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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.
don't you north americans drink light beer anyway??
Barrowed from another site, this is the part numbers you need if you decide to do the balancer sprockets:
12046-1165 Sprocket upper/rear
92022-1880 washer (goes inside the upper rear sprocket)
13164-1007 Front lower sprocket/weight assembly
2 each 48052000 C-clips
Adjusted the pilot screw yesterday. Heart stopped a little when the bike wouldn't turn on. Realized I forgot to reconnect the start relay cable.
Tried to adjust the spring preload up from 5. Screw just turns and turns and nothing happens. There's no tension on it, I can twist it by hand. Any ideas??
Bike has 47000kms on it and hasn't had much work done on it before I bought it, so it might be time for some suspension work..not sure what will be involved in all that though..and certaintly don't have the cash this summer for any of it.
Start here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SYDM2UpnO4M
It is a 93, forgot to say that. Burning oil, the guy sent it to the shop for valves and a hone. Probably a new chain then. I will check the cam chain tensioner, timing for both chains and replace that bolt.
the balance weights still have me worried though, seems like a lot of wobble for something that should very closely match the crank angle. Looks like it is missing that circlip, hopefully it is in the sump...
What is the difference in sprockets?
thanks for the P/N
You noticed on yours, as I understand this, (I haven't looked at mine yet) the older ones are built out of several pieces including springs, I have no idea why. The newer ones are one piece solid units, less things to go wrong. I picked up a set of used sprockets (2007 parts) from fleabay recently for $29 shipped. YMMV
Yes, I just looked at the fiche, newer ones are solid mounted on the shaft instead of floating. I'll take a look around for some.
I'll get the shop manual, check the chains and timing and report back.
Anyone notice we have 500 pages in this thread? 7492 replies.
Started by willys back in 11-19-2011, 09:43 AM.
I just bought a Saddleman adventure touring seat last week. Definitely worth the $333 paid for it. I got it from redzilla. Pretty fast and free shipping.
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Previous head work was not done correctly, and the chain guide for the cam chain was mis-routed, causing the cam chain to grind away on the retainer bolt.
Best course of action is to replace the bolt, and check cam chain for excess wear. If that is the original cam chain, it's likely to be well past EOM stretch limit.
I had to fix one like that for a KLR bud. See pic below with guide (shoe) outside of socket.
Not sure about the sliver, but it does resemble a circlip - typically used to retain the balancer sprockets.
Highly recommend a very thorough inspection of those internals to ferret out any other gremlins from the PO.
I am thinking about joining the ranks of KLR owners.
Recently had a DRZ400SM stolen. before I bought the DRZ, I was considering a KLR, and after owning the DRZ ,I think the KLR might be the way to go.
Id like to do longer trips, and the KLR seems more well suited for that, as well as around town riding.
I would like a pre 08. both for looks and financial reasons. I read a few things about the newer model "using" oil, which i would like to avoid.
any tips on what to look out for when buying a pre 08 KLR.
especially ones with lower miles.
I am looking at an 05 right now with under 400 miles and i am wondering if this is more of a bad thing than good.
if you can still see oil in the view glass you are ok... it's when you can't see oil at all that's an issue.
How many miles have you put on the bike since your last oil change... dates don't really mean much. I changed my oil a month ago and had to redo it this week bc i reached 2k miles
The 2008 models had changed up the piston and rings ... and they had a very high probability of burning oil. Most of that was corrected and certainly 2010 and later KLRs have demonstrated good reliability.
However, I much prefer the simplicity and parts availability of the 2007 and earlier bikes. (still have a few KLRs 2006, 1989, and 1987 in the garage :) 'cause I have multi bike syndrome ). The '05 was a good year, as good as any other.
I will say that the best upgrade for the KLR is the 685cc kit. More power, better reliability, and no oil use. More power and the 16 tooth countershaft sprocket makes it a snap to cruise 80-90 with highway traffic.
1) Assume the previous owner abused the bike and did poor maintenance. Unless you know the dude was anal about taking care of his/her bike.
2) Go look at every KLR that comes up on CL or other sales rag. But don't buy one until you've looked at, sat on, rode on, and drooled on at least 5-10 bikes. You'll be much better informed, and start to look for the obvious signs of abuse (gouges in the cases/frame, missing screws, parts, fasteners, worn out tires, brakes, chain, shredded plastics, meters, controls.)
3) Plan on resetting all of the maint: Change oil/filter, coolant, brake fluid, check/adjust valves, scrub, wash, and pimp the pig out with Eagle-Mike doohickey and etc.
4) Find a riding buddy nearby, either KLR or other dualsporter.
Do I still need to worry about the doohickey if I have a 2012 klr? Or are all klr acceptable to it failing
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The 2008+ models have a better designed lever, but the springs still were consistently too short. Many people say that the new doo is fine, but I do believe a few have had failures. Since you have to get in there to replace the spring, might as well replace the lever too.
The first gens are also prone to oil consumption. It's hit or miss.
I have almost 20k miles on my 04 KLR, engine is 100% stock, never opened, thing still runs awesome, rolls right up to 65 on the highway, will go much faster if I wanted to.
The 07+ models have an upgraded doo, but it's never a bad idea to swap it with an EM doo.
When I opened it up, the guide was in the right spot. So perhaps the valve job was completed, reinstalled incorrectly, bolt wore through, then opened again and put in the right spot?
I will measure the chain, it looked really nice though. I need a c clip on the dampener, I think i will take the weight and gear out and look, it seems really sloppy.
Might as well check under the clutch cover too for any surprises!
Barely 200-300 miles.
I just rode it 40 miles to my brothers and noticed I didn't have rear brakes. I got to my brothers and im leaking some kind of fluid. Its all over my tire, swingarm and rotor. I don't know what kind of fluid it is and I've never had an issue losing/leaking engine oil or any fluids before. There's a hose that's part of the evaporative system where it looks like the fluids coming from but i can't tell for sure. It's not the brake fluid because the resevoir is still mostly full.
The only thing i can think of is i overfilled the engine oil, but i don't know where the leak would originate from. I put just over 2 quarts of oil in it before i left today to top it off. I didn't lose any from the looks of the sight glass either. Im so confused
My first guess would be that it really wasn't as low as you thought, and it was overfilled. It's possible that the excess oil was pushed into the airbox (via the evap system) and you are seeing it correctly.
Let the bike sit off for a few minutes, make sure the bike is on a completely flat surface, and recheck your oil. If still showing full oil, drain it and refill it. Will only cost a few bucks in Rotella, and ensure that you have it right.