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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Update, swapped headlight with a Sylvania Silverstar. MUCH better improvement over the stock bulb. Can comfortably drive with low beam on now!
Glad you found improvement in your lighting!
Not trying to one-up your modification, just pointing out another approach to Generation 1 lighting, this bulb:
Draws 80 watts on low beam, 60 watts on high; low beam projects a "box" of light, creating a lighted rectangle where the beam strikes the riding surface; "day and night" difference compared with OEM lighting.
Bulb can be inserted, "plug-and-play," but much better with a dual relay harness; brighter, and spares the handlebar switchgear the full filament current.
I will eventually be doing away with the Halogen bulbs and the stock harness, but for now this will work fine.
What a fabulous bike to modify and personalize....
Currently I have deleted emissions equipment, added a pair of Rigid Industries Dually LED lamps for high beam, and installed the Sylvania Silverstar headlamp, then wired up a relay to it. And I'm just barely scratching the surface of what I'm going to do. Will probably invest in some more relays to wire up the lights so the low beam stays on with the high beam, which will also remove all current from any of the bikes electrical system. Couldn't believe how puny the stock headlamp wiring is..
Threw out all my Sylvania bulbs! Read their packaging claims and small print carefully. If I recall from a year or two back, a claim of 30% 'more' light against a used regular bulb at 85% of its light output ! Life, 1/3 of stock, all at a premium price! All bulbs loose light output as they age. Since changing bulbs back to stock I have not had to change burned out bulbs.
2 years ago I went HID on low beam and it draws only 35W. That was a real improvement.
I read the packaging, this is only temporary! I figured by the time this bulb has long died, I will have switched to HID. Really it only takes a 20 minute trip to one of the local HID suppliers and about $15 to get the bulb (already have a 35w ballast).
Good Idea, I'll try get in touch with the previous owner to find out. He did upgrade on the front end, Wilbers i think,
so maybe he fiddled with the clutch as well
Shot for the brainwave !
One line is the evaporative return line and the other is the vent line. I don't remember which is which. When I de-smogged my 2000, I just put both of them straight down toward the ground, but I never had any fuel leak out of either line. You may have a clogged tank vent, which is causing your trouble. I've read of it being semi common on the stock KLR tank. The cap/vent assembly is very easy to remove, take apart, and clean.
Personally, I would not start with a carb rebuild. I'd start with the easier and more common problems, like the tank vent and the petcock. When my petcock failed I thought for all of the world it was electrical because of the symptoms before it died, but it wasn't. I did the Hurricane mod and it worked perfectly after that.
Just purchased a 1999 KLR 650 for my dad. Friend of mine told me i needed to check a "thing a ma jig" that goes bad from the factory before proceeding with putting any real miles on it. It has 15K right now looks brand new. Can anyone tell me what he is talking about. He said has something to do with the clutch side. Any help is always appreciated.
Doohickey is the term. www.eaglemike.com is the place for an upgrade.
dohickey balance chain tensioner
Recently removed my fuel tank for a thermo-bob installation.... Once I was reassembling the bike i encountered difficulty getting the vaccum hose put back on the petcock. I do have SW-motech bars installed so this sort of gets in the way....
My question, anyone have tricks to getting this small tube back on? Did you get a new tube and lengthen it?
Hey Kawidad, well I already started the carb, and found that the petcock wouldn't shut off soi will order up the rebuild for that... I will certainly pull out the cap/vent assembly.
Thanks for that handy bit of info
I use curved jaw needle nose pliers. Be easy on the line. The wire hose clamp gives me a problem, not the line.
It's not too bad. Good luck.
Hey Guys, I did just did interstate trip on my 2006 KLR to my parents house 180 miles each way on flat straight I-10 and I hot reserve at 155 miles on the way there and on the way back. I went 70-75 mph with panniers with less than 30-40 lbs of stuff. It seems like I should be able to do this drive on one tank. At each fill up I traveled about 155 miles and put 4.8 gallons in = 32 MPG.
What should I check or tweak? I have no real mods other than the doohickey, tall windshield, and side cases (mermite cans).
Thanks for any advice or tips
I have a KLR650, a Vstrom 1k, and until about 2 months ago a BMW R1200GS Adventure. I have ridden to Alaska, West coast, Mexico, and this year to Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. I love my KLR, but fully loaded with gear to camp for several days the KLR is not the right tool to ride 77 mph for a 700 + mile day. BTW mine is about as trick as you can make one. I have upgraded suspension, a motor built by a Pro motor builder, a larger then stock tank and nearly all the tricks you can put on one. I rode the Cont Divide trail Solo, and all over Colorado on it for a week.
The KLR650 is not a great highway bike, dont care who you are or how flat it is where you ride. Another BTW, hopefully in 5-6 years when the last Son gets out of college I plan to ride round the world and it likely will be on a KLR. A great bike but not a great highway bike. Mine has just shy of 50k miles on it too...
Now what makes you think it is capable of a reall 77mph on the highway for an all day ride???
Wow:huh ya that's pretty low gas mileage...
Well some things that come to mind to ask:
1) what's the gearing of the bike? Associated, what rpm is the motor at when riding 75 mph?
2) what's the condition of/ mileage on the spark plug? Dirty/worn =poor spark
3) what's the condition of the air filter?... Struggling for air?
4) what kind of tires are you running?...knobbies/street?
5) does the motor seem like its running smooth/powerful or struggling....maybe electrical/coil issues?
6) anybody ever modify the carb at all?
7) are you steady, smooth, with acceleration and freeway riding?
I have an old 1993, aftermarket pipe, stock carb/filter/gearing... I get aprox. 60 mpg unloaded and aprox. 50 mpg fully loaded with gear, knobbie tires(D606s)....
A lot to look into and I am sure others will chime in with other suggestions...
Good luck! You'll figure it out!
Tall windshield and mermites equal a lot of wind resistance. But still, I get that kinda mileage but I have a 14 , ride like an idiot WFO , run knobbly tires, and I have a pipe and carb and jetting mods.
Somebody has been in your carb without your knowledge. Sounds like typical results from a DynoJet kit installation. Time to pull the carb and record/document what you have for jets/needle etc.
Worst I have ever got (with panniers etc) was 32 - into a 50-60mph head- wind in northen MT. Best, 58mpg with a tail wind up through AL. Usual is about 46. At one time I tried all the jets and needles and all it did was use more gas. Returned the bike to stock a few years ago..