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Discussion in 'Thumpers' started by ironbrewer, Jun 28, 2008.
Never mind on that previous post - float height.
I have a TM36-68 enroute.
I am looking for new tires for my 2003 KLX. I ride in the desert around Las Cruces, Nuevo Mexico. It is a lot of hard, rocky riding. I want tires that can withstand the rocks and not get torn up in a few miles. Sorry if this has already been addressed, I did not do a search. I appreciate hearing about your recommendations and experiences. Thanks!
Kenda Parker Desert or Maxxis Desert IT. I think the Parker front tire may be one of the best desert tires I've tried. It's the most resistant to side knob ripping that I've used.
Thanks, TNC! I will get some NEW TIRES.
For the 2003 KLX300 - I think the front tire size is 80/90-21, is this correct? I find a limited choice of tires in the 80/90-21 size, but more tires in the 90/90-21 size. How critical is the size? Does it matter that much? I do not know. Also, the rear tire is 100/100-18, right? I find a good number of tire choices in this size. Thanks for any help!
Its not critical
Then, it looks like I have lots of good choices. Thanks, Yokomo!
Ditto..not an issue.
Found some tires at Chaparral in the right sizes.
I'm a new owner for a 2001 KLX300. After riding on some rough stuff this weekend, I hear a whirring noise coming from the engine. Looking down, I noticed the kick starter was stuck behind the aluminum guard that protects the brake hose (going from the brake reservoir to the master cylinder). I was able to get the kick starter unstuck, but during the day it got stuck 2 or 3 more times. I got a bit paranoid and was looking down periodically, but never figured out how it gets stuck.
Looking at some photos on the web, I noticed on my bike the wire tab that is suppose to keep the kick starter in place has been broken off. I've also read this can cause major damage to the transmission, so I'd like to find some way to prevent this. Any ideas? Maybe a Works Connection frame guard will prevent the kick starter getting stuck?
Mine has done that before while trying to start but never while riding. I don't know, but I would think you have a broken spring that keeps enough tension on the kicker to keep it from going backwards.
Hi guys and dolls, does anyone here have a stock muffler off of their klx300 that they would like to sale? Thanks just let me know
Desert ride on a Sunday morning with my son. There are hundreds of miles of trails, don't think I could ever ride them all:
How smooth and viby is the 300 on the highway?
I'm looking to buy and DS one. I currently ride a KDX 220 (same bike as KLX except 2-stroke). I find the KDX to be too much vibration, even at low speed. Cruising at 45 MPH was all I could bear. But the bike is very powerful; it can probably do 80 MPH. But anything over 45 is too viby and too loud (even with stock muffler) for a normal person to bear for extended time.
Mustang - I've owned and ridden both on and offroad.
The KDX is better offroad although not much . I believe I get the KLX's power to the ground more effectively but it's a bit heavier. Pick your poison....
The KLX is much smoother onroad. Mine will do 85-90 mph with taller gearing. Now I own a dualsported KLX250S and KLX300R. The 250 is going up for sale soon. It's 25 pounds heavier and 5-6 ponies less. Only drawback is the kickstart only on the 300R. Good news - the 2004s and newer are super easy to kick anyway. I can and have started it by hand several times.
I had a hard time riidng the KDX without keeping it "on the pipe". 2T's have that effect on me. The 300R is super easy to ride slow and unlike the KDX, doesn't mind being wound.
BTW, my 220 was Ron Black'd to the max and was a real monster.
Hope that helps.
What makes the pre-04s difficult to start? I just got a '98. And it is a ?#$&*! to start.
Something about the cam being off 180 degrees or something.
My 98 kicks nice and firm/hard, but it fires right up when you set it to TDC.
some kawasaki's did and may still use what is called KACR - for automatic compression release. I think KLR's still use this too.
at 0 to very low rpm's - prob less than 1000 or so - the mechanism holds one of the exhaust valves open acting as a compression release. once the motor starts and rpm's increase the mechanism allows the exhaust valve to close all the way and the engine runs normally at full compression.
this is why klx's start so easy with a soft kick and why you don't feel much resistance or kick back at any point on the crankshaft start cycle.
My 300R has the billet straight endcap seen on ebay for $35 for the stock muffler. Anyone have the billet turndown but would like to trade? Mine's in great condition - just looking for a change.
Here's a vid of my KLX300 going thru a little enduro practice track.