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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
ready for the read.. could not fined this. the search feature is well for me not so good.
I still can't believe how cheap these bikes are in the USA.....
$2000 less than here in Australia.
I guess there has to be some benefit of living there
I agree. It has a lot of well thought out additions.
The fix for the oil burning is new rings plus a re hone of the cylinder. The dealer put in piston and rings. Why be suspicious if the owner did not do it himself. The bike was probably under warranty.
The jet kit is a non issue. Don't like it, take it out. Stock needles are $20
That bike does not have 102,000 miles on it. Is the speedo fixed?
Thank you for all the replies. I am excited about all of the extras, has almost everything I want and then some. Only mods I'm not excited about are the jet kit and the 14 tooth sprocket. I plan to do probably 90/10 street to dirt so neither of these are really a plus. Also, the turn signal beeper is so loud it made me jump when I was checking that the signals functioned (I'm sure I can disconnect this).
Reference the stage 1 jet kit, the seller said he thought it was a Dyno jet kit, but the label on it was Studebaker, so he wasn't sure what manufacturer the kit was.
My main concern about the odometer was resale value. Not that I plan on selling it anytime soon, but I guess I worry other potential buyers would be as trusting as I am. I guess I'm being silly because if you guys don't think it is a big deal, than most potential buyers wouldn't either.
I'll let you know how it all turns out. My mechanic isn't open until Tuesday, so if it works out I'll know Tuesday night.
Looking for advice and direction...
Neutral light no longer lights up. Looked at the diagram, I see it is fed by a brown (+12V) and baby blue (on pic is it LT GN) which feeds all the way to the gear box. When the bike is in Neutral, the LT GN wire shorts to ground, and the light should come on.
If I disconnect the wire from the gear box and short it to the frame, the light comes on. And to make sure I am not stupid, I did rotate the rear wheel to make sure I was in Neutral.
Looking in Google, can't find anything in reference to replacing a Neutral switch inside the gearbox...
Tx for any tips
G'day Stuser, I got the Wossner kit from the local distributer (Serco, Brisbane) and they also did the bore job, but another local engine builder (Dave Chilton) did the head... and I'm doing the rest.
Sometimes a switch will get "fussy" and only light up when the selector is centered in neutral. But it sounds like this is not a single instance, but a total failure.
The neutral switch simply unscrews from the case. After you get it out, test the switch itself to see if the problem is the switch contact or the switch "button" not being pushed far enough.
If you clean enough chain lube out of there, you'll probably see clearly how to get it out.
Studebaker kit is a repackaged DJ kit. You don't buy bikes for resale value. You buy them to ride and enjoy. Entry price for a KLR is very low. If you managed to rack up 75K miles next couple yrs you'd still get $1500 for it. $ per mile usage is very very very low. Buy it, do the basic hit items for GenII's, maintain it with records and just ride!
Studebaker is probably a Chinese knock off of some ones jet kit. If the bike runs OK and gets decent mileage, I would not be worried about removing it. They do give a modest boost in power. Stage 1 is meant for stock bikes with no exhaust modifications
The stock sprocket is 15 tooth, the owner may have it laying around if he is the one that replaced it with a 14. If you do any off road, that 14 is a good sprocket to have.
I have my 08 torn down to just the mechanicals and have considered not putting the front fairing back on after I'm done. I plan on taking everything off the frame and painting it flat black instead of the silver color. Here is the catch, I want to change the look of the bike but with next to nothing to spend on fancy fairings. I kind of dig the single round headlight mounted to the tree look. How hard is it to go old school and still use the tach and speedo from the stock setup? Will the side fairings look right without the front one? Am I just talking out of my ass and assuming too much work for so little money? Note: I am a welder by trade and can make any brackets or guards that I may need.
Well, thanks for all the good advice guys. I was still really on the fence about the bike with all the upgrades and the odometer issue when I came across a new CL listing for an '09 KLR. I looked at it today and bought it. The owner really babied it and it looks almost like new. Got a good enough price that I still have enough money left over to make a significant dent in the upgrades I intend to do to it. Again, thanks for all you input.
Thanks for the advice! Everything not pavement is covered in ice and snow here right now, so I may have to find an alternate method of pinpointing oil leaks, but the rest should be doable. I'll post if any new developments come up in the course of the work.
Well done. I think that you made the right choice. There are just too many nice reasonably priced bikes out there right now to take a chance on one with a questionable history.
Congrats on the new bike
I think either way you would have been happy.
This way you get to do all the mods yourself though.
Ditto. And that's a looker right there.....
Sweet Bike. Congrats.
Thanks for the nice comments guys. Been having lots of fun with it today (like riding to the motor vehicle department to get it plated).
Checked valve clearance last night with feeler gauges. 2006 model with 13K miles, I've had it for a little over a year and picked up with 11.5K miles. Don't know if valves have ever been checked or adjusted before. Results:
Lt Ex: between .076 & .102 mm
Rt Ex: 0.15 mm (tight fit)
Lt In: 0.15 mm (tight fit)
Rt In: 0.15 mm
Specs: Inlet 0.10 - 0.20 mm. Exhaust 0.15 - 0.25 mm.
Questions: Is it typical on these for the exhaust to be out of spec before intake? Is there anything I should be especially concerned with on the left exhaust being so far out of spec? Plan to pull the exhaust shims out tonight and replace appropriately.
If it were my bike ...
Concern? Nah. I'd just adjust and ride it. To me its not THAT far out. If it were dangerously out of spec the exhaust valve wouldn't be allowed to close all the way, letting the exhaust gasses ignite, and you'd be backfiring.
... I think...
I've seen much worse...particularly on GenII bikes as scheduled maintenance was inappropriately extended out by Kawi. Stupid marketing department. Adjust to max end and go ride!