KLR250 thread

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Bad Company, May 10, 2008.

  1. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    744
    Location:
    Strongsville, OH
    My 250 was making nasty clacking noises from the top end. Checked and rechecked the valves...all in spec. Pulled the KACR, no change (other than the effort to kickstart). In desperation replaced the cam chain tensioner and exhaust cam.No change....Sheesh....

    Yesterday changed the exhaust cam follower; the thing that actuates the ex. valves. The face was galled and scarred, making too much clearance with the lobe of the cam. Hence the racket. Now it sounds like new !

    KLR's have notoriously weak cam-lobe hardening, and are prone to cam-face galling. I've heard the same noise in other 250's and have heard people say that a noisy top-end is typical from this bike. The lesson I learned is to always replace the follower with the cam as a matched set. It's an easy fix !
  2. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    412
    Location:
    Montana
    Help! Although I know this has been beat to death and I have read about 20 different pages on how to adjust the valves on my 1999 KLR 250, I am still having problems. I have followed the detailed directions and when it gets to the actual "adjusting" part, there are no details. It just says adjust the valves to between .008" and .009".When I have the timing mark lined up and the cam lobes are opposite of the valves, there is some play in the arm that holds the adjusters on both the intake and exhaust side. How do I adjust them when as soon as I put the feeler gauge in, the adjuster moves up slightly? There is a few thousandths play between the arm that connects the adjusters and the cam surface. :confused

    I have had the thing apart 4 times in the past week and it runs with no top end noise, but I am concerned that I don't have them adjusted correctly and don't want to ruin my engine. I want to take it out this weekend, but I'm not riding it anywhere until I figure this out!
  3. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,871
    Fear not; if you adjusted your valve clearances (as in, loosen lock-nut; adjust clearance with screw and feeler gauge; re-tighten lock-nut and re-check clearance) at piston TDC (there's a "lazy T" mark on the rotor, I think) between the compression and power strokes (NOT between the exhaust and intake strokes), DON'T WORRY ABOUT ANY SIDE-TO-SIDE PLAY IN THE ROCKERS.

    KLR250's remain rather low-maintenance machines.

    As to farkling the KLR250; just installed Progressive fork springs; improved off-road performance . . . and my Eagle Mike 1.5" handlebar risers improve standing ergonomics, for me . . .
  4. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    412
    Location:
    Montana
    Sweet! I appreciate the assistance! I agree, mine has taken more abuse than most. Of 6300 miles, over 4000 miles are off-road single track and glacial silt. It has been completely submerged in a river 1/4 mile from a glacier (Brrrr!) in Alaska, ridden in 100 F+ heat in both Hawaii and Virginia, over the Going to the Sun Hwy and all the dirt roads we could find at Glacier NP, logging roads in WA and OR, and now gets thrashed regularly on NorCal twisty roads. The wife and I are getting ready to do a two week DS trip to Utah in September :clap, so I am trying to make sure this thing is ready to go!
  5. Half-a-Jeep

    Half-a-Jeep Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    44
    Location:
    L'ville
    Hello all, about 2 weeks ago I got my first motorcycle ever: a 1999 KLR250 (the blue-green year) with only 1,300 miles. I've been riding it around town and the surrounding countryside, and I have a great newbie question for all you other KLR Jr. owners: How can you tell if the noise, rattle, buzzing, shaking, etc is normal or should be looked into? The roads around here are far from perfect, so I can't tell if that slight chugging feeling is frost-heave or a fuel problem, or if that loss of power is a slight upgrade or something worse. Am I supposed to hear the chain rubbing on those plastic pieces around the swing arm and kickstand? (I adjusted it to within spec, and it still rubs.) Is it shaking more violently at 6+ rpm because of harmonics or is something bad about to happen? Basically, without the aid of idiot lights or experience, how am I supposed to know if something is about to go wrong?
  6. Pigford

    Pigford British

    Joined:
    Sep 27, 2009
    Oddometer:
    1,023
    Location:
    North Dorset, UK
    Get a "seasoned" biker to check it out for you - or your local (recommended) bike shop :evil
  7. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    744
    Location:
    Strongsville, OH
    My klr (lower case for 250) has begun leaking gas out of the carb bowl drain hose. WTF??? If I shut off the petcock and drain the float bowl, it doesn't leak. (Hence, not the petcock leaking). If the carb float was leaking I suspect gas would flow out of the carb into the airbox; the carb bowl drain is simply there to drain the float bowl, right ? I open the allen screw bowl-drain valve and fuel flows out till the bowl is empty, then quits: another indication the carb float valve is sealing properly.

    I've never heard of the shut-off screw leaking. It's dirt simple (right ?)

    Anyone crossed this bridge before and can bring me up-to-speed ?
  8. Half-a-Jeep

    Half-a-Jeep Adventurer

    Joined:
    Aug 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    44
    Location:
    L'ville
    Short answer: yep, that's what it does when it overflows.

    Some carbs have a small aluminum overflow tube inside the bowl. The overflow tube sticks straight up from near the drain screw and tucks between the jets when it's assembled. If the bowl overfills, fuel bypasses the drain screw and goes straight out the drain. Mine cracked at the base when I removed the bowl (it is really thin aluminum and isn't braced or supported anywhere) so it was leaking out the drain as if I had not tightened the screw.

    This site has a picture of what I'm talking about (he didn't have an overflow, so he made one from copper):
    http://web.ncf.ca/ag136/floatDrainTubes.htm

    My guess: something is wrong with the floats or the float valve, causing it to overflow, or you cracked it the last time you disassembled the carb, like I did.
  9. tankster64

    tankster64 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Nov 1, 2009
    Oddometer:
    24
    Location:
    Jackson, TN
    just had same problem in a little CRF 100. Float valve was stuck. Causing bowl to fill and gas to run into top of overflow tube and out the drain line.
    Never been inside the carb on my klr. But the bowl on the CRF looks just like the one in the picture from link above
  10. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,871
    Uh, "wrong," I think.

