KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

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    I'd recommend bottoming the fuel screw (gently!), than backing it out 1.75 turns as a starting point. May help reducing backfiring on deceleration; OEM settings excessively fuel-lean, IMHO.

    EDIT: Didn't intend to post redundant to IDRIDR's above; looks like we hit our SEND buttons almost at the same time.
  2. jonyfi

    jonyfi 21st century adventurer

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    OK, so after a few responses confirming that strategy as an option I will give it a try. I did do some research before reassembling and some folks suggested 2 and 1/2 turns... I thought that that was quite different than KAWI's suggested 1 and 3/8 turns...

    I did 1 and 1/2

    I will go to 2 turns

    ....and see what happens:D
  3. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Thoughts:

    1. Each oil seal is under a valve retainer and surrounded by two springs.
    2. The retainer must come off to get a new seal over the stem even if you cut the old seal out.
    3. The springs have to be compressed to remove the keeper and retainer.
    4. The springs are strong.
    If you made a spring compressor that DIDN'T press on the face of the valve, it would have to hold the valve stem against pretty strong pressure and not mar the stem.

    So I think that you've had no responses because nobody has done it. But let this post bump your question to the current page and maybe we'll hear about someone who has done it.
  4. redog1

    redog1 KTM 690R

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    Pretty much convinced the head has to come off for the reasons you state. Really no way to compress the valve springs to get the keepers off, even if you could it's not likely you could get them reinstalled. I'll just dive into it. Now since I have to go that far, I'm thinking I might as well re-ring it. Have all winter to do it.
  5. HellSickle

    HellSickle Scone Rider

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    Make sure you don't have a air leak on the downstream side of the carb. To test, hold an unlit propane torch around the intake side with the bike idling. If the idle speed changes, it's sucking in propane thru a leak. As mentioned, popping is a sign of running too lean.
  6. OKlr

    OKlr 25mph gate inpector

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    key word there.
  7. sandalscout

    sandalscout blah blah blah

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    I have no experience with doing them on a car, but I've seen/handled a valve spring compression tool that you can use while the head is still on the block for both a Honda and Mitsubishi. They were both based on C-Clamps with special fittings on them. Anyway, just saying that while it may technically be possible, I don't think you could actually get one in around the frame.
  8. jonyfi

    jonyfi 21st century adventurer

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    UNLIT...
    Ya for sure...
    :lol3
  9. Aprilia

    Aprilia Long timer

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    What year is your KLR? GenII's are equipped with AIS and its sole purpose is to inject fresh air into the exhaust port to burn off excess fuel while decelerating i.e. popping is direct result. If your's is a GenI then most likely cause is exhaust leak allowing fresh air to enter the exhaust. Header flange is most common.

    I set my fuel screws using an Air/Fuel meter with an O2 bung installed in the header. Most KLR's like to see just under 2 turns to just over 2 turns. Temp/elevation changes can alter the proper setting. You can set by 'ear' pretty easily. Does take a bit of practice/patience but get a feel for it and you can set it almost as accurate as a wideband A/F.

    How to....install an adjustable fuel screw. Get the bike fully warm. Turn idle down below 1K rpm's. Begin turning the fuel screw in 1/4 at a time but give the bike 8-10 sec to respond to each movement. What you are looking for is when RPM's drop. Once you find that point notate the number of turns out. Now begin to open the fuel screw 1/4 turn until RPM's drop. Notate the setting then divide the two setting to arrive at your ideal setting. Be sure to return your hot idle RPM's back to at least 1200.

    Side note: I've had several CVK carbs with such poor needle to needle valve sealing that even with the fuel screw closed the bike would still run. Not supposed to do that! If your bike is one then simply set it 2 turns out and call it a day.
  10. Old Kiwi#99

    Old Kiwi#99 Been here awhile

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    I've done this many times on car engines. With relevant piston at TDC, screw a spark=plug threaded adapter in and compressed air is applied to hold the valves shut (normal shop air pressure).
    Valve sprint compressor is not the usual G clamp style, in this case it is attached to the cylinder head eg use the rocker stud and then lever down on the spring as usual.

    If you really really wanted to do the KLR you could make a shaft that replaces the cam, use that as a fulcrum to put the spring compressor lever under (eg put the shaft in the inlet side to do the exhaust springs.)
  11. tommu56

    tommu56 Long timer

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    I did a tractor by stuffing clothes line in the spark plug with the piston at BDC and spinning crank to TDC or as close as you can get it to hold the valve in position. compress the spring

    Some thing like this is what I used to compress the spring again it had a push rod and rocker arm over the top not OHC.

    [​IMG]

    tom
  12. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

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    If the seals need replacing, there is a good chance that the valves/seat need re-facing or grinding too. Might as well do a full head clean-up job if you are going to that much trouble just for the seals
  13. Danger4u2

    Danger4u2 KX500 is Danger4u2

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    +1. If it's worth doing it's worth doing it correctly.
  14. Rode2Nowhere

    Rode2Nowhere Long timer

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    :nod
    I (unfortunately) had the head off my '08 twice when I had it. Sounds/seems like a daunting task at first, but its not so bad. Just takes time, and an extra $38 or so for a head gasket.

    Beyond what's involved with a valve adjustment and the Doo, its pretty much just pulling the carb, the exhaust header, coolant hose, and the bolts holding the head to the cylinder, and taking care not to drop the cam chain into the case. And of course proper torque when re-installing.
  15. mxboy96

    mxboy96 Adventurer

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    Hey ya hooligans. Wonderin if any of you guys have thought of or made a cool mod to get the stator wires out of the way when putting on a 16 tooth front sprocket? I've got mine on, but the chain rubs on the 'plastic' guard and it will eventually wear through, contacting the stator wires they so convienently ran right there. I'd like to keep my 16 tooth, but I really want to keep the stator wires too(they're just a tad more critical;)). Thanks guys!
  16. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    I never had a clearance issue with 16 tooth sprocket. I heard the guys who run the 17 toothers have to remove the cover, but still cleared the wires.
  17. East Coast Rider

    East Coast Rider Just Me...

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    No clearance issues with stator wires on my 16.... :D
  18. Nitro1970

    Nitro1970 Been here awhile

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    No problems with a 16. Had to trim the guard a bit for the 17 but it never has gotten into the wires...
  19. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    I have a 2001 and I don't know if the sprocket cover and "separator" are exactly the same or not. (I'll call it a separator because it sure ain't a protector.)

    I saw some superficial marks on my the separator and looked into it a bit. With the bike in the air and the suspension fully extended the chain can rub on the back lip of the sprocket cover. And it's hard to see the front of the sprocket with the cover on so, for a while, I thought I could hear the chain hitting the separator.

    In the end I decided that the marks were from when the chain is loaded with clay and crud and that the chain doesn't usually hit the plastic. The superficial marks haven't changed much in 10 or 14 thousand miles.

    I can see how these pieces of plastic can each flex a little differently so one may have contact where another does not.
  20. NHADV

    NHADV Been here awhile

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    Anyone out there go from stock Dunlop's to Kenda Big Blocks? I just put a set on and the front end seems glued to the road. I only put 25 miles on going to dinner and back. Anyone else notice a big handling difference when you switched?