KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. Danger4u2

    Danger4u2 KX500 is Danger4u2

    Joined:
    Mar 15, 2007
    Oddometer:
    748
    Location:
    OKC
    Sounds like you ran it to long and it's welded in the bearing.

    We have a friend that maintains his KLR when it breaks. I changed my rear bearings at 22,000 miles, did they need it? There was a little slop in the carrier bearing, I might have gotten another 5,000 miles out of it, for $17 dollars I changed all three of them for piece of mind. I took the old bearings to the local bearing shop and bought bearings that were twice the quality over stock, seals on both sides. This friend has run his bearings to failure. Personally I would have noticed something was wrong before the sprocket carrier cut part way thru the swingarm. He's the rider that changes one sprocket or just the chain. We all know they should be changed as a set. The crazy part is, he has the money, he's just cheap. He will squeeze a quarter until the eagle screams. I change parts/tires when I have used 70% of their life. The next crazy part is, he wants my used parts.
    We rate our rides on how many parts fall off of his bike or how many times our other friend falls over on his KLR.
  2. Kawidad

    Kawidad Long timer

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    Jul 9, 2005
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    Central Coast, Cal
    Try heating things up with a propane torch. Get it hot, but not too hot. I gauge it by touch, as soon as you can no longer touch it, then that should be enough, then try popping it out. :deal
  3. Aprilia

    Aprilia Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    785
    Location:
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Ditto...
  4. wapiti1001

    wapiti1001 Adventurer

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    May 11, 2011
    Oddometer:
    11
    Location:
    VA
    Has anyone attempted to mount a tool tube to the JNS Skidplate? Any success?
  5. GO_OUTSIDE!

    GO_OUTSIDE! dirty hippie

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    302
    Location:
    SF Bay Area California
    I've noticed the voltage on my '04 KLR650 has been dropping from 14.8V to 12.5V over a 45 minute ride to work with heated vest and grips running. Initially turning off the grips will bring the voltage back up but by the time I get to work it wont. I have changed all the lights except the headlamp to LED, and the battery is a 1.5 year old AGM. Ive been running this setup for about a year without any trouble until one particularly cold day last week when I turned on the grips while wearing heated glove liners because one liner wouldnt heat up on my way to work. I dont know if I overloaded the charging system.
    I've had charging systems quit on me but never work at the beginning of a ride and slowly run out of power.
    Any Idea where I should start looking?
  6. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

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    Jun 23, 2006
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    2,526
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    Thailand
    That's not much fluctuation. I'd consider that normal. I consider anything better than 12volts good.

    Mine was going from 9v to 13. And occasionally cranky about starting, then quit altogether. Turned out to be a loose battery ground connection. That would be the first place to check.

    KLR's are not fussy machines. Just keep them lubed and locktited.
  7. MacNoob

    MacNoob piney fresh

    Joined:
    Jun 2, 2010
    Oddometer:
    1,776
    Location:
    The mosquito-y Center of Canada
    If you're reading anything below about 13.5V at the battery with the engine running, you're not charging and will surely end up with a dead battery if that low-voltage continues long enough.

    I would consider a bad voltage regulator that dies when it gets hot.
  8. JBradley500

    JBradley500 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    60
    I got these in a box of parts with my bike... what are they? I thought they look liked bar-end weights or mirror mounts but have no real idea.

    [​IMG]
  9. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Dec 10, 2005
    Oddometer:
    3,046
    Location:
    Maine
    Mirror vibration reducers.
  10. JBradley500

    JBradley500 Adventurer

    Joined:
    Jan 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    60
    Thanks for the quick reply.

    Here's a couple of pictures of last nights easy project. I got a little blood on the old rotor :bash

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
  11. Grinnin

    Grinnin Forever N00b

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    Oddometer:
    3,046
    Location:
    Maine
    When you draw current from the battery the voltage will drop. It can take lots of charging to bring the voltage up again. You can easily be charging with a voltage of 13.0, but that means that your battery is very discharged and it'll take a while to charge it up. You CAN be charging with a voltage of 12.5, but it means that you've used almost all the battery capacity and you need to charge it a long time.

    I used to see this when trying to run my electric jacket off a 170W alternator (different bike). If I was stingy with the heat, the battery would recover OK. If I needed more heat I'd draw the battery down to where it took a LONG time to recover. That same battery is still in that bike several years later.

    It sounds like you put your battery on a charger at home. Do you?

    • It could be simply drawing more than the alternator will provide.
    • It could be a battery losing capacity. (I see this in flooded batteries, but I am not so familiar with how this works for AGM.)
    • It could be a connection or regulator.
  12. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,356
    In my experience, my Generation 1 KLR650's electric power generation and storage system would not "keep up" with both Gerbing's jacket liner and gloves operating.

    Fortunately, an obliging hill was available nearby for bump-starting when I discovered this electric power deficiency (thank goodness, the Generation 1's ignition runs off stator exciter coil alternating current, NOT the battery!)

    Solution: Installed Race Tech 280-watt stator (and their heavy-duty rectifier/regulator, just for insurance, the stock unit would probably make it through).

    Evaluation: WHAT? ME worry? Hundred-mile ride below freezing through snowfall; snug as the proverbial bug in the Gerbing's, bike kicked off flawlessly in 20-degree F. weather the next day.

    IMHO, the Generation 1 stator's overly stressed with the electrical load you've applied; you may be able to get by with some "power management," as in turning off your auxiliary electrics before you shut 'er down, but . . . I think the long-term, worry-free solution is a more robust stator.
  13. GO_OUTSIDE!

    GO_OUTSIDE! dirty hippie

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    302
    Location:
    SF Bay Area California
    I guess Ill try a battery first. I was thinking that the voltage would be low with the engine off and stay low if the bike wasnt charging. Maybe I'll find a bad connection that is heating up and causing resistance as I ride. As a last resort I'll go for the upgraded stator and regulator.
    I dont have the numbers anymore, but when I changed to all LED I took current draw readings. I remember that the power savings was significant especially with the brakes on. I also remember noting that I had ample power in reserve for heat, according to Kawasaki spec. I posted it up somewhere maybe I'll go find it.
  14. GO_OUTSIDE!

    GO_OUTSIDE! dirty hippie

    Joined:
    Jun 29, 2011
    Oddometer:
    302
    Location:
    SF Bay Area California
    Right! The part that is still confusing me is, HOW IS THE BATTERY DRAINING WHILE THE BIKE IS PUTTING OUT 14.5v???? Is it possible for the bike to put out voltage but not current? ohhhhhh I guess it is.:confused
  15. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Have you checked whether you have a drain on the battery with the key off? Pull a terminal off a post and put an ammeter in series and see if there is a draw.... I haven't read all the posts relating to your issue so if someone already stated this. Then disregard. Listen to XDR, he has his poop assembled....
  16. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    You will love that...well worth the money
  17. newcastleadam

    newcastleadam Artful Tagger

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    3,479
    Location:
    Gainesville, Fl
    Indeed, any of the various front brake upgrades are well worth the money. Nothing like being able to stop when you want/need to.
  18. PWRCRZR

    PWRCRZR Grumpy Old Bastard

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    Mid-Coast Maine
    as with many bikes any upgrades to the brakes and suspension are welcome changes..
  19. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

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    Jan 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,051
    Location:
    Redding, CA
    Are you calling the stock setup on a KLR suspension???:clap:rofl
  20. XpressCS

    XpressCS Must. Have. Lumens..

    Joined:
    May 22, 2012
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    1,383
    Location:
    The big box California
    Any San Diegans that can come and lend a fellow KLR owner a hand tomorrow??