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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Added on to the stock shock.
Then I'm definitely interested in hearing more.
Of all the Klr riders, you could probably use it most, the stuff you subject your bike to.
I just got some fittings in the mail, so I will be working on it soon.I will post up details as I get it done.
First thing I have to do is remove the stock schrader valve where you charge it with nitrogen and drill it out for a 1/8 pipe tap, then tap the hole and install a long street elbow fitting.
Dirty Dog-I don't know if you have seen my thread on the bike but I will post details there as I get it done.
Heres a link.
We don't know if your bike gets regular rigorous maintenance or if it's overdue for everything. It may be OK with checking valve gap, change oil, and have chain and sprockets that are not totally shot. Have the swingarm and linkage bearings ever been serviced? Are the wheel bearings 11 years old? I usually deal with fork seals only when they leak, but if those are 11 years old you may want to just replace them before you go. I will assume that modifications for comfort have been taken care of.
There are entire threads on what may or may not need to be done to a bike from thermobob to larger or smaller sprockets. Some people need many of them and others need none.
For any of you GenII ('08+) KLR guys who might be interested...
I bent the rim on my front wheel yesterday. I notice that the replacement cost is quite high. Does anyone have any recommendations on what to do?
Contact Woody's Wheel Works. They are a supporter here. Great people but more important great work. They fixed an rim for me and I couldn't even tell it was never bent.
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1. Is it causing the bike to shake or behave like it is out of balance?
Assuming "No" then the KLR solution is a big ass rubber mallet. Congratulations on your new character mark!
I remember seeing decals on the tank of a KLR .. BWM style ( not the roundels) .. It was the same text as the BWM adventure but says KLR ADVENTURE . I have seen the same thing on vstroms . Anyone have a clue or am I imagining things ?
I've had good luck by heating with a Mapp gas torch, then placing a chunk of
hard wood on the ding. I then hit the wood block with a 3-pound hammer. Just don't
strike the rim directly with a hammer! Usually when I finish, it's hard to tell where
the damage was... (oh yeah...first remove the wheel from the bike and then remove
I got mine here
How many miles is too many for an '08 KLR? I'm looking at one with with 20,000 miles on it, includes a centerstand and highway pegs (I would be getting the centerstand anyway) that looks like it was mostly ridden on the road. It is the first one I've looked at that shows no signs of being dropped or thrashed. It is a private seller, one owner, BUT, nothing has been done to fix the doohickey or the frame bolts, or the oil burning issue. It runs and sounds good, and I could not tell that it was burning oil. Seller wants $3250. Claims it has been well maintained, and the oil was new. Sounds a bit high for 20,000 miles, but this is AZ, and bike prices are higher here than many other places.
5 to 6 year old bike with 20k had hardly been ridden. I wouldn't worry about it. Do the doo and maybe freshen the suspension and put another 30k on it without worry. Maybe ensure the valves have been checked or check them to be sure, perhaps new spark plug and air filter clean too.
Odd grammar, words and spelling brought to you by my iPhone's autocorrect.
What Marc said. Mine (2008) had 23,000 miles, one of the few 2008's that doesn't burn oil. These bikes can go over 100,000 miles if properly maintained. If it looks that good, then it probably was taken care of. Price sounds a little high for around here but maybe normal there.
Amazing 20,000 miles and he didn't fix or address any of the "internet" problems with the bike. Maybe he just rode it.
as many have mentioned before pricing is subject to location and demand. IMHO shopping around a bit in your area can usually give you a good idea of what bikes local to you are selling for.
While working on the wheel - check you spoke tension too. That is a part of regular PM that most neglect.