KLX250S electrical issue

Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by Neckrom, Jun 6, 2013.

  1. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    My bike was running fine on a dual sport ride this past weekend but then about half way through I had no battery power. I could bump start the bike but that was it. I got it home and pulled all the leads from the battery and put a battery tender on it. The tender ran for a bit and said it was charged. I put the leads back on and turned the key and nothing. No lights, no starter, nothin. So i am digging around and looking at all the fuses and connections and I dont see any problems. So I decide it must be that the battery is bad and the battery tender is lying. Wrong! I decide to run some jumper cables from my other bike that has a great battery. I hook up the cables and turn the key on the KLX and nothing! I unhook the cables and turn the key on the VERSYS. Now the Versys battery is almost completley dead. WTF. this was all of 3 minutes and it completley drained the battery. I am at a loss. What kind of a short or part going bad would drain a battery that quick? Is it the rectifyer? Something else? I am hoping someone can help me. I am not very virsed in motorcycle / car electrical systems other then the basics. I have a multi meter but may need detailed instruction if you want me to use it to test something. I usualy just use it for continuity tests.

    06 KLX250S. I have put the 351 kit and pumper carb on it. I am ok with the mechanical stuff but really need to get better at electrical.
    #1
  2. strongbad

    strongbad Been here awhile

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    A shorted rectifier/regulator module would produce those symptoms. Disconnect it, recharge your Versys battery, and see if it will power your KLX again.
    #2
  3. Sniper X

    Sniper X De Oppresso Liber

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    I had a similar problem with both my DR350, and the GSXR 750. It was a small relay that was for the ignition. It was a little black box under the side panel. I'll bet IF it isn't the rectifire regulator, that it is the relay and they are probably the same location on the KLX. I seem to remember it was a starter relay.
    #3
  4. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    rectifier unplugged and everything is working again. I ordered a new one. We will see if that is the prob when its all back together and its working under its own power.
    #4
  5. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    oh and this killed my batt on the KLX. Since I am in the market for a battery. Anyone have a suggestion. This is pretty much a woods bike so I am wondering about a lighter battery then stock or just stick with a stock battery?
    #5
  6. rwamf

    rwamf Follow me

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    [​IMG]
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  7. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    a kick is also on the list. ;-p for emergencies but a push start sure beats all when your already sucking wind. At some point I may convert strictly to kick for weight purposes.
    #7
  8. rwamf

    rwamf Follow me

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    I would not get rid of the Magic Button, no way, but the backup kick is nice to have, I got mine from parting out a KLX300.
    #8
  9. TNC

    TNC Candyass Camper

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    Funny thing about electric starters on bikes. All my off road bikes from the early 70's on had kickstarters. So when I got my new '85 KLR600 that had kickstart and e-start, I was quite pleased. When I bought an '88 KLR650 that had no kickstart, I was nervous. I yanked the kicker out of the '85 and installed it in the '88. After many years and 4 KLR600/650's, I never had to use the kicker. Since getting my '06 KLX, I've never had the e-start or battery fail to do its job. I've found that if you give as much attention and care to your battery as you do your oil level and oil selection, you don't seem to have an issue. I ride in remote areas all over the western U.S. by myself on my bikes. While a starter or battery failure can occur, it seems the odds are pretty low. Worst case for me will be a push start, and the KLX is at least light enough to push up most hills to get a push start even if you're in a low spot. Keep the battery charged, and don't try to milk every last ounce of spark out of an old battery and you should be good to go. I think a kickstart transplant costs about $300-$400 in parts if you do it yourself...if you use new parts. You can buy a lot of fresh batteries with that.:lol3
    #9
  10. KamLeeR

    KamLeeR Animal Adventurer

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    Buy a Shorai lithium battery! Like 70% lighter than stock, no acid or water to contend with, will last a year without charging, and its got a 3 year warranty! Perfect!
    #10
  11. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    it looks like the rectifier was the problem. New rec installed and everything seems to be working good again. I am going to take it for an extended ride tomorrow so hopefully my electrical probe are behind me. I ended up getting the shorai and saved 5 lbs. I have not had a chance to put the battery through the ropes but we will see tomorrow. I got a great price on it so i went for it. The whole process got me thinking about my use for the bike. I use it for mostly offroad maybe a few miles of street. I decided to start the bike on a diet. So far I have removed 10lbs of items I just don't need and I have more to go. I have removed things before and didn't weigh them so I am sure my weight savings are even higher. Nothing has been done that can't be undone at a later date if I so choose. I am thinking about a headlight swap to get rid of the heavy light and metal bracket combo. I had a trailtech x2 on a different bike but it did not seam to put out enough light and the halogen popped in it 2 times in verry short amount if time.

