KLR650 Engine Noise?...now with video!

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by newcastleadam, Aug 7, 2010.

  1. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    I picked up this 2001 KLR650 with 29400 miles locally, PO said it had a diagnosis of an engine bearing needing replacement (earlier thread here). Got it running the other day and now want to address the engine bearing question. The engine is noisy, but this is my first KLR so I'm not sure what's good noise and what's bad noise. So....youtube video time!

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24n-MDVmxpM

    What I've done:
    -changed oil
    -changed coolant
    -checked oil screen (clean)
    -changed brake fluid
    -replaced front brake piston seals
    -replaced bulldog'ed oil drain plug with cool low profile magnet plug
    -peeled off rhinoliner from plastic body panels
    -left rhinotank in place ;-}
    -cleaned carb with bucket of gunk (twice)
    -replaced petcock diaphragm (p/n 43028-1033)
    -upgraded subframe bolts
    -checked valve clearances, all in the middle of spec
    -changed front and rear tires

    Not sure if the above info will help, but rather have too much than the reverse. Took it by my neighbor who has more engine experience than I and he said it sounds like a metal on metal noise that may be a spun bearing.

    I understood a bearing might need a replacement when I got it, and it was factored into the price. At this point I'm trying to confirm that diagnosis and figure out a plan of attack.

    My thoughts are:

    1. Drop entire bike off at my local mechanic
    2. Take engine out and have local mechanic/other pull bearing(s)
    3. I attempt to pull the bearing(s)

    I'm reasonably confident in my ability to take the engine apart, determine that it's too big a job and then go with option #2. Since the case would be cracked it would be a perfect time to throw a hop up kit in there (685, 705, whatever), but I'm leaning towards getting it running and then playing with it.

    Anyway, your feedback is appreciated.

    Thanks!
    #1
  2. Huzband

    Huzband Team Dirt

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    That sounds bad. Based on what I heard, I wouldn't run it until it was pulled apart & fixed.

    Whether or not you do it yourself is up to you, but I highly recommend it. Having someone else do it would easily exceed any return value on the bike. I'd also hold off on a top end kit till the bottom is squared away.
    #2
  3. Kjharn

    Kjharn Hrmph?

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    My KLR sure never sounded like that :eek1
    #3
  4. Pigford

    Pigford British

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    Check cam chain tension & doohicky :huh

    Does it still make same noise with clutch in/out ???

    Any smoke????
    #4
  5. Chicken Helmet

    Chicken Helmet I'm A Stumperâ„¢

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    And Danny knows these as well as anybody locally.:freaky
    #5
  6. DirtyDog

    DirtyDog Omnia mea mecum porto

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    I can't really tell from the video. Sorry.

    Try to isolate the location of the noise by focusing your hearing somehow. Put in one earplug and use a paper towel roll or something on the other ear and maybe it will help you locate the actual source. Just an idea. Never tried it.

    Otherwise, you'll be disassembling blindly.
    #6
  7. tofire409

    tofire409 Geared up and ready.

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    The 685 or 705 would make sense if you are getting the piston exposed.

    As for the bearing, crack the cases your self, as you spin the "fly wheel" to TDC listen for noise. How was the tension on the cam chain and guide chain? Was there room for the doo to take up slack?

    I don't know about the shops around you, but it could be fairly expensive to have them repair it.

    Good luck, I hope it's easy for you.
    #7
  8. Avi8tor

    Avi8tor ADV Poser

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    This was my thought. I've heard one carry on like that with a broken doohickey. Pretty easy to check if you haven't done it yet. Might start there.
    #8
  9. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Thanks for the feedback. Here's the game plan for the morrow.

    1. Check doohickey
    2. Drain oil, check for metal
    3. Check under clutch cover (believe may be able to eyeball some bearings; easier than other side)
    4. Start disassembly
    #9
  10. guns_equal_freedom

    guns_equal_freedom Long timer

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    Spun bearing? KLR? :lol3

    Have you looked at the engine diagram of a KLR650?
    I suggest that you look at Bike Bandit and their parts breakdown.

