KLR650 Only Thread......

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by willys, Nov 19, 2011.

  1. ausfahrt

    ausfahrt mach schnell

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    Bust My Wallet indeed.:rofl

    I paid over 300 bucks for the Motolights on the GS and I was hoping to spend a little less on the KLR. The Trailtechs do look nice. I'll have to let this stew a bit, I'm not in a hurry.

    Thanks for the input fellas.
  2. MotoBoss

    MotoBoss Bad Influence

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    Steal the lights off the Beemer and the KLR will be sitting in high cotton. problem solved,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,well kinda. :evil
  3. enz0

    enz0 Been here awhile

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    My non-existant wrenching skills are only surpassed by my non-existant electrical skills so I'm going to turn to the wisdom of the collective for this one.

    2004 KLR, the headlight is always on, regardless of what position the key is in the ignition. neutral and oil light only go on when the bike is off but the headlight is on regardless, even with the key out of the bike.:huh

    any thoughts would be appreciated
    Cheers
  4. lexluther11

    lexluther11 Ride,Eat,Rest-Repeat

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    Try cleaning or spaying some contact cleaner in your key switch. Follow the wires back from your key switch looking for any loose wires, connections or cuts. I have a 2004 and the lights stay on always but not with the key out.
  5. TankCommander

    TankCommander Adventurer

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    What is the best/reasonably priced tires for the KLR? The OEM tires worked fine, but I want to know if there are better options out there for a fairly new dual sport rider. Weekdays I ride to work on the streets and weekends I am on the trails around Colorado Springs.
  6. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    That's almost like asking what brand oil to use! No fair! :huh

    You'll get a different opinion from practically every rider. How long is your ride to work, over what kind of roads? Are you looking for smoother on the street or grippier on the trails? Are your trails fire roads or gnarly goat-tracks? This will point you in the general direction. Dual-sport tires generally sacrifice dirt capability for street performance and vice-versa.
  7. schaffer40

    schaffer40 I look lived in.....

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    +1 on this..my thoughts exactly...I definitely don't have a bmw wallet. If I did I probably would not have bought the KLR. That is the bike I can afford and want to improve it in a reasonable manner. I keep remembering the saying "it's like putting lipstick on a pig".
  8. RevBill

    RevBill Irreverent Reverend

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    .. good times .. glad this thread got rolling .. I have been picking through the other sites and amassing large volumes of notepad docs .. some of it from a few of you guys ..

    RE the false neutral .. I've been having the problem of not holding second when riding after warm up and more notably on trails (with a lot of shifting up and down) .. she will land in second and then pop out .. holding it up with my toe and taking off usually will work to get going and then it will hold ..

    I don't think it's a matter of simply not landing the gear .. it's dropping out when I roll on it hard .. weak springs?? .. need new friction plates?? .. only does it when riding "more aggressively" .. commuting back and forth to work or out for country cruises I have no problems (yet) ..

    .. already upgraded to a longer shift arm (that was more for my size 13s though) .. still need to upgrade my levers .. no issues hitting the skid plate ..
  9. IDRIDR

    IDRIDR Take me to the River

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    This false neutral thing has been a problem with some KLX250s, specifically originating with the shift star. Owners did some grinding on it to make the teeth a little more pointed and aggressive. Apparently, the rounded nature of the stocker unit allows the tranny to catch or slip between gears for false neutrals, or slip out of 2nd into neutral. Could the KLR have a similar problem? Could the shift star be ground for crisper shifts? http://www.planetklx.org/techtips/shift-fix.html
  10. innathyzit

    innathyzit AKA Woodman

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    My klr has a habit of slipping into neutral when I throttle off when in second gear. The odd thing is, that it only does it after a clutchless shift into second. Makes no sense to me at all.Has given me several oh shit moments when expecting some engine braking only to have it slip into neutral instead.

    BTW, good thread,keep it seemly please.
  11. Mambo Dave

    Mambo Dave Backyard Adventurer

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    False neutrals and Kawasaki has been an issue for years. The guys at the race track knew it and told me about it - but only after I went full-tilt into a corner with a ZX-7 - the only way out of it was to be on the gas... but I didn't have a gear. All day long and up until that point it was one of the fastest there at the track that day. Had to stand it up and ride it into the grass, hit a rut from a car race the weekend before - dislocated clavicle and messed-up ZX-7.

