KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. UtahGuido

    UtahGuido Long timer

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2007
    Oddometer:
    5,248
    Location:
    Spine 'O the Wasatch
    If you can't find them locally Fred at Arrowhead sports in Moab will mail you some. Link here. Look nine rows up from the bottom, aluminum drain plug crush washer, part #20-4538.
  2. VikB

    VikB Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    794
    Location:
    Victoria, BC, Canada
    Thanks. I have the stock oil plug that hasn't seen much use so I can always put it back in until I get the right washer for the magnetic plug.

    I have a magnet in my oil filter as well so I don't really need both anyways.
  3. One Fat Roach

    One Fat Roach honey badger

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,646
    Location:
    bellingham
    Rode about 120 miles yesterday. Most two lane highway at 55-60. The last 15 or so was FS roads and I noticed when I hit the road to head back into town my speedometer stopped working. My trip /odometer hasn't worked since I.bought the bike. Im gonna remove the cable, inspect and oil it and see if it will work then. I guess it's just more reason to get the Vapor TrailTech sooner than later. Too bad my finances suck
  4. Aprilia

    Aprilia Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    785
    Location:
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Cheaper to fix the problem. Most are related to incorrect installation of the front tire/ODO sending unit. As for no ODO but speedo works probably time to open up the gauge cluster to look see. Again, pretty basic design/engineering.
  5. One Fat Roach

    One Fat Roach honey badger

    Joined:
    Mar 23, 2013
    Oddometer:
    1,646
    Location:
    bellingham
    I've greased the bottom of the cable before. U think I jumbled it loose or something on some of the bumpy off roading. I realize its cheaper to fix but I have no idea what to look for inside the cluster. Guess it's time for trial and error eh?!!
  6. stuser

    stuser Putt putt putt

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    386
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    How long since you did the oil last? If only recently, seems a bit drastic to dump it just to change the washer unless it is pouring out! Why not go ride a thousand miles or so first??? :evil

    ...and the torque is: 29 Nm (aka 21 ft-lb in your archaic imperial system ) although personally I've never bothered... just don't overtighten.....:nod
  7. SkiBumBrian

    SkiBumBrian DualSport Crazy !!

    Joined:
    Jan 15, 2012
    Oddometer:
    1,051
    Location:
    Redding, CA
    Had to look that up, either I was wrong all this time or something is screwy.... Clymer's says 17 ft lbs.
  8. XDragRacer

    XDragRacer Long timer

    Joined:
    Mar 25, 2009
    Oddometer:
    3,353
    A modest proposal . . . why not CATCH the relatively clean oil in a container and RE-USE it??????????????

    Next, Clymer specifies oil drain plug torque as 23 N-m, or 17 ft-lb (to use the units of measure God intended), NOT 29 N-m/21 ft-lb as you post (the Clymer data for Generation 1).

    The torque figure is easy to remember, because the oil drain plug has a 17 mm (as cataloged in the Godless, Communist metric sytem) hex, numerically same as the torque in ft-lb.

    Generation 2 torques specs may differ.

    EDIT: Didn't see SkiBumBrian's post above before I posted this one. 29 N-m/21 ft-lb might be wretched excess. If the threads are stripped, I shall have to post my OVERSIZE OIL DRAIN PLUG soliloquy!
  9. Aprilia

    Aprilia Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    785
    Location:
    Flagstaff, AZ
    Oh no! Not again!! :evil
  10. VikB

    VikB Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Jun 9, 2011
    Oddometer:
    794
    Location:
    Victoria, BC, Canada
    Re-using the oil was my plan - it looks clean in the sight glass.

    The leak is minimal now, but I'll be thinking about that leak all the time when riding so it's easier on my brain to just fix the problem and be chilled out when riding.

    The threads aren't stripped. I may not be a great mechanic, but I'm not a goon. I hand thread bolts to ensure they aren't messed up when I hit them with a wrench.

    Sounds like the washer is the culprit. However I will double check everything visually once I have the plug out.
  11. stuser

    stuser Putt putt putt

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    386
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    ah my mistake... sorry yes that was the Clymer for gen II..... :huh
  12. stuser

    stuser Putt putt putt

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    386
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    I'm rather fussy about putting oil back through an engine once I've dropped it... no idea why, guess I'm just emotional like that.... perhaps I feel there is a chance for adding contamination? Or maybe I just want to put in new shiny stuff each time. Not been a problem for me personally seeing as the bike has been chewing through so much, but hopefully that will all change once I put in new piston etc....

