Separate names with a comma.
Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Thanks... Seems the answer to my question is... Not much
I've run Primary Drive, Sunstar, JT, and PBI on the front.
Sunstar lasts the longest by a good margin.
Next comes JT and Primary Drive. Primary Drive is significantly cheaper but often goes out of stock right about the time I need to order JT is good quality but not much cheaper than Sunstar so I only buy them if I can't find Primary Drive or Sunstar in stock in the size I want.
PBI is Soft, noticeably softer than the other 3. A 16T I'm running right now showed visible hooking after 6k miles. I doubt it'll last much over 10k miles. A 14T Sunstar I've been using with the same chain after 5k it still looks new. The 14T is my offroad sprocket so it sees much tougher conditions than the 16T I only use for pavement/gravel road riding.
Im currently installing a EM Drill thru subframe bolt upgrade because I dont have a choice in the matter. I wrecked on some ice last week and my sw motec bars took the brunt but in the process busted the bolt right off the frame leaving it stuck in there tighter then hell. Currenting drilling thru (about 2 hours along and im roughly 6/10 of the way there) and I'm wondering who in their right mind would do this mod with no reason!!! Its hard as hell to cut thru that metal and Im using a well lubed bit pulling out and cleaning it every few mm. Hopefully when I get home from work I can knock it out rather quickly and slap the bike back together. Im hoping HARD that I havnt screwed up and drilled untrue.
ANYWAY now that I'm doing this Im wondering if anybody have any Doohickey tools lying around that they would part with. Figured Id just knock everything out while I'm at it. I'd pass them on when I'm done with them as they pretty much are once use tools from what I understand.
If anyone's curious on how to wire their KLR with a couple relays for the headlight(s), and is the DIY kind of person, here you go:
-RED goes to your battery- make sure you use at least a 15 amp fuse inbetween the battery and the relay.
-BLACK is your ground.
-YELLOW goes to the factory high beam lead. The low beam lead will not be used.
-GREEN goes to the city lights plug. In America, this lead is just tucked inside of your headlamp fairing, it should be a brown wire with a white stripe. If you wish, you can install a switch inbetween the City Light lead and the relay to turn the headlamp off to conserve power. If you are in a country that uses the City Light, then you will need to splice into the lead- the power consumption is very low (0.1 amps about).
-ORANGE goes to your headlamp for LOW BEAM. When you turn your bike on, this relay will flick on and remain on.
-BLUE goes to your high beam, or your auxiliary lights. These will flick on independently of the low beam, keeping that close in beam spread for cornering while giving you that distance spread of the high beam.
Total cost for me was about $11 in parts. This particular diagram will allow the low beam to remain on when you flick the high beams on. I don't recommend using the stock H4 style bulb with this- both filaments being on at the same time could cause the bulb to burn out, leaving you with no light. Since I use a pair of Rigid Industries Dually LED's for high beams, I don't have issue.
Sofar the bike has been handling the current flow just fine.
Originally Posted by DirtyDog
Any chance the clutch was upgraded to a "heavy duty" or offroad aftermarket one? From my experience (and I've read it on here before), the aftermarket clutch springs are WAY too stiff. I had to go back to the OEM ones with the aftermarket plates and discs. I had the same symptoms. Super stiff clutch and it actually bent the little arm on the case.
Good Idea, I'll try get in touch with the previous owner to find out. He did upgrade on the front end, Wilbers i think,
so maybe he fiddled with the clutch aswell
Shot for the brainwave ![/QUOTE]
All clutch components are stock !! a mod was done on lever, to cure excessive clutch travel.
I've ordered in new bits in the meantime, somehow i get the feeling ill be sitting with excessive travel soon
I did the drill through earlier this year, dam hard to drill straight and true that's for sure. Mine was not quite true but I was able to tap the bolt through and everything has seemed fine since. I plan to tear the bike down this winter for some maintenance and possibly some upgrades I will check it then. Make sure to upgrade the bolts on the lower braces as well while you are at it.
Yeah I screwed up royal and drilled down and to the front busting threw the plug for about a inch before I noticed I was way off. Was able to wallow it back true though via the other side but now there is a hole in the plug in the center. Everything is back up and installed and it feels stronger then hell but I just feel bad that I manged to screw up that bad.
Now to finish poping the dent out of my gas tank (from the PO) and painting it red to match the plasic. Hoping to get it all sanded and preped today. Siphon the gas out, sand with 150 wet then 1000 then hit it with cleaner. Hoping it isnt as time consuming as it sounds.
I'm not a professional painter but I have painted for many years. As always you should refer to the Materials Data Sheet available for you paint product but in all the years painting with many types of paint no manufacturer will suggest going from a 150 grit to 1000 grit. Two issues....you'd spend way way way too much time trying to remove 150 grit scratches using 1000 grit and no paint will properly adhere to a surface properly sanded to 1000 grit. Most manufactures do not want anything finer than 400grit for best adhesion and final look. Always use the least amount of grit paper to do the job then use each and every grit subsequent till you arrive at the recommended sanded substrate. Example: If the job/fix requires 100 grit then sand with 150, 220, 280 then 320. If you can get away with starting with 220 then you only have to use 280 then 320.
1000 grit is used as a step in the final polish of the clear coat. I generally start with 1500 then 2000 then 2500 before breaking out my machine polisher which also goes through a number of compounds before final buff.
Paint job outcome is directly proportional to the time spent prepping. You can teach a monkey to paint but takes time/experience to prep for a nice outcome.
Still, something is causing the difficulty squeezing the lever. I too have the 2HE clutch arm mod. (2-Headlight Ernie is an inmate here. You might contact him about the breakage.)
Have you taken the clutch cover off yet to take a peek?
Or even just pulled the clutch arm out of the case? I've seen pictures of one that someone tore up, ended up just being the arm needed to be replaced.
Fantastic, thanks man. Im a complete noob when it comes to painting and I was just going off of what I was told by another newbie. Thanks again!
I took the cover off had a look, the flat section on the end of the clutch rod was lying in the sump
the clutch arm/actuater (that connects to the cable) is chewed up
2 of the stalks (that the springs bolt onto) in the clutch hub are cracked at the base
It almost seems as if the clutch arm was turning two far and broke the clutch rod,
my new bits will arrive on Tuesday, hopefully everything will come right
I want to ride my bike !!!!!!!
So for a total idiot when it comes to motorcycle tires, what do you guys suggest as an AT style tire that handles well in damp weather conditions as well?
Opinions on replacing the stock spark plug??
Are the upgraded type (Irridium, E3, Split Fire) worth the money for a stock 09 KLR?
I am tearing into the bike this weekend to complete a few projects and will have the tank off.
So I figured this would be the time to replace it for good of service.
Just ordered a bunch of stuff for the klr last weekend and have been receiving it. Go happy trails nerf kit/highway peg/ bash plate for one of the bikes. Got a new Brake lever for the other KLR, and took the battery back to cycle gear to warranty it. The battery only lasted 2 months. Also got a bigger windscreen for me. And a carb vent for the other bike. And luggage for the other bike.
I have used the Irridium exclusively from day one. Yes, it gives 3 more HP, cleans the pipe out and lasts forever!
Actually, I have used it exclusively fr 45K miles - change it out at 15K. Buy it at your local auto parts store- much cheaper that on-line. Never had any issues with them. Are they any better than regular - who knows? Why do I use it - because I like the technology associated with it.
Like anything, its up for argument. But in my very humble opinion... no. There's no noticeable benefit to an "upgraded" spark plug. The recommended NGK will give very reliable spark and excellent longevity, assuming proper jetting.