KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    Does your KLR not go very fast or something?
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  2. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

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  3. EnduroRdr

    EnduroRdr Woods Racer & D/S Rider

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    What? Keep my klr under 124mph?
    Well ok I'll try if that's the rule!


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
  4. Keating

    Keating Been here awhile

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    Hmmm... interesting.
    Richening up the hot idle mixture doesn't seem to add up for a slow/weak/lazy cold start. That's what the enricher is supposed to be for.
    Did you already have the enricher fully open (before and after)? Maybe the idle mixture was just enough more fuel, in addition to max enricher, for cold weather or something?
  5. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

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    I've had a bunch of different KLRs, and noticed that the Gen 2 was always slow to light off compared to the other Gen 1 bikes I've had. I always use choke/enrichener starting cold. I've noticed that when you adjust low speed richer, they tend to start up quicker - adjusted too lean, the choke of course helps, but not as much as it should (what I'm seeing). I re-jetted the carb (on my Gen 2) richer over the winter (main jet & switched to DynoJet needle), and adjusted low speed richer too - it helped, starts up quicker... seen that on a few bikes. Bear in mind I'm talking big bore with intake and exhaust mods.

    Getting back to electrical and ignition system issues, bad connections (dirty and/or corroded contacts) result in higher resistance/less voltage available to components in the circuit (can cause problems). I'm lucky that I've got a bunch of critical spare parts (extra coil and ignition modules Gen 1 & 2) which greatly helps with troubleshooting. Always interesting this remote diagnosing & troubleshooting that occurs in this thread - IMO it's very helpful when people report back what fixed the issue (builds the knowledge base).
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  6. jowannab

    jowannab Been here awhile

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    Hate to interrupt.. but im in the market for a engine gaurd Gen 2 650... any suggestions....THX
  7. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    The Gen 2 ignitions also won't produce spark under 300 rpm. The Gen 1's self generating ignition can light off at any rpm. May explain why the Gen 2 needs to wheel over a few times before signs of life?
  8. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Don't see how rpm affects Generation 2 ignition spark; ignition coil primary windings are saturated by 12 VDC battery voltage; breaking the saturation current circuit at any rpm ought to generate a spark from the collapsing electromagnetic field, seems to me.

    Now, Generation 2 with dead battery? Another situation; don't know what rpm the alternator requires to produce adequate power to saturate the ignition coil . . .

    A postulation (entirely) why Generation 2s may be more reluctant to start than Generation 1s: Generation 2s require battery voltage to power ignition coil; battery voltage available is compromised by starter motor engagement, leaving fewer electrons/holes for ignition duty when starter motor is active . . .

    (Hey; I SAID the theory is pure speculation! :lol2)
  9. thechief86

    thechief86 Been here awhile

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    Masked and painted my crusty headpipe today. I think it's an improvement.
    VHT flat black flame proof header paint. If it lasts all summer I'll be happy. 20170420_141709.jpg
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  10. tac650

    tac650 Nomad

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    Nice job I need to do the same. I pulled the heat shield a few days a go and gave it a touch with the wire brush and VHT spray but now the pipe looks even worse.
  11. shinyribs

    shinyribs doesn't care

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    You're right. I remembered about the 300rpm thing, but that would be a non-issue with a healthy battery. Thanks for clearing that up.

    Edit: I think ( pretty sure) I just confused the KLR ignition with the CDI on my XR 400. Low rpm ignition cut out for the reasons listed in the post below. Oops.
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  12. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

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    The cdi won't send the spark till it reads a certain rpm off the pulse gen , been done like that since back in the days of kicker bikes . They don't send a spark till 1000 rpm or a bit more , this prevents a spark from igniting anything while the kicker is just being used to find TDC , this can and has caused broken feet , ankles, or legs from the kickback . Even with electric starters it needs to see a certain rpm to stop the kickback until rotational momentum can absorb it rather than the starter assembly , but the rpm threshold is much less. In theory .

    .
  13. GreatWhiteNorth

    GreatWhiteNorth Long timer

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    That's some interesting discussion. It is quite possible that Gen 1 puts out a stronger spark on start-up. You've gotta have proper mixture tho, and the farther away from ideal air/fuel ratio, the more reluctant to ignite. My experience is that a slightly rich engine is a happy one. I remember we had this discussion waay back in the thread, about how the engine itself will tolerate a wide range of main jets, from 142 up to 148... richer for big bore with intake & exhaust mods of course. My stock '94 had a 142 main jet in it as purchased, had crazy good fuel economy, but soft on power (had high mileage).
  14. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Good points, jjxtrider! While 1000 rpm (approaching idle speed) sounds somewhat high to me for kickstart generation, the concept of minimum rotational velocity to reduce/eliminate kickback sounds both practical and plausible. That modern engines electronically employ minimum rpm starting rotational velocities sounds feasible. Generation 2s have no CDIs, however . . . an intrepid KLRista on another forum installed a full-up kickstart kit on his Generation 2, but was unable to kick it off 'til he installed a complete Generation 1 ignition (CDI) suite . . . Generation 2 igniter electronics may demand a faster rotation than he could achieve with his leg . . . kickstarting's now no problem with the earlier vintage ignition.
  15. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Looks good.

    I painted mine a few times. Each time it looked good for weeks. What looked like rust was really clay splashed up onto the hot header and baked on before I got home. The only way I could get it off was wire brush, which required painting again.

    I switched to a stainless header and it's been MUCH better. (FMF Power Bomb header in my case although I think the "Power Bomb" swelling is snake oil.)
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  16. jjxtrider

    jjxtrider questionable

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    I'm fairly sure my Yamaha XT's have a 1000rpm threshold , maybe it's 800 ? I forget all the exact details these days, without some sort of prevention they'd kickback worse than they already do , took me a couple months to walk without pain when one of mine had a faulty cdi and it fired when I was just pushing it down to find TDC ,lifted me right off the bike and actually cracked the motors case.

    ECU, CDI , TCI , ect.. I tend to use cdi as sort of a blanket designation for ignition brain box, control box ,ect.. even though they're different . All bikes have one of those which can control spark under a certain threshold.

    .
  17. jmtaylor138

    jmtaylor138 Adventurer

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    anyone know of a cheap led brake light bulb for a gen1? im finding a lot of single filiment bulbs on amazon, but having trouble finding dual. thanks!
  18. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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  19. dualscotty

    dualscotty premix

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    Hey guys got some time in on my new to me 08 klr. Love this bike perfect fit for me. Verry impressive on the black top here in New Hampshire I do not have a manual yet. I know I am going to open up a big can of worms here. But I'll ask any way. Oil recomindations. And. Capacity. Thanks
  20. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    Owner's Manual: Downloadable from the Kawasaki website, if I'm not mistaken.

    Follow the API Service Code and temperature viscosity recommendations, and . . . fear not. Just . . . don't let the oil level get LOW!