    I've own nothing but Kwaka's for 17 years... They've done me right & wrong, but I'm still wondering what Suzuki transmissions are like.
  12. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    If you search "Rigid" in the Automotive category on Amazon.com, you'll get quite a number of hits. Like this: http://tinyurl.com/7cqhd32.

    The 2x2 floods or spots are $188/pr. The smaller Rigid light bar looks interesting also, at $235. It's still a fair amount for swine lipstick, but getting a quality product that you only have to install once would be worth it.

    Since both Rigid and Trailtech are US based, I'm wondering if it would be worth the biscuit to attempt a group buy from either company? My preference would lean toward Trailtech, as their system appears to be very versatile, and includes two styles of mounts and a wiring harness. Thoughts on this? It could be worth a phone call or an email to them.
  13. willys

    willys Long timer

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    OK, here's what I did for led lights to get me some extra lighting to see with but mostly to be seen by.
    I went to Home Depot and bought 2 12 volt track led bulbs. They have the push on terminals so it's easy to get a regular crimp fitting to slide over and then solder to. Yes I made then permanent. The bulbs were $30 each. They have 3 seperate 3 watt led bulbs in each fixture. With a spot type lense.
    Next I went to the plumbing deptment and found the 1 1/4" fittings ABS black. I think they were 1 1/4" but don't hold me to that sizing. What I was looking for was the clean out fitting that has the threaded end that the plug with the square ended cap threads into. You will find that the bulb will almost fit into the open end of the fitting. It just needs to be dremeled out a hair for the bulb to nicely slide into the fitting. Once it has been made to fit, you now need to focus on the other cap end. I used the square fitting as it allows the terminalend of the bulb to fit into that square part of the fittinf. You now need to cut the very end flat surface off that fitting to allow for the wires to get through, or drill a hole to accomplish the same.
    So now, you have a bulb that fits neatly into the non threaded end and a square cap with end opened up for wires to fit through. Trial fit everything to make sure it's all going to fit well when assembled. Once you are happy with it. Solder the positive and negative wires onto the bulb and shrink wrap the soldered wires just for peace of mind etc. Then use ABS cement to glue the bulb into place, it works on both bulb abd fitting. It works fast so be prepared! I have my bulbs flush with the ends of the fitting just about. Then thread the wires through the end cap and seal it up. I used black silicon. The bulbs don't generate enough heat to worry about plus the wind blowing on them keeps them cool anyway. So son't worry about sealing the bulb completely into the fitting. I thn just cleaned the whole thing up with a bit of black silicon looks wise at the front. Now, for the mounting bracket. There are many ways to make a bracket. I used a pair of old engine mounts and screwed the lights to them anf then used one of the holes in the guards to attach the finished lights to my engine guards down by my highway pegs.
    If you can deal with a few hours of labour and spend maybe $70 for a pair of stupidly bright, if you look into them....you now have a pair of great driving lights. Like I said to begin with, they are meant for being seen more than being a true spot light for a vehicle. But, they do throw some light to help with visibility. I have twin HIDs in my XS Britannia fairing so lighting isn't a concern for me, but I can see that they do add light infront of me.

    I'll try and get a few pics of them as I have them installed and also lit up...but the wife has the camera and, well she doesn't like me touching it.......lol...so she can do it.....plus it's easier this way.

    I might also add, they look the part and are basically bulitproof!:freaky
  14. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    That's clever!
  15. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    I was just wandering around at Happy Trails tire page, http://www.happy-trail.com/Departments/Tires-Tubes-Repair.aspx. It seems if anyone knows about KLR tires, the folks at HT would. The page shows quite a number of popular selections. HT admits their prices on tires may not be as good as from other sources, but the page would give you a reference. Of the ones listed, I've tried the following:

    Avon Distanzias: I've had great luck with these, but my last pair was a disappointment. Road-oriented. Great on gravel, nice on the road, great wet traction on pavement. Like a hog on ice in mud. Expensive.