    Did you get any metal out of the engine, oil or filter?
    Shavings, chunks, bits?

    Shadetree mechanic tip -

    Take a long screwdriver and put the tip on the cylinder head cover, then put your ear to the handle (you'll need a long screwdriver).

    More than likely you will be able to isolate the noise to a specific area of the engine.

    I would be doing one of four things - Looking at rebuilding the engine, looking for a good used engine, finding a KLR that's in better shape and using your current KLR as a parts bike and finally I would hold the throttle WFO until whatever is making that noise lets go.
    #10
  11. leonphelps

    leonphelps TAT/Prudhoe Bay

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    My advise: NEVER START THE ENGINE AGAIN until its fixed. That sound is more stuff getting screwed up with each revolution of the piston/crank/whatever else.

    bite the bullet and pull the engine and take it apart. Its got almost 30K on the engine. Its time take it all apart to give it a once over.

    Use it as a learning experience and do it yourself. There is a TON of knowledge on here and people with help you if you have any questions.
    #11
  12. john0270

    john0270 Blood soaked RIDER

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    #1 thing not to do is to take it to a mechanic in pieces. At least let him hear it run first before pulling it out of the frame, It might be something he can fix in the frame.

    The k&n air filter sticker is a bad bad sign if its actually been driven off road.

    At least turn the engine over by hand(counter clockwise on the rotor bolt) and just listen or feel for something.
    #12
  13. Gypsysteel

    Gypsysteel Adventurer

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    I piece of old water hose with a stick shoved in it works too, my grandfather taught me that one :wink:
    #13
  14. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    My first attempt at making a doohickey wrench failed. While I wait for the heat to die down, let me answer a few questions.

    1. Any metal out of the engine? Just drained the oil after running it for 4 miles; no metal on magnetic drain plug nor after running a magnet through the drained oil. Have not checked oil screen. Oil screen after initial oil drain was fairly clean; no significant metal.

    2. No exhaust smoke.

    3. Same noise with clutch in/out

    4. Have not visually checked doohickey yet, need to reweld wrench.

    There seems to be two camps: a) take engine out and repair and b)swap with good engine, parts bike it, etc. I've looked around on eBay and there are several complete bottom ends available from 06 and 07 models from $160-$280 delivered. Further details would be required but that option is interesting (new cases with good bearings versus swapping bearings in old cases). As I stated in the OP, I got it for a great price with the understanding that it would require some $$ to fix. So kinda on track ;-}

    Again, thanks for the feedback.
    #14
  15. CA Stu

    CA Stu Thanks Super Moderator

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    What is up with head pipe?

    Do you have a huge exhaust leak?
    #15
  16. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    AFAIK or can tell, nothing is up with it. Also no on the exhaust leak. Did you see something in the video?
    #16
  17. CA Stu

    CA Stu Thanks Super Moderator

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    Just a glimpse of the missing heat shield on the head pipe... I haven't run a stock head pipe for a long time.

    Did you check the KACR to make sure the return spring was intact?

    Edit: watched it again. take off the valve cover and inspect KACR, inspect underside of valve cover for damage. That's my best guess.
    #17
  18. CA Stu

    CA Stu Thanks Super Moderator

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    This is incorrect.
    #18
  19. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    Didn't notice anything when I was adjusting the valves, but I wasn't looking for this. It is p/n 92081 in the below diagram?

    [​IMG]

    This is on the list for the morrow. I assume that if this is the culprit it will pop out on visual inspection?

    Thanks!
    #19
  20. CA Stu

    CA Stu Thanks Super Moderator

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    Correct.

    If the spring is absent or broken, it will be obvious.
    It's on the end of the exhaust cam.
    There will be marks on the underside of the valve cover, you'll see how it works when you have the cover off...

    Rotsa ruck!
    #20