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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
Has anyone attempted to mount a tool tube to the JNS Skidplate? Any success?
I've noticed the voltage on my '04 KLR650 has been dropping from 14.8V to 12.5V over a 45 minute ride to work with heated vest and grips running. Initially turning off the grips will bring the voltage back up but by the time I get to work it wont. I have changed all the lights except the headlamp to LED, and the battery is a 1.5 year old AGM. Ive been running this setup for about a year without any trouble until one particularly cold day last week when I turned on the grips while wearing heated glove liners because one liner wouldnt heat up on my way to work. I dont know if I overloaded the charging system.
I've had charging systems quit on me but never work at the beginning of a ride and slowly run out of power.
Any Idea where I should start looking?
That's not much fluctuation. I'd consider that normal. I consider anything better than 12volts good.
Mine was going from 9v to 13. And occasionally cranky about starting, then quit altogether. Turned out to be a loose battery ground connection. That would be the first place to check.
KLR's are not fussy machines. Just keep them lubed and locktited.
If you're reading anything below about 13.5V at the battery with the engine running, you're not charging and will surely end up with a dead battery if that low-voltage continues long enough.
I would consider a bad voltage regulator that dies when it gets hot.
I got these in a box of parts with my bike... what are they? I thought they look liked bar-end weights or mirror mounts but have no real idea.
Mirror vibration reducers.
Thanks for the quick reply.
Here's a couple of pictures of last nights easy project. I got a little blood on the old rotor
When you draw current from the battery the voltage will drop. It can take lots of charging to bring the voltage up again. You can easily be charging with a voltage of 13.0, but that means that your battery is very discharged and it'll take a while to charge it up. You CAN be charging with a voltage of 12.5, but it means that you've used almost all the battery capacity and you need to charge it a long time.
I used to see this when trying to run my electric jacket off a 170W alternator (different bike). If I was stingy with the heat, the battery would recover OK. If I needed more heat I'd draw the battery down to where it took a LONG time to recover. That same battery is still in that bike several years later.
It sounds like you put your battery on a charger at home. Do you?
It could be simply drawing more than the alternator will provide.
It could be a battery losing capacity. (I see this in flooded batteries, but I am not so familiar with how this works for AGM.)
It could be a connection or regulator.
In my experience, my Generation 1 KLR650's electric power generation and storage system would not "keep up" with both Gerbing's jacket liner and gloves operating.
Fortunately, an obliging hill was available nearby for bump-starting when I discovered this electric power deficiency (thank goodness, the Generation 1's ignition runs off stator exciter coil alternating current, NOT the battery!)
Solution: Installed Race Tech 280-watt stator (and their heavy-duty rectifier/regulator, just for insurance, the stock unit would probably make it through).
Evaluation: WHAT? ME worry? Hundred-mile ride below freezing through snowfall; snug as the proverbial bug in the Gerbing's, bike kicked off flawlessly in 20-degree F. weather the next day.
IMHO, the Generation 1 stator's overly stressed with the electrical load you've applied; you may be able to get by with some "power management," as in turning off your auxiliary electrics before you shut 'er down, but . . . I think the long-term, worry-free solution is a more robust stator.
I guess Ill try a battery first. I was thinking that the voltage would be low with the engine off and stay low if the bike wasnt charging. Maybe I'll find a bad connection that is heating up and causing resistance as I ride. As a last resort I'll go for the upgraded stator and regulator.
I dont have the numbers anymore, but when I changed to all LED I took current draw readings. I remember that the power savings was significant especially with the brakes on. I also remember noting that I had ample power in reserve for heat, according to Kawasaki spec. I posted it up somewhere maybe I'll go find it.
Right! The part that is still confusing me is, HOW IS THE BATTERY DRAINING WHILE THE BIKE IS PUTTING OUT 14.5v???? Is it possible for the bike to put out voltage but not current? ohhhhhh I guess it is.
Have you checked whether you have a drain on the battery with the key off? Pull a terminal off a post and put an ammeter in series and see if there is a draw.... I haven't read all the posts relating to your issue so if someone already stated this. Then disregard. Listen to XDR, he has his poop assembled....
You will love that...well worth the money
Indeed, any of the various front brake upgrades are well worth the money. Nothing like being able to stop when you want/need to.
as with many bikes any upgrades to the brakes and suspension are welcome changes..
Are you calling the stock setup on a KLR suspension???
Any San Diegans that can come and lend a fellow KLR owner a hand tomorrow??
well for lack of a better word
I have increased my spring to a 550lb, had the shock revalved, also revalved the forks and added heavier springs, those combined with a fork brace really improved the pigs handling manners
Explaining electricity usually uses odd analogies and I'll add to the oddity.
Charging a battery with a small generator (or rectified alternator) is like pushing a cardboard box. When the box is full of weight you can push on it with 20 lbs of force and move it along. When the box is empty you can push and the box will move, but the box moves too fast to let you push with 20 lbs of force.
When your battery is full it acts as if it has high resistance and you can measure 14.5V. When the battary is empty it acts as if it has low resistance and the current is absorbed so fast that the voltage stays lower.
This IS in fact called "internal resistance" in the battery world. It is a resistance that is not directly measured with an ohmmeter. The internal resistance must be calculated by applying a higher voltage and measuring the amps going into the battery. Internal resistance changes with state-of-charge; it's higher with a charged battery and lower with a discharged one.
The usual analogy for electricity is water. When you pump water into a tank the water level will rise and the pressure at the bottom of the tank will increase. If you drain the tank, you can pump water into it but it will take a while for the level to rise. Your pump will spin faster and move more water if the tank is empty and it does so because the pressure is lower. If you can pump fast enough, you may be able to measure pressure higher than the water level can maintain when you stop pumping. If you have a big hole in the tank you'll have trouble rising the water level at all.
If the bottom of the tank is full of gravel and the tank is full, you may have high pressure, but after only a little water drains out the water level (and pressure) drop quickly. (And it's time to buy a new tank/battery).
My house runs on batteries. I wound my own coils for a wind generator to charge my house batteries. I watch battery voltage daily.