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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
MT21 fronts are great!
I don't run less than 18. Dropping from 20 to 18 makes a huge difference.
Also stand up on the pegs, stay loose on the grips,use the pegs for direction,and let the bike dance a bit.
30 on the street
20 in the dirt.
front and rear.
Hoping someone can help me out. I bought this CZR system from ebay. The seller has sold a ton of them and has lots of great reviews. But I'm having a strange problem with mine. It fits the bike fine, but the calipers won't bite the rotor until the lever travels all the way to the handle bar. And then it just barely grabs the rotor. If I fiddle with the adjustment screw on the lever, the pads drag on the rotor. Basically, the caliper remains partially engaged. And even with the caliper partially engaged, with the pads dragging on the rotor, significant lever travel is required before the caliper grabs the rotor.
I have installed a new steel braided line, there are no leaks and there is no air in the system. Repeatededly bled the brakes. Everything is new. New caliper, new rotor, new master cylinder/lever, new brake line, new pads, new fluid. I'm stumped.
Wondering if anyone has any experience with this system and/or advice. Thanks
Perhaps the master can't push enough fluid to properly engage the brake caliper. Or there is still air in the lines. I've bled brand new hydros before and sometimes it takes a lot of bleeding to get all of the air bubbles out.
Gents (and ladies), I passed my MSF class today with outstanding success. Just have to wait for my forms to come in the mail and then I can take my DMV permit test. Then I can actually get out on the open road rather than screw around on the trails and private roads around town here
Burton's Ferry, 301 Bridge over Savannah River
Thanks XpressCS. I've bled it repeatedly. Same result every time. Bled it at both banjo bolts. No luck
I'm not very good at bleeding brakes, but one of those vacuum bleeders on the caliper does wonders for me.
You have air in your brake system. I always power bleed from the caliper up to the mstr on the bars. Try wrapping a strap around your brake lever after pulling it as far back as it will go. leave it over nite and give it another try.
This is one technique I have not tried. I will do this.
Thanks for the advice, Friends
Agreed, all your symptoms point to air in the line.
It is very hard to bleed the brakes with a loop that is higher than the master cylinder.
If that is your problem , lay your bike on the left side and then bleed brakes again. Don't ask how I learned this!
Thanks for all the prompt advice guys. I'm unfortunately not going to be able to get to it again until Saturday. But I will try the techniques listed here. Again, thanks for the support!
Where are you located? Can post up in the Regional section, perhaps someone can swing by, talk about brakes, and drink your beer. Or just drink your beer
I am 5'10" and like my 08 shield stock. Tried a laminar lip and hated it, gave me turbulence where I had none before. That said, a buddy of mine who's a little taller went for a ride and said he got bad buffeting. So I think it really depends on the individual and where you end up in the airstream, and also maybe to some degree your helmet, as that will of course be affected by the airflow (or lack of it). Personally I put mine back stock and am not gonna change it again.
I'm wondering why you're bleeding at the Banjo bolts? "Bled it at both banjo bolts." If you're bleeding it there down on the caliper you're not getting the air out of the upper piston on the caliper. Bleed your brakes using the bleeder valve on the caliper. The valve with the rubber cap on it. It's at the upper most part of the caliper and will allow all of the air out.
Just noticed he said Banjo bolts as well...
The bleeder valve will look like this:
Anyone ever cut the stock screen down on a 2008+ KLR? If so, do you have pictures?
Got an issue with starting my 2001 KLR650.
Here's some background info. This bike has 20K on the clock. I am not the primary rider. I did a 685 upgrade about a year ago. This summer one of the main crank bearings went south. I have fixed that, and while I was in there I replaced ALL the bearings and seals. Believe it or not, I was able to replace the left side crank bearing AND race without having to replace the case! Got a new crank in there too, and a new set of rings.
Now for the starting issue:
Cold start is very good. Pull the enrichener and it fires right up, just as it should.
Hot start...not so good. Takes a while. I have found it starts better hot when I pull the enrichener, but then it still takes a few seconds of cranking and sometimes even a good backfire to get things going.
The bike runs great. Strong as ever and is delivering about 51 mpg or so.
Now you guys tell me how to make that KLR hot start like it should!
Thanks a ton!
Have you pulled the carb and thoroughly cleaned it? Checked for air leaks?