    "Godless, communist metric system".... :wave :raabia
  13. stuser

    stuser Putt putt putt

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    386
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    ... and while I think about it, any suggestions as to diy head porting???? I have my head off and need to clean the crap off the combustion chamber. While I'm at it, might as well see what simple "mods" I can do to improve efficiency.

    Gen 2.

    Any ideas?

    Also replacing valve stem seals.
  14. Aprilia

    Aprilia Been here awhile

    Joined:
    Sep 15, 2008
    Oddometer:
    785
    Location:
    Flagstaff, AZ
    If it was an oil burner I'll give the valve seats a quick lapping. I have a gig that I can mount the KLR head to and test for leak down. With a very little effort I can generally get less than 5%.
  15. bush pilot

    bush pilot Long timer

    Joined:
    Jun 23, 2006
    Oddometer:
    2,526
    Location:
    Thailand
    The guys there in San Francisco Argentina sure came through. Got the exciter coils rebuilt, now they have a brownish epoxy finish instead of black.
    I'm still not sure how it all works being bathed in oil all the time.
    I'm also amazed at finding a guy to repair the stator/exciter assembly. In addition to all the cool electrical reworking gizmos in his shop he had four older Honda CX500's parked in his shop, all in good looking condition.
    It's remarkable what you can find off the beaten track.
    Seems like San Francisco AR is right in the heart of some of the richest agricultural land in the world, same black soil like Minnesota, but with a much milder climate.

    Anyway I got really lucky, I can't recall any other report of this kind of failure.

    Oh yea they only charged me 800 pesos (about $110 at black market rates)which included cleaning the carb and air filter. The fuel here really sucks and gums up the jets fast.
  16. MOTOPSYCHIC

    MOTOPSYCHIC n00b

    Joined:
    Jun 21, 2013
    Oddometer:
    6
    I have a 2012 KLR650 with 3,850 miles that developed an oil leak from the small pipe that feeds off a banjo bolt just below the starter on the engine case. At least that's where I think it's coming from. (if you can tell from these pictures) Pictures taken without any clean-up, so hopefully provides enough clues for someone who knows better.

    LEFT SIDE:

    [​IMG]

    RIGHT SIDE:

    [​IMG]

    Warranty expired last month :tough
    Anybody know if this is a common problem and what to do about it? The banjo bolt isn't loose or anything. I can't tell if I have multiple leaks, since it seems like it's seeping from that gasket on the right side. Any and all help appreciated, thanks.:lurk
  17. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,997
    Location:
    South Texas
    It is no big deal. Check for continuity to determine which is bad, verify guage of wire and number of coils, rewind the coil and then seal the coil.
  18. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,997
    Location:
    South Texas
    Not a big deal.
    The oil pump feeds oil to 4 places. Crankshaft main bearing through the crankshaft, cylinder head and 2 places in the transmission through the external piping. That banjo bolt and associated pipe is one of the transmission lubrication points and the oil is under pressure there (16-21psi warm). Sometimes the banjo bolt is not tight enough.(15ft/lbs). It is possible for the leaked oil to migrate. Clutch cover bolts need to be 78 in/lbs. If you dont have a torque wrench and have not tried to tighten them before, give them about 1/8 turn with a wrench.

    Snug them up and then clean the area with water soluble engine cleaner. If that does not cure the leak, buy two new copper crush washers.

    It is possible for some seapage from the crankcase breather pipe (right of the pic), but that is not oil under pressure.
  19. Tsotsie

    Tsotsie Semi-reformed Tsotsi

    Joined:
    Nov 12, 2007
    Oddometer:
    1,997
    Location:
    South Texas
    How many miles on the motor?

    Porting, done properly is expensive and or time consuming and unless it is part of a 'whole' system, does not make too much difference.

    There are two things you can easily do;
    1. There is a head bolt that can easily protrude into the exhaust port. Mine was too long and encroached about 1/4" into the port. Would cause major unwanted turbulance and restriction. Cut that flush.
    2. Where the flange is radially welded onto the exhaust pipe at the head. In the Gen2, this weld is about 1/8" high and protudes directly into the path of the gassses. This would reduce and restrict the effective flow diameter of the pipe by probably 1/2 behind it as well as cause a lot of turbulance. By grinding the weld down to about 1/32" (just enough to retain strength of the weld) you will significantly ease the flow restriction. It will add a slight bark to the exhaust note too as an unintended side.

    My head is at 50K miles and apart from the above, I adjusted the valves at 2K and the motor runs great still. Original seals and valve grind. Check the back of the exhaust valves for carbon too.
  20. stuser

    stuser Putt putt putt

    Joined:
    Sep 19, 2012
    Oddometer:
    386
    Location:
    Canberra, Australia
    only 27,000km