    Any other suggestions for headlights with good candle power that are reliable. I am hoping not to break the bank but if I need to so be it. All suggestions welcome.
    #11
  12. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    So I went for a good ride last weekend with my 2009 KLX250s and all was well until we went out on our last run of the day and the speedometer starts blinking on and off as I was riding and when I came to a resting place the battery was dead! I had charged it that morning and it is a new battery. So after I bump started it the bike worked OK but no power lights led nothing. I took it home and cleaned it up and started jiggling the the cable to the speedometer and it lit up so I figured it was OK. Then Tuesday I went to check it and it had been on a trickle charge and the bike was dead no power nothing. I purchased a new rectifier and installed it this afternoon and it did nothing. When I turn the key to the on position my charger changes from green to blinking red and then when I turn the key to off the charger glows red for a few seconds and then glows solid green for being fully charged. All fuses look OK.
    Where should I start?

    See it fail
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggOxLo4DC7s&list=UUOcs7G7Eve2_G2S71rpeKrA

    Ohenry
    #12
  13. Neckrom

    Neckrom What was that!

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    sorry. I am not an electrical guy. That's why I posted here. I will say when I bump started my KLX everything worked fine. No light issues or anything. When the rectifier failed it ruined the battery. It would almost instantly drain a fully charged battery. I had to replace the battery too. To test it after I replaced the rectifier I jumped off of another bike and it didn't drain the battery. It might be the battery for you too but your symptoms sound like a short.
    #13
  14. Beezer

    Beezer Long timer

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    definitely a short. the reason it runs with a bump start is the ignition is totally independent from the rest of the electrical.

    if the fuse is good, then the short is either in the main wire before the fuse (and the fault does not load the fuse), or it's not in the fused line.

    that only leaves what ever is between the battery and the regulator, or the regulator itself.... or:

    I can't find a diagram to check, but there may be other wires.... like possibly the cooling fan circuit... anything that connects to the battery that is not in the main fuse

    the stator only connects to the system through the regulator, and because the bike runs, it's not that. (the stator generator section could act as a load, but only if the regulator is failed) (rectifier actually)

    if the fault is not obvious, you can connect a turn signal flasher or light bulb in between the battery plus lead and the main wires... that will limit current flow while you troubleshoot. a light is nice... when you move the wires around it will flash when the short is made. by flexing wire bundles you can isolate the problem
    #14
  15. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    Thanks for the help!
    I had left the bike an a charger since yesterday and when I got home and turned the key the headlight turned on! I was like OK this battery is toast. I connected the jumper cables and did not start my truck, I just let the trucks battery charge the bikes. After 20 minutes the speedo showed up and the bike kicked over! Yes!
    But the instrument panel and speedo where blinking on and off again while it was running! OH NO! So I went to Advanced Auto and got a 7 amp hour from them for $40 and it came with a three month warranty which I figured would help if the battery died again. Connected it up and it now working perfectly! Yes! $40 for the battery and $40 for the rectifier and we are good to go! I will keep an eye on it but I am going riding tomorrow!

    Ohenry
    #15
  16. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    Hello again and Happy Easter!
    Guess what? I took a ride today and the instrument cluster started to blink again! I left it on a trickle charge since its perfect performance on my last ride. It started right up, I went to fill it up with gas, and when I was on my way back it started blinking and I had to use my buddies car to jump it. With the running the volts at the battery are 11.8 but when I gave it gas it went down to 8 volts and the instrument cluster started blink again until I left it idle then if it was a high idle it would start loosing power again. I had on WOT and it would go completely blank. Now my battery is dead but I am charging it but I think it is a goner.
    Any ideas?

    Ohenry
    #16
  17. 1994klr250

    1994klr250 Been here awhile

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    Have you checked the stator?
    #17
  18. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    I will tomorrow

    Advance Auto ran out of replacement batteries

    Ohenry
    #18
  19. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    OK new battery
    No key 12.79
    Key on 12.15
    Motor idle 13.8
    Motor @ 4000 rpm 13.8
    I did a ride and gave it the berries and came back and it tested @ 13.8 at idle. Then I put it on a charge and it tested @ 13.3 and falling @ the battery no key. After an hour it was @ 13

    The only thing I did in between rides was pressure wash it. Do you think the battery got wet?

    Ohenry
    #19
  20. ohenry

    ohenry Been here awhile

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    Well it is not the water! It only happens while on or after a long ride. I rode it 45 miles yesterday with no problems. Then we I stopped to survey the trail and it was dead when I tried to start it! So a few years ago I was riding my 2008 FZ6 when I still had it and I was headed home the temperature was 100 degrees and it died no power no motor nothing! I pushed it off the street and was poking around and I found a pebble in the cooling fan. I dislodged it and called a buddy who helped me home. That pebble froze the fan and took out the battery. I am thinking maybe seeing as it only happens when hot that my fan is pulling too much power draining the battery? I understand that the KLX has a spinning fan but maybe?

    Can anyone verify if you have no battery and you bump start your bike does the speed LCD come on? All I get is a blinker light?

    Thanks,

    Ohenry
    #20