR250 supplement.

    A Generation 1 Clymer KLR650 manual could be used, instead of the KLR600 Kawasaki service manual, I suppose.
  16. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    I have Cycleracks on both my KLR250 and my KLR650. Funny you should mention it, but . . . I lost the identical bolt on my KLR650 this past week!

    As you mention, the bolts are M8; I found the pitch is 1.50, I think. However, the OEM bolts have a boss near the bolt head to fill the hole in the passenger footpeg plate. Since the Cyclerack mounting tab prevents full penetration of the OEM bolt into its threaded hole, the boss may not fill the hole.

    I've thought of a couple of work-arounds, e.g., drilling the Cyclerack mounting tab hole to a larger diameter (same as in the passenger footpeg plate) and replacing the OEM bolt with a longer custom fastener, but--too much fabrication work there.

    I just bought a same-length M8 X (forget the pitch, 1.50?) bolt (no boss) at the hardware store, and pinned the rack as usual, slathering blue Thread-Locker on the fastener.

    If this doesn't hold, then . . . longer M8 X (forget the pitch; 1.50?) bolt, to engage more threads, and . . . more Thread-Locker!

    Image of Cyclerack on KLR250 with saddle bags and top case, plus auxiliary fuel container (luggage moves seamlessly between KLR250 and KLR650):

    [​IMG]

    --------------------

    And . . . if you think Cyclerack fitment is difficult on a KLR250, try the Kawasaki accessory rack--that product will make you weep, and . . . it's only rated for about 5 pounds, IIRC.
  17. Powderaddict

    Powderaddict Been here awhile

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    I found one on ebay, it's electronic but has the pdf of both manuals. $13 :D

    Now just have to find some time and dig in...
  18. rube

    rube Been here awhile

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    I did end up drilling the seat rail for a bolt after losing the left side mounting bolt multiple times. I think that I must have damaged the threads in the welded in factory mounting nut on the bike due to my difficulty getting everything aligned when mounting the rack the first time (and every additional time too!).

    I used a smaller diameter bolt and drilled from the bottom side. I center punched a dimple in the center of the space where the factory bolt would go. I used a smaller bolt so that I would not damage the threads of the factory nut (any more than I already have). I believe I used a 6mm bolt, but do not have the bike in front of me right now to confirm that.

    It is holding well so far, and I can easily visually check it to see if it is loosening.

    I have not drilled the seat rail on the right side as it has not failed me yet, and in order to get the clearance to drill the hole I would have to temporarily remove the muffler.

    I did speak with the CycleRacks folks when I first had problems with fitting the rack. They were very helpful and offered to take the rack back, no questions asked. I did not send the rack back because I knew I could get it fitted. I have not seen a more sturdy rack for the bike and did not want to have to spend the time making myself one from scratch. Besides the mounting point alignment difficulties the only other thing I would change is spacing it out a little more on the right forward mounting point. As it is now the rack makes accessing the air filter difficult. Overall it is a great rack.

    rube

    [/IMG][​IMG]
  19. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    [/IMG][​IMG]


    Looks like that oughta hold it! Further, as you mention, you can inspect the fastener's condition any time.

    As I recall, I drilled through the rear underside bolt holes and tapped the entire hole length for the longer Allen-head bolts I installed.

    View from under left fender facing forward; Allen-head bolt holds Cyclerack mounting tab:

    [​IMG]

    Again, as I recall, I may have lost a bolt or two at this juncture over time; adequate torque has kept 'em at home lately. Would recommend thread-locker, for anyone performing this mod.
  20. ilmontgo

    ilmontgo n00b

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    Charlotte, NC
    Here's my bike:
    [​IMG]

    I've had about 1000 to 1500 miles of fun on it and farkled it up a bit with tires, digital tach, etc...
    It suddenly lost compression while warming up one day. Just died then no resistance on kick starter. Came back a week later and it fired up. And died, again no compression...
    Later I opened the valve cover and got really concerned when I looked at the exhaust cam:
    [​IMG]
    Notice anything missing? Yep, the KACR weights and spring:
    [​IMG]
    The PO says the KACR was intact last time he was in there (right before I bought it 1500 mi ago). I couldn't find any pieces under the valve cover. I assume they are either under the camshafts somewhere or down in the bottom end via the timing chain passage.
    So now I am finishing painting the boat in the garage to move it out and make room for tearing down my klr 250's engine to find those stupid pieces.
    [​IMG]
    Has anyone ever experienced anything like this? I figure I'll have to remove the camshafts at the very least if i'm lucky and find the pieces there. But if I have to go deeper I guess I'll do some rings, gaskets, and if bottom end, seals and whatever bearings seem worn...
    And I'm hoping to join some buddies on a 1000 mile trip in less than 4 weeks!:rofl