    The non-vacuum-operated, gravity-feed petcock KLR250 scheme (unlike the vacuum-operated petcock scenario on a KLR650) with its CVK34 carburetor, uses a dump tube for both float bowl draining AND fuel overflow, IMHO.

    Improper float valve and/or float valve seat seal results in fuel puking out the dump tube.

    Chances are, trash in float bowl compromises float valve seal. Long shot: punctured float.

    Suggestion: Drop float bowl, clean float valve and float valve seat. Valve should be pointy, but pliable. Make sure float holds air; float height can be checked without carb disassembly with a length of transparent hose (connect to dump tube spigot, bend into "U" shape, open drain screw and observe meniscus; should be about the level of the carb body/float bowl interface).
  11. Outwardbound

    Outwardbound Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jan 17, 2005
    Oddometer:
    744
    Location:
    Strongsville, OH
    OK thanks. I'm on it.
  12. Just GO!

    Just GO! Countersteer it.

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,867
    Location:
    SE Ohio
    My 250 used to never leak gas. I could leave the petcock on indefinately and it would not leak.

    Now, however, it leaks from the float bowl drain tube if I leave the petcock on. I'm forgetful and I hate to waste gasoline. :bluduh

    After reading the last few posts concerning this issue I have deduced that...

    No. 1..... I should remove the float bowl and check/clean the valve and valve seats.

    No. 2..... Check/adjust the float height. :thumb



    If everything is OK I should be able to leave the petcock "on" and have no leaking problems.....correct?
  13. Just GO!

    Just GO! Countersteer it.

    Joined:
    Sep 6, 2007
    Oddometer:
    2,867
    Location:
    SE Ohio
    It was the float valve...............nevermind...:lol3
  14. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    412
    Location:
    Montana
    Okay, back to the valve adjustment again. 1999 KLR 250, about 7k miles on it, I bought it brand new and has been very well cared for. I have tried to adjust the valves about 10 times now and can't get it right. There is a bunch of play in the rockers at TDC. I'm not talking about side to side play, I'm talking about up and down a considerable amount. Looking at the bearing surfaces of the rockers and the cams, all look just fine, no abnormal wear and look brand new. Also, when I do adjust them and think they are set correctly (between .008 and .009 thousandths), then cycle the motor through a couple of revolutions and back to TDC, they are out of adjustment again. I have tried to adjust them statically, pushed all the way up, and pressed all the way down, none of these work. What the hell am I doing wrong? I have adjusted valves on my other bikes no problem, but this one is pissing me off! I am about ready to light it on fire and push it off a cliff! Help please!!!
  15. plodalong

    plodalong Now if we just.....

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    703
    Location:
    griffith NSW
    Hi folks, Looking at buying a 2000 klr250 with 37000 klm (23000miles) on it. looks like its had a sheltered life as she's pretty origional. Not knowing any thing about them, is there anything to look for in this model (known problems ect) and what sort of miles can one expect before major engine work is nessecary. I know this depends on how it was ridden, some noobs could kill any bike in 2000miles but assuming well maintained and not abused.

    Thanks in advance.

    Bruce
  16. 8gv

    8gv Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 22, 2009
    Oddometer:
    2,959
    Location:
    CT exile now in NH
    I have done my valve adjustment twice with no issues. Following the directions that I pulled off the KLR 250 web site, I almost messed up this time. You have to rotate the flywheel counterclockwise about 1/3 of a turn after you see the intake valves open and close. At that point you'll see the timing mark in the hole above the flywheel. What I did wrong was to turn it clockwise and nothing made sense.
  17. 3DChief

    3DChief "Moto therapist"

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    412
    Location:
    Montana
    8GV,

    Yep, found out that was my problem too! :baldy Let it sit for a few days and went back to try again, starting from the beginning and reading each step. Set them no problem first try! Obviously, clockwise does something to the valves that doesn't allow them to be set, lesson learned and that part is highlighted in the instructions now!

    Tim
  18. Brash1

    Brash1 Adventurer/Goof-off

    Joined:
    Oct 31, 2009
    Oddometer:
    52
    Location:
    Bagley, Alabama
    Is there a aftermarket (larger) tank for a 1988 klr 250? would love to get more mileage between fill-ups. Read somewhere someone had mounted a 650 designed tank on one.
  19. Drizzt

    Drizzt Ranger

    Joined:
    Jan 26, 2008
    Oddometer:
    1,038
    Location:
    Tucson AZ
    I'm part of the klr group now, I just bought a kinda rough used one for 500 dollars. According to the stock gauge the bike has 12k miles, but from the looks of it 90 percent offroad.

    The tank is a white aftermarket oversized, I'll check out the name on it tomorrow while I work on it more.

    I just had a quick question- is the front brake on these easy to operate? Right now it is REALLY hard to pull the lever and get it to stop. I'm going to bleed the brakes and see if that helps.. I"ll also check out the condition of the pads. I bought the bike for my girlfriend, and right now it's just unsafe how difficult it is to stop. Thanks for any advice!
  20. richmo1

    richmo1 Just a rider

    Joined:
    May 4, 2009
    Oddometer:
    131
    Location:
    Tucson, AZ
    Drizzt,
    The front brake on my GF's KLR250 is not hard to pull in at all, but it does NOT have good stopping power. I bled the brakes and checked out the shoes (they looked fine). The front forks also dive pretty seriously when squeezing hard.
    richmo1