    Conti TKC 80: Reasonably smooth on the street, and competent in an off-road environment. My last set scalloped very quickly on the front, something I've seen on other bikes. Expensive.

    Michelin T63: Very pleasantly surprised. I got a great deal on these, less than I would have paid for many lesser tires. They've worn well, and hook up nicely in most non-combat conditions. Long tours on pavement are their downside, they howl like a banshee.

    Shinkos generally: These will be my next tire for a long, not particularly technical ride up into the Canadian north on the Siss-Fitty. I'm running Shinko road tires on three machines, and have been pleased with cost, quality, durability and performance. I'll likely go with the 705. Moderately priced.

    Two Canadian friends put over 28,000 miles on Kendas last year, and swear by them. Model K270, I believe. They may be the cheap-seats winner.

    With inexpensive tires, there's usually a trade-off somewhere. A compound that is street-durable (hard) usually sucks in the rain or the slick stuff.
  16. Adiventure

    Adiventure Adventurer

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    I thought I'd say hi as a new KLR owner ('98). I've been really enjoying the bike (put 100 on it in the first day I had it), but there are some little niggles I want to improve. For one, I need to replace both the clutch and brake levers, do I just want OEM replacements, or are there better options? Second, my hands have been truly freezing no matter which gloves I go with. I was planning on buying heated grips, and I'm now thinking of getting handguards too. Any advice as to which of those to look at?

    Thanks
    Adi
  17. Canuman

    Canuman Crusty & Unobliging

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    The Parts Unlimited levers are cheap and work. For the cost of OEM, you can get several sets and keep some spares. About $14/ea, last time I bought them. Sunlines are good also.

    We've installed several of the Moose Racing heated grip kits, and they work very well. You can fry bacon on them on high. They are almost too hot. A kit that allows you to use any grip is a boon, in my opinion. I'd avoid ones that come with a proprietary grips. While you are at it, buy a set of grips. If yours are OEM, there is a chance in hell of re-using them. Renthal dual-compound grips are fantastic.

    I use the Western Power Sports guards on my bike, and have been pleased. They come all-in-one with guards, shields, and a mounting kit. Buy a tube of Loctite and use it! These are not take-no-prisoners guards, but are full loop and a decent value for the money. If you are hardcore and like to plow rocky soil with your bars, there are other options out there.
  18. Mala Suerte

    Mala Suerte Been here awhile

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    I'm roughly the same build as you and my KLR has some lowering links, regular seat and I am just about flat footed while stopped. No problem w/ work or cowboy boots on.


    Guess I should say, since this is my first post. :wave I've been lurking for about a year and finally couldn't resist and bought a bike. I rode a lot when I was younger and just getting back into things.

    Picked up a '96 KLR650 about a month ago. Put 8 miles on it before it started knocking. Tore it down and finally, luckily, found that the timing chain jumped a tooth. Previous owner forgot to put both bearings under one of the starting gears, which caused one of the washers to wear, break and float around the side of the engine before it landed in btwn the timing chain and gear, causing the chain to skip a tooth - I had valve to piston contact.

    Now I'm having trouble getting stock rings w/o having to buy a piston - evidently the rings have been discontinued and replaced w/ a ring that won't fit the stock piston. I may just have to go w/ either the 685 or 688 kit.
  19. Gundy

    Gundy Been here awhile

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    I have been running Shinko 244s. Very cheap and a good match for the KLR capabilities. Smooth on the road, great on gravel and dry dirt, adequate in sand and scary in mud. They last very well as long as you keep the psi over 25. Under that and you will likely chunk them on the pavement.

    Trying T63s next just to see if I can give the bike some better offroad manners.
  20. willys

    willys Long timer

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    Yes the best route is the 685 kit and new valves obviously, but if you are buying valves anyway, why not get the larger ones at the same time? Sounds like you can do your own labour so the cost will stay low...another good thing.
    Shnitz Racing is the place to get your parts from. Make sure your DOO has been changed out also and maybe get the torsion spring as well....?
    Good luck and let us know how it went.:freaky