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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
I use loctite AND Anti-Seize on each bolt and let them fight it out ...
I can't tell the difference so easily yet ...
Red loctite'ed bolt still come out easier than salt corroded bolts without loctite.
I always play the 'which one' game with bolts. Sometimes when I can't decide I go with neither.
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Apparently I am missing the add Images button :huh
Ordered my new windshield, was really excited to have today off and was going to install it today. Unfortunately due to floods in Ontario the package is unaccounted for on UPS.com... Hopefully I still get it
another vote here for the packratt love mine. how do you have your pelicans mounted?
Ain't none, AFAIK.
Independent image hosting required to post pictures on this website; again, AFAIK.
Im pretty pissed at myself. Fukk. I went to the taco truck today and as I was leaving I decided to check my engine oil (im moving tomorrow and riding about 180 miles). I look at the glass and the oil level is barely above the window. WTF. I changed the oil and filter on the 18th of last month. Its NOT a burner. Or at least I thought it wasn't. Is that level low enough to cause damage? And if so what kind? Im super upset at myself for letting this happen. I guess I need to make a better habit of checking it.
On a side note, while I was at Wally's (I digging HATE Wally's with a passion but they have the oil I use, no one else in this tiny town does) I bought myself one of those ATV seatpads. Figured it would be useful on the trip tomorrow. Anyone else like or dislike these things?
Hey, a friend just bought a KLR, it is in my garage and I'm giving it a once over. 35k miles, 1993
PO says it was recently honed, new rings, valves lapped and new valve seals.
Taking it apart, the top end looks nice, I haven't taken the caps off yet but the lobes look brand new so I don't suspect oil starvation.
I have the left side open to do the doo, but it has already been upgraded. I did see some funkiness, I want to know what should be next....
Firstly, I found this sliver stuck to the pickup, any idea where it might have come off?
Next, and most scary is the bolt inside the cam chain loop has been eaten by the cam chain. The cam chain looks brand new, so I suspect it was replaced during the valve job. Could the old one stretched enough that is was slapping this bolt head? Can I just replace that bolt as it is now?
The counterbalance weights are spring mounted like a clutch right? This one is able to rotate a few degrees each way on its sprocket, I hope that is normal.
Thanks for the input. I was hoping I could just pop in here, upgrade the doo, new fluids all around and say its good. Looks like I might be going down a rabbit hole.
Also, vibrations are pretty intense. I was hoping the counterbalancer was stock so they might be fixed. I might loosen and tighten motor mounts to see if that helps?
What year bike is it?
The sliver- is it slightly rounded one side? If that, then it is a part of a circlip. Is the retaining circlip missing from the lower weight and shaft in the pic?
Why was the cylinder honed- a part of a larger issue to have the motor apart?
When was the cam chain changed? Seems as though there has been more work done than the PO has let on to?
Change the bolt out.
Weights are not spring loaded if a newer model motor.
Check the cam timing as well as the counter weight timing. When the chain was put on it is possible they were all not correctly timed - hence the vibrations.
The motor is hard mounted - if the mounting bolts as tight that will not affect the vibrations.
Happy Trails pucks with a bicycle seat post quick release..... on and off in seconds with no tools.
Depending on the oil temp, it sometimes takes a while for the oil to settle.
The oil level in sight glass is very sensitive to how level the bike is. If I recall, the oil shown in the sight glass is 1.2 qt. So, if you can see oil there, you are fine and no damage will have occurred. Get yourself a small bubble level (Camping stores). Place it on top of the oil filter section. Doing it that way you will always know that you are checking the the oil level the same way. Get the bike level and then check the oil.
Anything is better that a stock seat!
Are you confident that it strong enough? Several pounds of stuff, rough road or a slight bump could shear the pin on the plastic crack?
I was thinking the same thing. If the 2 bottom "hooks" are fully seated they should hold all the weight. But, myself and everyone else ALWAYS over loads.
I have a coleman pad,I used it on my DR350,it now resides on the KLR I think it works Ive had it so long its part of the seat,it does a fine job of protecting the seat from the sun and my boot dragging across the seat,it will crack you up now when you relize how many others have the pad also,if mine rips Ill replace it but its holds up pretty well for the price.
I wasn't at first but 17,000 miles later I guess I am now. Holes are still perfectly round, no cracks. I've carried a case of beer per side a few miles to the campsite a couple times. Not exactly a light load.
Would be a good idea to change those sprockets to the newer type. I can't tell if those are worn or not, but the originals tend to wear fast. Good used ebay parts can be had cheap, new ones are't too bad.
don't you north americans drink light beer anyway??